Doing clutch, not touching IMS
#46
Three Wheelin'
Even if those OEM bearings that made it to high mileage were actually manufactured better than the bearings that failed, all bearings are a wear item and all of the original bearings are getting long in the tooth both in terms of age and mileage.
#47
Then there are the 'aftermarket' parts that really did zero homework but just shipped overpriced boxes, like FVD Brombacher who ship 600$ kits with a wrongly spec'd bearing (wrong sealing) that actually accelerate the original failure path.
Regarding 'cheap knockoffs', an OEM quality dual-row wouldn't cost more than 80$ - yes you read that right. That's a top-spec bearing from one of the big reputable bearing-manufacturers, that spec it to the same standards as Porsche did with the original ones. If you want to shell out more, you could even get some with improvements over OEM by ordering Viton seals - really, the seals were the only weakness of the OEM bearings.
They're not expensive parts and there's little rocket-science left, all big manufacturers (SKF, SMT, ***) know very well what they're doing. But they're sold to Porsche owners, so they can be sold expensive.
#48
I changed mine when I did the clutch and flywheel . My car was ten years old , only had 35k miles on it and I had receipts showing the oil had been changed in May and October every year
I went in because there was an issue with the dm flywheel . I changed the clutch because I was in there
a clutch change covers 80% of the cost of an ims bearing change because it’s the same labour .
The extra labour to do the ims when you are in that far is minor . Took me two hours more , a pro who isn’t doing it for the first time should take less
a new pelican Oem style bearing which will reset the clock and easily outlast the clutch is 200 bucks . The l&n options start at 800 and there are roller bearing options in between . Not doing it while you are in there is false economy . I didn’t stretch to the solution but if I had a freshly rebuilt motor with nikkkies etc I would go that way .
i chose the l& n bearing because it also upgrades the stud , which is the second point of failure in the ims after the bearing and races . The oem one has a thinner section that also can fail . The pelican one also upgrades the center stud but reuses the oem flange . The L&n one comes with an upgraded flange and seal
I went in because there was an issue with the dm flywheel . I changed the clutch because I was in there
a clutch change covers 80% of the cost of an ims bearing change because it’s the same labour .
The extra labour to do the ims when you are in that far is minor . Took me two hours more , a pro who isn’t doing it for the first time should take less
a new pelican Oem style bearing which will reset the clock and easily outlast the clutch is 200 bucks . The l&n options start at 800 and there are roller bearing options in between . Not doing it while you are in there is false economy . I didn’t stretch to the solution but if I had a freshly rebuilt motor with nikkkies etc I would go that way .
i chose the l& n bearing because it also upgrades the stud , which is the second point of failure in the ims after the bearing and races . The oem one has a thinner section that also can fail . The pelican one also upgrades the center stud but reuses the oem flange . The L&n one comes with an upgraded flange and seal
Last edited by Vancouver996; 11-20-2018 at 02:07 AM.
#49
Three Wheelin'
Well, I'd argue that even some of those bearing-replacement 'solutions' while more robust, carry an additional risk as they run un-sealed and are prone to total failure when *any* debris shows up in the oil. So any other wear-item going in the slightest and creating light metallic debris, would make these bearings almost certainly fail and with that the entire engine - they sit in unfiltered oil after all. So such bearings really only last as long as the next metallic wear part in the engine and needs to be replaced when some other benign engine part goes, as the bearing manufacturer himself states you cannot ever use them in an engine that ever had debris-laden oil.
Then there are the 'aftermarket' parts that really did zero homework but just shipped overpriced boxes, like FVD Brombacher who ship 600$ kits with a wrongly spec'd bearing (wrong sealing) that actually accelerate the original failure path.
Regarding 'cheap knockoffs', an OEM quality dual-row wouldn't cost more than 80$ - yes you read that right. That's a top-spec bearing from one of the big reputable bearing-manufacturers, that spec it to the same standards as Porsche did with the original ones. If you want to shell out more, you could even get some with improvements over OEM by ordering Viton seals - really, the seals were the only weakness of the OEM bearings.
They're not expensive parts and there's little rocket-science left, all big manufacturers (SKF, SMT, ***) know very well what they're doing. But they're sold to Porsche owners, so they can be sold expensive.
Then there are the 'aftermarket' parts that really did zero homework but just shipped overpriced boxes, like FVD Brombacher who ship 600$ kits with a wrongly spec'd bearing (wrong sealing) that actually accelerate the original failure path.
Regarding 'cheap knockoffs', an OEM quality dual-row wouldn't cost more than 80$ - yes you read that right. That's a top-spec bearing from one of the big reputable bearing-manufacturers, that spec it to the same standards as Porsche did with the original ones. If you want to shell out more, you could even get some with improvements over OEM by ordering Viton seals - really, the seals were the only weakness of the OEM bearings.
They're not expensive parts and there's little rocket-science left, all big manufacturers (SKF, SMT, ***) know very well what they're doing. But they're sold to Porsche owners, so they can be sold expensive.
