Engine start issue
#18
Excellent suggestion and in fact I was gonna suggest the same but saw the OP already removed the starter.
If you jump start at the cable lug (right above the a/c compressor) and the engine fires up, you need to check the positive battery cable at the battery post. That short cable connects to the power distribution and the nut could have come loose.
Just follow that cable from the trunk to the firewall.
If you jump start at the cable lug (right above the a/c compressor) and the engine fires up, you need to check the positive battery cable at the battery post. That short cable connects to the power distribution and the nut could have come loose.
Just follow that cable from the trunk to the firewall.
#19
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
So got a replacement starter, tested it before putting it in.( All good)
Now same thing, soloniod sounds like it throws out but no crank?
battery volts good drop test good
Earth good
Relays good
Fuses good
ignition switch switches relays therefore good.
engine turns by hand and flywheel moves.
Anyone?
Now same thing, soloniod sounds like it throws out but no crank?
battery volts good drop test good
Earth good
Relays good
Fuses good
ignition switch switches relays therefore good.
engine turns by hand and flywheel moves.
Anyone?
Which earth did you check?
Make certain that the engine earth is good.
Also, double check the battery cables.
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
It's definitely not enough amps or a short but the CCA of the battery is fine
Just had it tested as I was doubting my own tester.
Its 800cca Bosch S5
#22
You can do a voltage drop test on each segment between the battery post and the starter +ve post to pinpoint the problematic segment.
Last edited by Ahsai; 01-11-2019 at 05:41 PM.
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
But tomorrow I'll start at the starter and work backwards,
I'll have to get my daughter to be my little helper.
Thanks to everyone so far much appreciated.
#25
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There are two connectors on the starter solenoid. One is the main battery cable connection that should be "hot" all the time, and is the main supply of battery amps. The other connector is 12V that is supplied by the ignition switch to kick the starter solenoid in so the main battery connection is supplying the main amps to turn the starter over.
#26
That would indicate the solenoid is not closing the contacts -I am assuming that this is with the key in start position .Take the solenoid apart and check the contacts ?What is the voltage measured at the cable ?
#27
Racer
Thread Starter
Soloniod is fine I've tried it on the bench and I have a second starter too.
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
Well I know it don't really help but after lots of pulling twisting and tightnitig it now Turns over.
so it was a ground or a live somewhere but I'm buggered if I can tell you where apart from somewhere between the battery and the car lol.
Thanks a million for your patience guys
Now let's burn some rubber!
Going to tighten the whole car to 150ftlbs now too
so it was a ground or a live somewhere but I'm buggered if I can tell you where apart from somewhere between the battery and the car lol.
Thanks a million for your patience guys
Now let's burn some rubber!
Going to tighten the whole car to 150ftlbs now too