Got my dream car, now what to do to it
07-13-2018, 08:01 PM
#31
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
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07-13-2018, 09:06 PM
#32
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Then I discovered actual water temps were quite a bit lower when checked via the ODBII or Durametric software. So now I’m curious to track again and monitor real temps rather than the factory gauges.
07-13-2018, 10:31 PM
#33
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Nobody there bites.... they're all pretty friendly. I'm a PCA instructor and am local - so if you have questions about tracking - I can probably help. There are some AWESOME indy shops local too. Florida Citrus goes to Roebling Road Raceway in October - great first track to learn on. Suncoast is headed to Sebring in September. There is also Oktoberfast at Daytona - it's an advanced DE, Club Race, and autocross on the road course and its a ton of fun.
07-13-2018, 10:33 PM
#34
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To be honest, my car was hitting 110C (230F) indicated on the track in the summer without the 3rd radiator and I have been quite convinced that these cars were running hot.
Then I discovered actual water temps were quite a bit lower when checked via the ODBII or Durametric software. So now I’m curious to track again and monitor real temps rather than the factory gauges.
07-13-2018, 10:35 PM
#35
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
OP,
Good words from the Rennlisters. My fun was going through the car and making sure all the fasteners were correct and functional, checking the undertrays, all the hoses, all the cosmetics like the covers over the front trunk release and under the wipers. Did you put screens for the radiators in? Loved getting to know the 996 and made it mine! Downloaded the PET to get smart about the systems, cleaned the seats and carpets, addressed the crappy soft-touch painted parts, etc and ad nauseum. Drive the car hard for a couple months and then determine what the suspension needs. Welcome and enjoy your P-car!
Good words from the Rennlisters. My fun was going through the car and making sure all the fasteners were correct and functional, checking the undertrays, all the hoses, all the cosmetics like the covers over the front trunk release and under the wipers. Did you put screens for the radiators in? Loved getting to know the 996 and made it mine! Downloaded the PET to get smart about the systems, cleaned the seats and carpets, addressed the crappy soft-touch painted parts, etc and ad nauseum. Drive the car hard for a couple months and then determine what the suspension needs. Welcome and enjoy your P-car!
07-13-2018, 10:37 PM
#36
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm not sure i understand the whole issue with the temps. The fans are not even comanded to come on until about 215 degrees. Most cars on the road run 200 to 225 actual temps while driving.
07-13-2018, 11:02 PM
#37
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
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Have a nice day.
out
07-13-2018, 11:07 PM
#38
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well, this is a public forum. Where people come to give free advice. Some people are engineers, and understand thermodynamics, heat stress, metalurgy, and how it is affected by temperature. If Porsche says you can run your car at 215F, then you can run your car at 215F. Go right ahead. I will guarantee that you will never have a D chunk, spun bearing, dropped valve, cylinder crack, head crack, or one of the other 842 failure modes on the M96 engine. In fact, I think you should actually go hotter. Take out the t-stat and find or make a hotter one, and install that. Cuz - if some heat is ok, then more heat must be better.
Have a nice day.
out
Have a nice day.
out
07-13-2018, 11:14 PM
#39
RL Community Team
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Guess maybe i will have to join the club. I just always thought thoses kinda of clubs were all people who held their noses up like snobs and drove $200,000 911's. I'm just a hard working mechanic who wouldnt be able to afford a Porsche unless i could fix it myself......But the thought i tracking the car sounds fun as hell. Maybe i should get involved.
They’re even cool with me about my unusual mods.
It might not be their style, but they applaud me for making it mine.
I thought they wouldn’t accept me, because I’m just a regular guy.
Turns out they’re regular guys...with a lot more money.
They buy the toys I would be buying if I had their cash.
There are also lots of DIYers, and DIY-want-2-be guys.
If you’re a technician they will want your help with their cars.
I sometimes just sit and watch them work in my garage with my tools and offer advice when they run into problems.
They’re just normal guys too.
I’m a tool *****, so I’ve got almost everything needed for working on just about anything.
07-14-2018, 12:58 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
No, I have. Read though countless threads about temperature and read all the Hartech white papers, listened to Jake. And then discovered that my DME reported temps are 10-15 colder than what the gauge reads. So all this worry about temps and my coolant wasn’t even hitting 100C most of the time on the track.
07-14-2018, 01:27 PM
#41
When talking to the guys that develop deep sump kits eventually when you keep asking all of them will admit that it is not 100% safe and you need a accusump.
07-15-2018, 09:54 AM
#42
Rennlist Member
a deep sump will not protect you from anything. The position of the oil pick up is flawed and a deeper sump will not remedy that, eventually the oil-level will drop too low. We managed to see significant oil pressure drops on the street. At least such that you have to be worried.
When talking to the guys that develop deep sump kits eventually when you keep asking all of them will admit that it is not 100% safe and you need a accusump.
07-15-2018, 10:21 AM
#43
Or you can just run the car as is. I’ve done 2 DE events and May do one or 2 a year going forward. “They” say you can get oil starvation even on street tires. Im running at lime rock and maybe im not good enough or the track is in a way I haven’t seen a drop in pressure. For a DE event every now and then no deep sump for me. As time goes on and I get better maybe I’ll add one. But plenty of people track their cars without a deep sump and haven’t blown up an engine... fingers crossed it stays that way
07-15-2018, 12:36 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
Or you can just run the car as is. I’ve done 2 DE events and May do one or 2 a year going forward. “They” say you can get oil starvation even on street tires. Im running at lime rock and maybe im not good enough or the track is in a way I haven’t seen a drop in pressure. For a DE event every now and then no deep sump for me. As time goes on and I get better maybe I’ll add one. But plenty of people track their cars without a deep sump and haven’t blown up an engine... fingers crossed it stays that way
The less spoken about issue is oil aeration and thinning at high temps experienced on track that coupled with starvation caused major engine damage. 200 treadwear or stickier tires compound this issue and at that point, a 1/2 quart deep sump, even with X51 baffle, is useless, requiring more drastic changes like a race oil and 2 quart deep sump.
Using a quality oil and changing it more often is wise, even with street tires, and especially if you are DE'ing the car. Take your pick of factory approved 5w40 oils if you are set on using an A40-approved oil, like Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40.
07-15-2018, 01:31 PM
#45
Truth be told, it's very hard to get oil starvation with Porsche N-spec street tires. You cannot pull enough Gs. It takes a really skilled driver and very specific conditions to see a dip in oil pressure. Road America in the Carousel is one such place. The 1/2 quart deep sump is good for 1/2 bar increase in pressure through the Carousel in those conditions, running Mobil 1.
The less spoken about issue is oil aeration and thinning at high temps experienced on track that coupled with starvation caused major engine damage. 200 treadwear or stickier tires compound this issue and at that point, a 1/2 quart deep sump, even with X51 baffle, is useless, requiring more drastic changes like a race oil and 2 quart deep sump.
Using a quality oil and changing it more often is wise, even with street tires, and especially if you are DE'ing the car. Take your pick of factory approved 5w40 oils if you are set on using an A40-approved oil, like Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40.
The less spoken about issue is oil aeration and thinning at high temps experienced on track that coupled with starvation caused major engine damage. 200 treadwear or stickier tires compound this issue and at that point, a 1/2 quart deep sump, even with X51 baffle, is useless, requiring more drastic changes like a race oil and 2 quart deep sump.
Using a quality oil and changing it more often is wise, even with street tires, and especially if you are DE'ing the car. Take your pick of factory approved 5w40 oils if you are set on using an A40-approved oil, like Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40.