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Old 12-14-2018, 11:51 AM
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parris
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Originally Posted by JoeyCapranica
Thanks all! It was not a straight trade. I didn’t get a great deal nor did I get a bad deal. Having spent a little time in the car business, I knew what to expect (I paid $14.02 more than I’d planned).

I do plan to install an exhaust (Tubi, in particular), Öhlins R&T, 245/35 front tires, and 15mm spacers all around for an effective offset that is almost the same as the 6.2 GT3. I’ll drive it for a few months first, though, and get a really good feel for how it was delievered new. With these miles, it’s like getting in a time machine every time I drive it and I’d like to have that experience for a while longer. I would like to do a 4 liter build eventually as well, but that will be years down the road.

As for the IMS: I have done a lot of reading on the topic and have decided that the IMSB does not need any attention at the moment. I understand the concern about low mileage and I am a little worried, but I’m going to operate under the assumption that my car is part of the 92% of these things that is just fine. At some point in the relatively near future, however, I do plan on dropping the oil pan and making sure I’ve made the right choice. If I get in there and find evidence the IMSB is failing, then I guess the 4 liter build will just have to be placed higher on the priority list. Heaven forbid (I say sarcastically).

Manual or Tip: I’ll preface this by saying that my E92 M3 was equipped with the DCT and I would never have even considered buying that car with the manual. The E39 M5 sourced manual trans in that car feels atrocious; if the whole point of the manual in this modern age of dual clutch transmissions is to increase driver involvement, shouldn’t that involvement be pleasant? Shifting an E9x M with a manual is anything but pleasant in my opinion. The F8x, on the other hand, has a lovely manual transmission. All that said, I could not have lived with the Tiptronic. PDK? All damn day, especially over the 7-speed manual. Tip? I need my transmission to be in the gear I want it to be in a lot faster than the Tiptronic will ever be able to accommodate. I plan to do a shifter and cable kit to tighten up the feel a bit more, but right out of the box this manual is pretty fantastic. Not the best I’ve ever driven, but pretty good.

Thr biggest problem I have with the car right now is a little dash rattle. It stops when I put my hand pretty much anywhere on the dash, so locating it will be difficult. If there are normal rattle spots y’all know about, I’m all ears.

edit* I feel it’s worth mentioning that I am very mechanically capable. I’ve done everything from lube tech at a Honda dealership to helicopter maintenance on two different airframes in the Army. If I have to, I should be plenty capable of addressing any IMS issues which may present themselves. These cars aren’t that hard to work on, especially now that there is so much documented on that topic. I’m in the camp that thinks the IMSB is blown way out of proportion. I got my M3 in March of ‘15 with 24k miles and traded it with 78k last Tuesday. I never replaced the rod bearings and it didn’t grenade on me as much as that community was convinced it probably would. The Internet forum has a tendency to blow things a bit out of proportion.
I am glad to see that someone so knowledgeable has kind of same opinion than me

Congrats for your purchase
Old 12-14-2018, 11:57 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dporto
"There is no amount of worrying or relatively inexpensive preventative fixes that will prevent the IMSB from grenading. If the qualification process for the installation of parts which were designed to remove the risk of IMSB failure show that there is no IMSB failure imminent, then there is no way to prove those parts’ actual effectiveness in preventing IMSB failure. The ONLY way to really ensure an M96.03 like the one in my car is almost definitely not going to have IMSB issues is to disassemble the engine and rebuild it while replacing all the parts which are known causes of catastrophic failure.

Not a single product on the market will prevent an IMSB failure. You can all tell yourselves those products help; to say so shows me you don’t know what you’re talking about or you’re trying to sell me something or both.

If it puts minds at ease, I am a fan of the IMS Solution and will be installing one eventually. When it’s installed will depend on what I find when I drop the sump plate and cut open the filter. I’m hoping it’s not for many years."


^^ Lots of circular logic going on here...So you're going to wait until you find debris in the sump before you change the IMS bearing? Makes zero sense. The IMS Solution WILL prevent bearing failure - period (plain bearings in these motors just don't fail...and yes, you've got to install it in a healthy engine). Unfortunately, "The Solution" doesn't address any of the other 26 modes of failure inherent to the M96. You can hope all you want, that won't change how the engine wears - especially when you're running it up to 6500 rpm so you can feel all that extra power from the X-pipe. Frequent oil changes (4000mi.) with a high quality oil is your best insurance against engine problems. Good luck with 'er, and do keep us appraised of any future upgrades/issues.
I know that this is the eternal debate

However, I have to said, that I have realized that US 996 owners are, by far, the most paranoic with the IMS failure that I have ever read. I am from Europe, and, although the IMS failure is something that everybody agree can happen in these cars... is also assumed that is the exception, while here, it seems to be the rule: you have to do the IMS because it will fail yes or yes...

It is on everybody option. And probably I will also end doing some IMS upgrade. But what I dont understand is that approach that you guys have here where it seems that every car is going to explode when they are actually quite bulletproof cars...
Old 12-14-2018, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by parris
I know that this is the eternal debate

However, I have to said, that I have realized that US 996 owners are, by far, the most paranoic with the IMS failure that I have ever read. I am from Europe, and, although the IMS failure is something that everybody agree can happen in these cars... is also assumed that is the exception, while here, it seems to be the rule: you have to do the IMS because it will fail yes or yes...

