Talk me down?
#46
The truth is no one knows how often the engines blow up on these cars, but the risk is real. I was in your shoes just a month ago and bought a nice 99 with 70k miles on it. No scary noises when I bought it, but within a few weeks it had developed a pinging noise at startup which turned out to be bore scoring. I’m looking at a $15k engine rebuild on a car I haven’t even received plates for yet.
Don’t forget that if you aren’t the kind of person who can install an engine yourself, you’ll have to pay someone $4-5k to install the engine you buy. So that $7k engine is a $13k project.
Don’t forget that if you aren’t the kind of person who can install an engine yourself, you’ll have to pay someone $4-5k to install the engine you buy. So that $7k engine is a $13k project.
Last edited by wsrgklt; 11-08-2018 at 10:06 PM.
#47
Sorry to hear that, man. That's brutal.
Isn't bore scoring supposed to be less common on the early engines?
It does illustrate that, to a degree, it's luck of the draw.
Hope everything works out the best it can.
Isn't bore scoring supposed to be less common on the early engines?
It does illustrate that, to a degree, it's luck of the draw.
Hope everything works out the best it can.
#49
I kept my boxster til I had a second kid. Driving my partner and two little kids in the 996 is everything you've dreamed of. As far as adults, fitting back there, I squeezed plenty of friends in the back of my 73 911. It was always a hilarious and worthy squeeze.
#50
I honestly think there is about the same space as my current car. I need the back seat for occasionally shuttling a couple of kids around town, or for tossing in a couple few cases of wine for work.
Of course, the Jag has a bigger trunk, but I have the 4runner if I need to move more stuff or people.
Of course, the Jag has a bigger trunk, but I have the 4runner if I need to move more stuff or people.
#51
I daily drive mine.
I do my own repairs.
My 996 has been more reliable and cheaper to maintain than my BMW 135i that it replaced.
I bought it September 2017.
It cost me $846 in repairs the first 12 months.
(Windshield, control arm, headlight switch)
So far I’ve spent $323 the last month and a half.
(Gbox, passenger side window regulator)
I’ve also spent several thousand dollars in mods!
Yep, these cars cost you a LOT!
At least I still have my job...but that will probably go first.
I do my own repairs.
My 996 has been more reliable and cheaper to maintain than my BMW 135i that it replaced.
I bought it September 2017.
It cost me $846 in repairs the first 12 months.
(Windshield, control arm, headlight switch)
So far I’ve spent $323 the last month and a half.
(Gbox, passenger side window regulator)
I’ve also spent several thousand dollars in mods!
Yep, these cars cost you a LOT!
At least I still have my job...but that will probably go first.
#52
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From: Rep of Texas, N NM, Rockies, SoCal
See, I like this guy!👆
I'm used to maintenance and "normal" repairs on more expensive, aging cars. I've had an 82 928, Land Rover, Mercedes, and I'm currently driving a 2001 Jaguar XK8. I'm used to the ordering expensive parts from specialists.
There aren't many jobs, short an engine rebuild I would be too afraid to take on myself.
And, if I have to break off a few grand at once at some point to keep the thing alive, although I'd feel it, I wouldn't be destitute.
$8K for a replacement engine, would cause some marital tension for sure.
I'm used to maintenance and "normal" repairs on more expensive, aging cars. I've had an 82 928, Land Rover, Mercedes, and I'm currently driving a 2001 Jaguar XK8. I'm used to the ordering expensive parts from specialists.
There aren't many jobs, short an engine rebuild I would be too afraid to take on myself.
And, if I have to break off a few grand at once at some point to keep the thing alive, although I'd feel it, I wouldn't be destitute.
$8K for a replacement engine, would cause some marital tension for sure.
If you want to get one, do your regular mx, and then do your special mx and upgrade the things you can. Live with the risk. The 996 is a bargain package of great fun. I miss it every weekend. You won't be disappointed, unless you hit the engine lotto, then you can sell it for a roller for $6k and beg the wife for a chance to sleep inside soon.
#53
Again, no one has real data on failure rates of different modes on different years. However, the standard wisdom seems to be that the early engines suffered fewer IMS failures but more frequent bore scoring and RMS issues.
#54
Doc, I remembered you from the 928 forum. I haven't spent any time on Rennlist partly because I spent way too much time on it when I had my shark.
I miss the board and the car. I had an 5 speed 16v, so I didn't have to worry about either TBF (reducing risks like the 99 model) But then, I went a little overboard and after I had all the maintenance caught up, I added a supercharger.
