02 TIP Torque Converter Lockup
As per TSB, I drove the car in 2hour stop and go traffic. Going to have my indy reset the learned values in the TCU...
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...tiptronic.html
"Its a well known problem and the "fix" is to install a new Tiptronic control unit with modified software. The newer control module has the part number 996.618.180.04 (or greater). I just noticed that you have a 996 C4S and not a turbo so you want a control unit with the part number 996.618.180.07 or newer. Have your dealer look at the Technical service bulletin 6/02 - 3701, dated February 14, 2003".
More helpful info for anyone else hitting this:
There is a TSB about a problem that sounds similar to what you have described. The symptoms include, inter alia, a hesitation/stutter in second gear (in the 2-3000 rpm range) and a grinding sound at very low rpms (e.g., below 1700) in third gear. The problem is generally intermittent and caused by stop and go driving. The Tip ECU defaults to an inappropriate program to accomodate the stop and go driving. As stated, the problem is intermittent, and may not occur for many months and extended stop and go driving. The problem can be temporarily remedied by extended highway driving, which causes the Tip ECU to revert back to its normal program. The fix is a new Tip ECU (the dealer will replace the ECU under warranty).
Try the following: find an open highway (minimal traffic) and drive 20+ mins at 70+ mph without stopping or slowing. If the problem goes away, it is likely the issue addressed by the TSB.
Also try starting in first gear, and running the rpms up to 5500+ before shifting to second, such that you are above the stutter/hesitation range (2-3000 rpms) upon hitting second gear. If you don't experience the stutter, it is likely the TSB problem.
Finally, the TSB stutter/hesitation problem only occurs after starting from a full stop, as opposed to reducing your rpms while in motion. Thus, try driving in second gear and, after the first hesitation/stutter, drop your rpms back down and go back through the stutter/hesitation range. If you don't experience the stutter/hesitation on the second pass through 2-3000 rpms in second gear, it is likely the TSB problem.
If you have the TSB problem, have your dealer order a new Tip ECU.
"The reason for this is the adaptation of the torque converter lockup clutch in the Tiptronic control unit. If the 996TT is driven in a restrained manner or is frequently driven in stop-and-go traffic, the Tiptronic control module adapts itself to unfavourable values that cause the grinding/rattling noises."
Last edited by shawn_nj; Sep 12, 2018 at 12:48 AM.
It can never hurt to do some extra ATF and filter service. Certainly because with a normal service you only drain half of the ATF. The rest is in the TC. Service interval for ATF and filter is every 90k miles. I would recommend to do it every 40-45k miles at least.
It can never hurt to do some extra ATF and filter service. Certainly because with a normal service you only drain half of the ATF. The rest is in the TC. Service interval for ATF and filter is every 90k miles. I would recommend to do it every 40-45k miles at least.
Another way is to disconnect the battery for a while.
After resetting the adaptation values go for a good &?long spirited drive.
See if that makes a difference!
Also make sure you do a e-gas calibration in case you have a car with e-gas.
Let me know which type of TCU you are looking for. I have a spare one from a 2002 mk2 car. I never had this problem you describe. Never heard about the updated TCU either. Strange they cannot do this update with a flash.
I also did the "reset" thing where you hold the throttle down and that cleared up a lot of wonkiness when I first bought it.
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I also did the "reset" thing where you hold the throttle down and that cleared up a lot of wonkiness when I first bought it.
What are the steps you did to reset? Even though I believe that only rests the ECU learning, and not the TIP TCU.
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Well some good news.... For the hell of it, I stopped at my local dealer and asked them to reset the TCU. They said they did not have time today to do it... They did print out the full TSB for me and quoted me the TCU replacement! <Expected sticker shock>. So I followed the TSB, and drove the car on a highway in a "sporty manner" for about 50miles. Speeds avg 80 and alot of full throttle acceleration, hitting all shift points. The Tiptronic TCU computer seems to have learned "good" adapt values. So far the problem is completely gone. I restarted the car since and drove and all is well. Test will be tomorrow when I cold start it and make sure problem is gone (till next time I get stuck in 3hours of traffic and TCU learns bad behavior again). Might try to hunt a used updated TCU (Part 996.618.180.07) and have my indy install.
Our '02 Tip I never notice the torque converter engage. In old '06 Jag XJ the engage/disengage was very noticeable, acceleration on freeway was slow until disengaged. Our 911 at freeway push gas and it straight goes zero waiting. Computer says 21.6 mpg average mostly freeway.
I believe in older vehicles with locking torque converters there was an external wire to the transmission. If ours has that a switch could be put in line to disable the torque converter when desired.
Last edited by 996.2; Oct 3, 2019 at 08:48 AM.
Our '02 Tip I never notice the torque converter engage. In old '06 Jag XJ the engage/disengage was very noticeable, acceleration on freeway was slow until disengaged. Our 911 at freeway push gas and it straight goes zero waiting. Computer says 21.6 mpg average mostly freeway.
I believe in older vehicles with locking torque converters there was an external wire to the transmission. If ours has that a switch could be put in line to disable the torque converter when desired.
And buying the Durametric for about $300 sounds like the right path, since would confirm the root cause, and then I can use it for other things as well.
Thanks, reading this thread and the embedded link to another Rennlist thread on the same subject is providing some very good leads and hope.
And buying the Durametric for about $300 sounds like the right path, since would confirm the root cause, and then I can use it for other things as well.
Thanks, reading this thread and the embedded link to another Rennlist thread on the same subject is providing some very good leads and hope.
Stop and go traffic seems to def be what causes the microcode bug to start. First time was ~2 hours of stop and go that did it. Second time it was only about 20mins....