It is on everybody option. And probably I will also end doing some IMS upgrade. But what I dont understand is that approach that you guys have here where it seems that every car is going to explode when they are actually quite bulletproof cars...

If you're already invested in the IMSB fix, there is no other rational approach. It is we who are paranoid. /X3
Old 01-02-2019, 08:28 AM
  #34  
JoeyCapranica
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Before and after paint correction


Before and after springs


​​​​​​​
Old 01-02-2019, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeyCapranica
Before and after paint correction


Before and after springs



​​​​​​​What did you use for the paint correction?
Old 01-02-2019, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Horsepwr
What did you use for the paint correction?
Washed with Dawn soap; Meguiars clay bar; Rupes LHR15 with Meguiars red foam pad & 105, yellow foam pad & 205.
Old 01-02-2019, 10:10 PM
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JoeyCapranica
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Pictures




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Old 01-02-2019, 10:21 PM
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Stunning, very tasteful improvements!
Old 01-02-2019, 11:57 PM
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JoeyCapranica
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Originally Posted by Ratchet1025
Stunning, very tasteful improvements!
Thanks!
More pictures





Old 01-03-2019, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeyCapranica
Here’s the build sheet

​​​​​
Where did you get that build sheet? I would like to get the same for the car I am purchasing, but am struggling to find one. VIN Analytics doesn't come up with one. I ordered a buildsheet through Suncoast, but I can't really make heads or tails of the equipment list.
Old 01-03-2019, 06:39 PM
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Kind of a bummer- I’ve been trying to get the car squared away so I can just drive/enjoy and maintain it for a couple years (or until I’m able to build it the way I really want to); the paint needed correcting, the leather needed conditioning, the oil needed changing, engine and cabin air filters needed replacing, ride height needed adjustment which led to alignment adjustments, wheels needed spacing for proper fitment, and the exhaust and shifter still need attention to get the car where I want it.

There has been a vibration/shake in the steering wheel, but I don’t remember it being there when I drove the car home from the dealership from which it was purchased (it was an hour+ drive, so I would’ve noticed it). I’m pretty sure I remember feeling it since installing the spacers, but I’m not positive.

Because I installed lowering springs, I took the car in for an alignment and got a balance at the same time thinking the balance would take care of the shake in the steering wheel. It helped, but it turned out I had a bent wheel in the rear. So, this morning I got the wheel straightened and took it back to Porsche to rebalance that wheel. I was so excited to finally get the car to a point where nothing bothers me about it to look at or drive it - to a point where, even if it isn’t how I’d want it in my wildest fantasies, it’s practically 99% of the way there (that last 1% isn’t necessary, it costs more than everything included in that 99%, but would be totally worth it if I had the means).

Well, I got it back from Porsche and there’s still a vibration and the wheel still shakes. I’m pretty sure the problem is the spacers, but I don’t have the stock lug bolts with me. So I’ll have to take them off when I get back to where they are. It’s kind of a double edge sword cause I’m hoping the spacers are the issue, but then I’ll have to either get different spacers or wheels with proper fitment. The GT3 fitment is perfect to me, but the Turbo II is my favorite wheel design on a 996 and GT3 wheels don’t look right to me without the Aerokit bumpers and skirts.

The thing is, if it’s not the spacers, whatever it is will be pricey: it could be tires or, in a worst case scenario, a bent hub (or something equally awful). If it ends up being the spacers, I’ll be sure to let everyone know how the brand from which I purchased them handles it. If it’s not the spacers...wish me luck.
Old 01-03-2019, 07:04 PM
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Default Good luck!

Well, you wanted us to wish you good luck, so...

Of course, there are many variables, but for my car, I needed new tires to get rid of my vibration at 70mph. Also, my car is VERY sensitive to tire pressure and balance.
Old 01-03-2019, 09:39 PM
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JoeyCapranica
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Originally Posted by Ratchet1025
Well, you wanted us to wish you good luck, so...

Of course, there are many variables, but for my car, I needed new tires to get rid of my vibration at 70mph. Also, my car is VERY sensitive to tire pressure and balance.
It came with Continentals on it, so I very well may be in that same boat. 70mph is where it’s worst, but it’s also intermittent. I’d actually be really happy if the tires are the problem, even though it would mean I’d have to suffer through it until they wear out becaue I won’t replace them until then. Which tires did you have when you had your vibration and which ones went on when the problem was resolved?

Last edited by JoeyCapranica; 01-03-2019 at 11:32 PM.
Old 01-04-2019, 10:38 AM
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Joey, what size rear tires are you running ?
Old 01-04-2019, 10:44 AM
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First of all, love the color and congratulations. Second, when the tires were balanced, were they roadforce checked? Roadforce is essentially how round the tire is. You can get a tire shaped like an egg to balance out, but it will still cause a vibration. Since you mention the steering wheel shaking, I think you can effectively rule out anything from the rear causing it. Since you mentioned it happening after installing spacers, I would double check that first and foremost. Make sure both the hub surface and the wheel are perfectly clean. It doesn't take much rust to cause an issue. Also, make sure the center of the spacer fits tight to the center of the wheel. If not, you will need to get hubcentric rings to create a tight fit. Your wheels are designed to center themselves with the small ring that protrudes from the center of the hub, they are not designed to center with the lug bolts.


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