Good info!
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Cityfisher (08-26-2020)
#50
If the engine is throwing enough debris to accelerate an unsealed bearing failure , its haveing the same effect on every other moving part in the engine .
It shouldn't qualify for an ims bearing replacement , it's ready for a rebuild .
no little plastic bearing seal is going to save that .
It shouldn't qualify for an ims bearing replacement , it's ready for a rebuild .
no little plastic bearing seal is going to save that .
#51
I disagree, since all moving parts receive filtered oil while the bearing rests in the sump. A scavenger pump throwing metal will give debris in the sump, destroying any un-sealed IMSB while the rest of the engine remains intact - except for your pistons mauling your valves when the IMS goes, that is.. Replacing just the pump when discovering debris is a lot cheaper than replacing the entire engine as a result of the IMSB deciding to end it.
Last edited by User 63031; 11-20-2018 at 07:52 AM.
#52
Well, I'd argue that even some of those bearing-replacement 'solutions' while more robust, carry an additional risk as they run un-sealed and are prone to total failure when *any* debris shows up in the oil. So any other wear-item going in the slightest and creating light metallic debris, would make these bearings almost certainly fail and with that the entire engine - they sit in unfiltered oil after all. So such bearings really only last as long as the next metallic wear part in the engine and needs to be replaced when some other benign engine part goes, as the bearing manufacturer himself states you cannot ever use them in an engine that ever had debris-laden oil.
Then there are the 'aftermarket' parts that really did zero homework but just shipped overpriced boxes, like FVD Brombacher who ship 600$ kits with a wrongly spec'd bearing (wrong sealing) that actually accelerate the original failure path.
Regarding 'cheap knockoffs', an OEM quality dual-row wouldn't cost more than 80$ - yes you read that right. That's a top-spec bearing from one of the big reputable bearing-manufacturers, that spec it to the same standards as Porsche did with the original ones. If you want to shell out more, you could even get some with improvements over OEM by ordering Viton seals - really, the seals were the only weakness of the OEM bearings.
They're not expensive parts and there's little rocket-science left, all big manufacturers (SKF, SMT, ***) know very well what they're doing. But they're sold to Porsche owners, so they can be sold expensive.
Then there are the 'aftermarket' parts that really did zero homework but just shipped overpriced boxes, like FVD Brombacher who ship 600$ kits with a wrongly spec'd bearing (wrong sealing) that actually accelerate the original failure path.
Regarding 'cheap knockoffs', an OEM quality dual-row wouldn't cost more than 80$ - yes you read that right. That's a top-spec bearing from one of the big reputable bearing-manufacturers, that spec it to the same standards as Porsche did with the original ones. If you want to shell out more, you could even get some with improvements over OEM by ordering Viton seals - really, the seals were the only weakness of the OEM bearings.
They're not expensive parts and there's little rocket-science left, all big manufacturers (SKF, SMT, ***) know very well what they're doing. But they're sold to Porsche owners, so they can be sold expensive.
That is the line that I wanted to underline. I work for a OEM supplier, which also provides to the aftermarket. Of course, there are high quality aftermarket parts, as OEM parts. But, IMO, what is incorrect, is to assume that the OEM part, developed specifically for that application, from companies which huge R&D capabilities (I tend to believe that SKF is able to develop a bearing with the same quality than smaller aftermarket companies), mounted in the factory (with factory tools and processes)... has to fail yes or yes and is better to replace yes or yes.
#53
Rennlist Member
I think of the IMS as somewhat cheap insurance, so I did mine with the clutch. However, money is money, and I hate the risk of something else failing the engine after putting money into other areas that were not the problem. Owning this car is a balancing act between cost and risk and sometimes taking the risk is necessary. That being said, I would probably change out the single row. The engine on my 99 was replaced in 2001 resulting in my car having a single row bearing. The bearing moved great when you spun it in your hand and made no noise, BUT if you turned it very slowly you could feel that it was not 100% perfect. It definitely was not going to be a lifetime part. I would do what you are comfortable with an ignore the noise..
My tech put it best when he first met me and I was nervous about he car. "Even professional swimmers have drowned." There are so many other variables that could fail that engine, and this is the same with any car. My 08 civic had catastrophic engine failure when it was new...
My tech put it best when he first met me and I was nervous about he car. "Even professional swimmers have drowned." There are so many other variables that could fail that engine, and this is the same with any car. My 08 civic had catastrophic engine failure when it was new...
#54
That is the quid of the question for me.
That statement will be true, if we had the 100% security that the OEM bearing is going to fail. And actually that seems to be the mindset. "I have to change it for peace of mind, because sooner or later it will fail"... that means... the failure rate of these engines is 100%... Is that true?
But, do we have any technical reason to think that, changing a "healthy" OEM bearing for an aftermarket is better? or are we just messing with an engine that wont fail, introducing non OEM parts with a predefined lifetime?
