When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I never realized how different the earlier gauges looked. (oil level, digital speed, odometer)
I thought it was just the top speed on the speedometer, but there's more to it.
I can't believe I hadn't noticed the difference before now.
I'm not sure if you care, but since you're in a cold/road salt laden are I thought I'd mention a little knowledge I learned the hard way. As I've noted on your photo below (area circled in yellow). Pop these plastic corner pieces off and take a look at the steel underneath. I had some serious rot under there that took quite a bit of work to remedy. If you're interested, this a link to my thread where I documented what I had to do... https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...w-project.html
Good information. And yes - I care. I want this car to last forever. It's really painful to look at the car in the current state. Tomorrow's high is going to be -1F. I can't rinse off the salt and grime until things warm up some.
I'll definitely have a look in that area. Though I expect it to be clean. The car spent most of its life in California, then a couple of years in Washington state. It didn't make it to Michigan until 2014. I believe the previous owner used it in winter, but when the roads were clear. I'll be the one taking the life out of it....
Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 01-29-2019 at 02:34 PM.
Yeah, I definitely need to add some soon.
I have the LN 2qt deep sump, so it's not really critical.
I was more worried about my voltage meter.
But I turned on the lights to take the picture in the dark garage.
The car sat a little longer due to our having the flu in our house.
My only trips recently have been to the grocery store...and I took the mini-van.
I'm looking into buying one. Do not have one, yet. Last night, I figured I should run my "borescope" into a few plug holes and see if anything looks odd. We'll have to see how that goes.
Hoping to get a bunch of parts delivered tomorrow. Just received one engine mount, an alternator and three gallons of anti-freeze.
Messed with a D90 to see if it would fit. Might need a little self-clearancing... ... or maybe some spacers. I think I grabbed a rear. It has a 225/50 on it. I believe the fronts are 205s. The rear fit well on the rear. There was a little contact in front. A front wheel might be worse. If I can resolve this, it will be good for gaining a little ground clearance and fitting winter tires.
Took care of a very important issue. Pulled the center of the dash apart. Not having a properly functioning DVD player is right up there with running out of gas.
Followed the light green wire to a cleverly hidden switch... *
Winning.
* It turns out the switch is (just) visible in the second photo in post #20 of this thread. Photographic evidence is a wonderful thing...
Last edited by Scott at Team Harco; 01-30-2019 at 02:32 PM.
While I was tearing things apart, I started on the ignition switch replacement. Pulled out the vent cover and some of the plumbing. Can see the switch, but it's going to be a pain to get at the set screws. Found something strange when pulling the outer cover from the lock cylinder. It was wrapped in a coiled wire (see the yellow wire). Have not been able to trace it, and can't image what its function would be. Any ideas?
Might be an aftermarket trigger wire to signal ignition “on” to a relay or other accessory. What is the color code on the wire it is attached to on the switch end?
Might be an aftermarket trigger wire to signal ignition “on” to a relay or other accessory. What is the color code on the wire it is attached to on the switch end?
I don't know that it is attached to the switch at all. It was wrapped around the rubber cover - at first I thought is was to hold the cover in place. And that may actually be its purpose. I'll try to find where it leads. There's not a whole lot of room to look around in there...
It’s the antenna for the mind control device that puts subliminal message mantras in your head that all 996 failure modes are over exaggerated.
it goes something like this:
“ I will not have:
1. Oil starvation and damage due to snapped oil pump drive key
2. D-chunk failure
3. Broken crankshaft due to lightweight flywheel
4. Rod bolt failure
5. Timing/cam chain stretching/link breakage
6. Intermediate shaft bearing failure
7. Oil starvation due to pickup tube blockage
8. Oil starvation due to extended high-G turns
9. Water pump failure
10. Head cracks due to poor quality castings
11. Hydrolock due to failed AOS
12. IMS sprocket separating from IMS
13. Debris from worn chain tensioner pads
14. Cylinder scoring/ovaling
15. Intermix
or any other potential modes, real or imagined”
����
I thought I was hearing things...
"shoulda bought a tip"
"shoulda bought rear drive"
"shouldn't have gotten the litronic headlights"
"shouldn't have bought a year with the single row IMS bearing"
"shouldn't have got the headlight washers"
"shouldn't have got leather interior"
Actually, recently I also found 2 obviously aftermarket switches in my car that I have no idea what they do. I’ve played with them both while driving and also in the garage. The blue one is done near the dead pedal and the red one is on the gas pedal side.
I’ll investigate sometime this spring, but I think someone is trying to influence my voting preferences. I did buy the car from a Russian guy. When I picked up the car he was riding a horse without his shirt on...
01-29-2019, 01:22 PM
... or maybe some spacers. I think I grabbed a rear. It has a 225/50 on it. I believe the fronts are 205s. The rear fit well on the rear. There was a little contact in front. A front wheel might be worse. If I can resolve this, it will be good for gaining a little ground clearance and fitting winter tires.