If I end up with a 996, I don't see too many performances mods in the future. I think I'd be happy just keeping it running.
I miss the board and the car. I had an 5 speed 16v, so I didn't have to worry about either TBF (reducing risks like the 99 model) But then, I went a little overboard and after I had all the maintenance caught up, I added a supercharger.
If I end up with a 996, I don't see too many performances mods in the future. I think I'd be happy just keeping it running.
#55
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Well sir, I don't know anything about the perf mods. Before you head down that road, drive a 996 in anger on some windy roads and see what you really need for go-fast mods. Trust me, there are plenty of things you can do to them. Chips, exhaust, M030 susp, bigger MAF, etc. All it takes is money. But - unlike the 928, when you push the go-fast pedal in the 996, and get the tach moving - you won't be disappointed.
#56
Chances are the car is going to be fine. But risk of blowing the engine is real. If that happens, you easiest way out is selling the car for $4K as roller and walking away. But test drive one and see if you find anything that comes close to the performance and feel for the money. That's the nail in the coffin, you do that and you wouldn't writing this post. It would be a hey I'm new owner post. I think you're going to go look at it despite what you read. So...
See if you can get the records and see if the necessary maintenance has been done. At this stage, there's a good chance it'll need shocks (do the bounce test), new suspension bits (listen for clunks over bumps on test drive), water pump (every 4 years), coolant tank and thermostat (look for yellowing - also look for oil in there -walk away if you do), clutch / flywheel (slipping on drive, excessive chatter beyond slight 1 st gear rattle), engine mounts (one tail pipe sagging lower), brake pads and rotors (look to see if rotor is recessed compared to the lip), AOS (smoke on cold start, but smoke can mean other things - walk away). My cats just went at 36K miles (listen for rattling on cold starts and drive it till fully warm which 20 - 30 minutes and see if you hear rattling). Check the tires - expensive!. Listen for tapping or knocking - sign of bore scoring.
Al goes well, do the PPI. The IMS pre-qualification procedure covers a lot. Probably won't be able to drop the sump or remove the transaxle, but the others should be doable.
Everything you find is negotiating item. I had a Pre-qual done in my PPI a paid at ridiculous price to do it, but I knocked more than double that off the purchase price. If the PPI comes back pristine, do NOT share it with the seller - they can use it negotiate a better deal elsewhere. If you decide not to buy it after all, ask the seller if they want to buy the PPI so you can recoup your cost.
Good luck and welcome to the club
See if you can get the records and see if the necessary maintenance has been done. At this stage, there's a good chance it'll need shocks (do the bounce test), new suspension bits (listen for clunks over bumps on test drive), water pump (every 4 years), coolant tank and thermostat (look for yellowing - also look for oil in there -walk away if you do), clutch / flywheel (slipping on drive, excessive chatter beyond slight 1 st gear rattle), engine mounts (one tail pipe sagging lower), brake pads and rotors (look to see if rotor is recessed compared to the lip), AOS (smoke on cold start, but smoke can mean other things - walk away). My cats just went at 36K miles (listen for rattling on cold starts and drive it till fully warm which 20 - 30 minutes and see if you hear rattling). Check the tires - expensive!. Listen for tapping or knocking - sign of bore scoring.
Al goes well, do the PPI. The IMS pre-qualification procedure covers a lot. Probably won't be able to drop the sump or remove the transaxle, but the others should be doable.
Everything you find is negotiating item. I had a Pre-qual done in my PPI a paid at ridiculous price to do it, but I knocked more than double that off the purchase price. If the PPI comes back pristine, do NOT share it with the seller - they can use it negotiate a better deal elsewhere. If you decide not to buy it after all, ask the seller if they want to buy the PPI so you can recoup your cost.
Good luck and welcome to the club
#57
I don't drive mine daily, but if I were to I would look at it like this.... You buy one for lets say 15k cash, now take $300/ mo and put it in a separate savings account (if you aren't disciplined enough to keep in your regular account and not spend) this will represent the monthly payment you would be making if you were to go get a Honda Accord to drive around in. This gives you $3600/year for maintenance if need be. Now this won't cover an engine failure but it will cover several other costs that may arise. Look at it this way, if it fails and the engine costs 15k you are 30k into driving a PORSCHE 911 daily instead of 30k into driving a Kia Optima. Just my two cents.
I've had dozens of cool cars over the years and this by far is the best toy to date.
I've had dozens of cool cars over the years and this by far is the best toy to date.
#58
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