Fly - highly suggest you bed them in yourself BEFORE you bring the car to your indy.

Quick way for your 996:
Find a long stretch of road where you can safely, quickly accelerate from 20mph to 60mph, hard brake back to 20, and then back up to 60 again, repeat 4 or 5 times. When you start smelling "hot pads", time to stop braking, accelerate to a speed and the most important thing - DON'T TOUCH YOUR BRAKES UNTIL THEY'RE COOL!!
I have to drive for about 10 mins for them to cool.
After that, do the rotors still seem out of round? If so, then take it to your indy shop.
Obviously, if it clears up you just saved yourself a lot of money!

Explanation of why this might work: If your brakes were ever pretty hot and you stopped and kept your foot on the brakes while at a traffic light, a very thin coating of the brake pad material is now attached to the rotor and the only thing that will get it off is to heat the brakes, hence the re-bedding above.

Also, anytime you replace pads or rotors you need to re-bed them.

 

Wow, thanks for the details. I have never had to do this with conventional vehicles. I only noticed the feeling of something like warped rotors/ excessive chatter when I hit the brakes above 90 mph and I need to grab them quick. If I am below say 60 mph and use my brakes strongly, I don't have any issues and they seem to grab just fine to come to a stop.
I have a 3 hour (one way) drive to eastern WA this Saturday (primarily all highway, but have a perfect, long stretch I can try the re-bedding out on without traffic) and then I get to see a friend for 3 hours and then drive back 3 hours.
I assume after I follow your directions successfully, and everything has cooled down, I should be able to crack her open to 90 mph, grab the brakes (not lock them up) and the chatter should go away, yes?
I really appreciate your input and guidance and thanks for not laughing at my "white trash prop job", lol. (although I have to admit it was solid and I used rubber pucks on top of the wood so it would not dent/bend any frame work, etc..)

 

Fly - The more I read your symptoms the more I'm sure it's just a re-bed that will fix your problem. Don't forget to make sure you can safely apply the brakes from 60 - 20 without someone behind you! I prefer a lonely stretch of road. The first or second time you brake hard you may notice a slight vibration, that should go away.

Remember you are melting the microscopic coating of brake pad material, so you will get a nasty smell until they've cooled. Goal is to have a nice, smooth coating of pad material with no high spots!

 

Fly - oh, and this procedure should be done on ALL cars/trucks, not just sport cars. I have to do this about once a year on my 2014 Honda Accord.

 

Fly - did the re-bedding work?

 

OK be gentle on me ..... I might get some hell for this but I got my brake pads from the dealership the 1st time and I had brake dust everywhere, and a HUGE hole in my wallet, then I spoke with other PCA members and they told me about getting the brake pads at Auto Zone. So when it was time for new pads I went ahead and got a set from AutoZone and to my surprise they perform the same as the OEM ones and 0 brake dust. No more scrubbing the wheels or wheels looking black. here is a link.
Auto Zone Brake Pads

 

That is one nice car! And I love the pic!

 

Thank you Sir!!!! Not bad for 14 yr old car and 165k miles.....lol

 

I purchased Akebono Euro ceramics due to the recommendations of many others here on RL.

 

SASILVERBULLET is my hero of the week!!!!!!!
I just completed my 450 mile back and forth through the Cascade Mountains and successfully re-bedded my brakes on the way over. I had an excellent time, as well as I made really good time too 75-95 mph the whole way (safely of course) with an average of 24 mpg. I was surprised that I got that good of mileage since I was having some fun with the throttle off and on, hehhee.
Sasilverbullet, thanks again for your instruction and actually the "care" you took to educate me and offer advice. The brakes are smooth and no chatter whatsoever. I think I better try this on my truck too before I say "warped rotors" again.
Now I gotta fix a stereo hum, but I think I switched the RCA plugs into wrong spots when I pulled the deck out to reconnect the Bluetooth mic, lol. That should be a quickfix.

 

Your welcome! Bedding in of brakes/confusion with warped rotors is one of the most misunderstood things in the automotive world. Over the years I've only personally met 2 mechanics that knew about all this correctly, one was trained by Porsche in Stuttgart...

 

I have a question for you USA colleagues.

A couple of weeks ago, I was reading in C&D the last lightning test, and talking about brake pads, they actually mentioned that the OEMs send the cars to USA with different brake pads, with lower braking power due to the "hate" of the American market for the brake dust.

I mean, I dont like brake dust at all neither, but I rather prefer braking performance over the dust, that I can clean frequently. In Europe, yes, the brakes creates dust, but is nothing that I see critical (you just wash the car when needed it). Actually I never have chosen a pad for if it creates dust (the less the better, of course) but for its performance.

Now that I see this threat and after reading that article, Is that true that it is so important for you guys that even makes the manufacturers to take into account?

 

Well if that is true someone must have install European Porsche pads on my C4S . I can't go 200 miles without my wheels looking disgusting. Either way, I personally would find it hard to believe that any manufacturer would put a lower dusting pad and compromise braking ability. That sounds like it would be a recipe for a lawsuit.

 

You can not imagine how many parts are different because country specific "tastes" (I work for Bosch). For instance, I have realized that in the US is very common that cars come with All season tires, which have lower performance than summer tires. In Europe, all cars come with summer tires (even they are different models and brands), even in those countries where winter tires are mandatory.
You can read in the last lightning lap test, that they talk about that as a fact. It seems that is well known that the OEM use brake pads with lower dust specs in US and that reverts in a lower braking performance. Of course, is not going to cause a security issue, but only they perform worst under high demand. In the aftermarket you can find also different specs of pads, and that doesn't mean that they are dangerous.

 

Which Akebono pads are suitable for front C4S/turbo rotors?