Just trying to see all points of view
That statement will be true, if we had the 100% security that the OEM bearing is going to fail. And actually that seems to be the mindset. "I have to change it for peace of mind, because sooner or later it will fail"... that means... the failure rate of these engines is 100%... Is that true?
But, do we have any technical reason to think that, changing a "healthy" OEM bearing for an aftermarket is better? or are we just messing with an engine that wont fail, introducing non OEM parts with a predefined lifetime?
Just trying to see all points of view
#55
I disagree, since all moving parts receive filtered oil while the bearing rests in the sump. A scavenger pump throwing metal will give debris in the sump, destroying any un-sealed IMSB while the rest of the engine remains intact - except for your pistons mauling your valves when the IMS goes, that is.. Replacing just the pump when discovering debris is a lot cheaper than replacing the entire engine as a result of the IMSB deciding to end it.
#56
Failure rate (I think) is 5% of 996s.
Cost of repair when it fails is $15K-$20K.
What you should spend to remove the risk is 5% of $20K, or $1,000.
The cost of the new bearing (LN) and additional cost of installation should fall under $1,000.
The math says you should do it.
Cost of repair when it fails is $15K-$20K.
What you should spend to remove the risk is 5% of $20K, or $1,000.
The cost of the new bearing (LN) and additional cost of installation should fall under $1,000.
The math says you should do it.
#57
That is the quid of the question for me.
That statement will be true, if we had the 100% security that the OEM bearing is going to fail. And actually that seems to be the mindset. "I have to change it for peace of mind, because sooner or later it will fail"... that means... the failure rate of these engines is 100%... Is that true?
But, do we have any technical reason to think that, changing a "healthy" OEM bearing for an aftermarket is better? or are we just messing with an engine that wont fail, introducing non OEM parts with a predefined lifetime?
Just trying to see all points of view
That statement will be true, if we had the 100% security that the OEM bearing is going to fail. And actually that seems to be the mindset. "I have to change it for peace of mind, because sooner or later it will fail"... that means... the failure rate of these engines is 100%... Is that true?
But, do we have any technical reason to think that, changing a "healthy" OEM bearing for an aftermarket is better? or are we just messing with an engine that wont fail, introducing non OEM parts with a predefined lifetime?
Just trying to see all points of view
The automotive sector has other engineering pressures , cost etc . Cars are disposable and depreciating assets .
In our winery yesterday by coincidence , a couple pulled up in a new panamera
as I was pouring wine the fellow mentioned he was the head of Porsche technical services for western Canada ( Vancouver is the second biggest market for Porsche’s in North America after LA)
his job is to train Porsche technicians , prior to that he was in charge of quality and trouble shooting , if a dealer had a car they couldn’t fix they flew him in .
Anyway we we ended up talking about the 996
long story short
his take was
the bearing was undersized for the application
it should have had a service life designated
doubling the reccomended maintainence time from 12 to 24k miles in 2003 made the problem much worse .
He also stated that the dominant aftermarket bearings were an excellent and reliable product . He would use one himself .
he trains dealer techs how to replace the bearing as part of the Porsche classic program
#58
Instructor
That is the quid of the question for me.
That statement will be true, if we had the 100% security that the OEM bearing is going to fail. And actually that seems to be the mindset. "I have to change it for peace of mind, because sooner or later it will fail"... that means... the failure rate of these engines is 100%... Is that true?
But, do we have any technical reason to think that, changing a "healthy" OEM bearing for an aftermarket is better? or are we just messing with an engine that wont fail, introducing non OEM parts with a predefined lifetime?
Just trying to see all points of view
That statement will be true, if we had the 100% security that the OEM bearing is going to fail. And actually that seems to be the mindset. "I have to change it for peace of mind, because sooner or later it will fail"... that means... the failure rate of these engines is 100%... Is that true?
But, do we have any technical reason to think that, changing a "healthy" OEM bearing for an aftermarket is better? or are we just messing with an engine that wont fail, introducing non OEM parts with a predefined lifetime?
Just trying to see all points of view
#59
Failure rate (I think) is 5% of 996s.
Cost of repair when it fails is $15K-$20K.
What you should spend to remove the risk is 5% of $20K, or $1,000.
The cost of the new bearing (LN) and additional cost of installation should fall under $1,000.
The math says you should do it.
Cost of repair when it fails is $15K-$20K.
What you should spend to remove the risk is 5% of $20K, or $1,000.
The cost of the new bearing (LN) and additional cost of installation should fall under $1,000.
The math says you should do it.
But in the other hand is, what if you are doing one of those cars in the 95%, that would be reliable cars, less reliable because changing the oem bearing for an aftermarket solution with limited lifetime? Because, as I said, sometimes it is the impression that, the bearing will fail 100% sure but that is not the reality. The reality is that there are a lot more reliable engines than engines that will fail, and when we take the decision a factor frequently ignored is that, by changing the bearing you can be also messing with one of the 95% (or whatever number) reliable engines.
#60