wsrgklt

robot808

Sorry to hear that, man. That's brutal.
Isn't bore scoring supposed to be less common on the early engines?
It does illustrate that, to a degree, it's luck of the draw.
Hope everything works out the best it can.
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Atrox

Tommy Tuite

I kept my boxster til I had a second kid. Driving my partner and two little kids in the 996 is everything you've dreamed of. As far as adults, fitting back there, I squeezed plenty of friends in the back of my 73 911. It was always a hilarious and worthy squeeze.

robot808

I honestly think there is about the same space as my current car. I need the back seat for occasionally shuttling a couple of kids around town, or for tossing in a couple few cases of wine for work.
Of course, the Jag has a bigger trunk, but I have the 4runner if I need to move more stuff or people.
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TexSquirrel

docmirror

I'm also a 928 nut, and I bought a 99 996 with 80k on the clock. The reason I bought an 99 is to minimize exposure to some but not all of the engine failure modes. Within 3000 miles, I put in the LN bearing in the engine, full flow filter, third radiator, and mag oil plug. Everything I could do to avoid catastrophic failure. But - I still worried each time I drove it that I would hit one of the billion failure modes. Finally, I found a buyer for my gem and sold it. There's risk, and then there's risk. You can't buy a 996 lump for $2000 like a 928.

If you want to get one, do your regular mx, and then do your special mx and upgrade the things you can. Live with the risk. The 996 is a bargain package of great fun. I miss it every weekend. You won't be disappointed, unless you hit the engine lotto, then you can sell it for a roller for $6k and beg the wife for a chance to sleep inside soon.

wsrgklt

robot808

Doc, I remembered you from the 928 forum. I haven't spent any time on Rennlist partly because I spent way too much time on it when I had my shark.
I miss the board and the car. I had an 5 speed 16v, so I didn't have to worry about either TBF (reducing risks like the 99 model) But then, I went a little overboard and after I had all the maintenance caught up, I added a supercharger.
If I end up with a 996, I don't see too many performances mods in the future. I think I'd be happy just keeping it running.
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docmirror

Well sir, I don't know anything about the perf mods. Before you head down that road, drive a 996 in anger on some windy roads and see what you really need for go-fast mods. Trust me, there are plenty of things you can do to them. Chips, exhaust, M030 susp, bigger MAF, etc. All it takes is money. But - unlike the 928, when you push the go-fast pedal in the 996, and get the tach moving - you won't be disappointed.

mrjonger

Chances are the car is going to be fine. But risk of blowing the engine is real. If that happens, you easiest way out is selling the car for $4K as roller and walking away. But test drive one and see if you find anything that comes close to the performance and feel for the money. That's the nail in the coffin, you do that and you wouldn't writing this post. It would be a hey I'm new owner post. I think you're going to go look at it despite what you read. So...

See if you can get the records and see if the necessary maintenance has been done. At this stage, there's a good chance it'll need shocks (do the bounce test), new suspension bits (listen for clunks over bumps on test drive), water pump (every 4 years), coolant tank and thermostat (look for yellowing - also look for oil in there -walk away if you do), clutch / flywheel (slipping on drive, excessive chatter beyond slight 1 st gear rattle), engine mounts (one tail pipe sagging lower), brake pads and rotors (look to see if rotor is recessed compared to the lip), AOS (smoke on cold start, but smoke can mean other things - walk away). My cats just went at 36K miles (listen for rattling on cold starts and drive it till fully warm which 20 - 30 minutes and see if you hear rattling). Check the tires - expensive!. Listen for tapping or knocking - sign of bore scoring.

Al goes well, do the PPI. The IMS pre-qualification procedure covers a lot. Probably won't be able to drop the sump or remove the transaxle, but the others should be doable.

Everything you find is negotiating item. I had a Pre-qual done in my PPI a paid at ridiculous price to do it, but I knocked more than double that off the purchase price. If the PPI comes back pristine, do NOT share it with the seller - they can use it negotiate a better deal elsewhere. If you decide not to buy it after all, ask the seller if they want to buy the PPI so you can recoup your cost.

Good luck and welcome to the club

Horsepwr

I don't drive mine daily, but if I were to I would look at it like this.... You buy one for lets say 15k cash, now take $300/ mo and put it in a separate savings account (if you aren't disciplined enough to keep in your regular account and not spend) this will represent the monthly payment you would be making if you were to go get a Honda Accord to drive around in. This gives you $3600/year for maintenance if need be. Now this won't cover an engine failure but it will cover several other costs that may arise. Look at it this way, if it fails and the engine costs 15k you are 30k into driving a PORSCHE 911 daily instead of 30k into driving a Kia Optima. Just my two cents.

I've had dozens of cool cars over the years and this by far is the best toy to date.

Horsepwr

Here is a cheap one if anyone is looking....

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...8QNqUtFJ0fKc4k

Ratchet1025

I purchased a VW GTI from them about 6 years ago. Great to work with and I would buy from them again.

Ratchet1025

Well said, I completely agree.