Gptoyz

with the cost of replacement so inexpensive, I would not waste time and cost of turning rotors, especially with cross drilled and/or slotted rotors. They would have to check run out and even then, if there's too much variation between high and low spots, you may get vibration.

labor and or personal time is expensive, remove and replacing rotors is quick and cheap.

btw, the absolute worst thing that could possibly happen, if you ran it to the absolute minimum and beyond, is that under braking you crack the rotor surface. It's a 1 piece rotor, so it's highly highly unlikely that you could have a catastrophic failure like a 2 piece where the hat and ring separate. Even if you were to crack a 1 piece rotor, you would still be able to stop.

mrjonger

Thanks Ahsai. I think OP is in the same situation I was. Beyond the machine limit but no vibration. I just changed the pads and flushed the fluid. I'm wishing I changed the rotors now. I guess they'll come out next oil change.

texcwa

To all, I have read and taken into consideration everyone's comments. I have decided too and ordered new Porsche rotors and pads. I chose to use the Porsche rotors since I agree with Ahsai that if your already down to turn limits, turning them would get you down to the wear limit (in my case anyways). Also most if not all the after market rotors say "for street use only". This statement makes me think that they are not built to Porsche standards (I could be wrong but why?). In my mind, the Porsche brakes last a long time (68K miles in my case) so this will probably be the last set of rotors I will need. Thanks again for all the comments and recommendations.

Ahsai

mrjonger, in my experience, the genuine rotors should last two sets of pads before needing replacement. I think you'll be fine as long as no vibration and no track time.

Texcwa, I also love genuine rotors despite a bit more expensive. They last a long time so I don't really care about the price delta. Sometimes high quality products with less uncertainty will make the DIY jobs a lot more enjoyable. I'm sure a lot of cheap rotors are made in China so that's a bit questionable to me but that's just me.

Just use some anti-seize on the two big m12 bolts (must be replaced per Porsche) on the caliper and the small set screws on the rotors and you'll be fine for many years.

Also good useful tips by Rennpart above. You can use a brass brush to clean up the wheel hub, then use brake cleaner to clean it, make sure it's completely flat and smooth. Then apply a very very thin layer of anti-seize on it before you put on the rotor. This will help rotor removal next time very easy.

DBJoe996

Just so you know (agreeing with both posts above), I went OE brake rotors as well when it came time to replace them. Yes, more expensive, but to me it is worth it given that they are MY brakes and have to function perfectly....every time.

mayday1

I've been needing new brakes for two years. Reading this thread finally got me to get off my butt this morning and order the parts needed to replace the pads and rotors of my '99 C2.
Fedex says they'll arrive 3rd July, so I know what I'll be doing the celebrate the 4th.

Question. When replacing the rear rotors, do the rear drum parking brakes need replacing or adjusting?

Thanks

dkraige

In general, yes. It's unsafe to assume the inside diameter of the new rotors will be exactly the same as the old rotors, so you should expect to adjust the parking brake. You should NOT need to replace them though, unless they've been misadjusted and dragging a lot, or you've been doing a lot of handbrake turns

The most likely scenario is that you'll need to back off the shoes slightly, since the new rotor's ID is likely to be slightly smaller, since the old ones may have worn ever so slightly, and the new ones may have a thicker coating than the old ones. You should not need to adjust anything at the handbrake handle end of things, only at the rear wheel ends.

The adjustment is quite easy, just search on how to do it. I'd recommend turning the adjuster wheel while you have the rotor off and have easy access to it. It may be somewhat rusted in place, so the first turn might be hard and you'll need a little extra leverage that can be hard to get when you're going through the rotor, and especially going through the wheel also. Once you break it loose, it's easy to turn from there. There's an article on it here: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Adjustment.htm

shft22

Don't want to hijack the this thread, but is there any opinions on these rotors from Discount Auto parts, they are made by WBR, they are only $58 per.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...921%7CL2*16462

Gptoyz

For street people, all of these rotors will make absolutely 0 difference, the only difference between them is how much lighter your wallet will be.

IF you were driving the car on the track, then factors such as: how the cross drills were made, the metallurgy and the tolerances observed by the manufacturers would mean the difference between cracking a rotor and trouble free braking. Then again if you were tracking you wouldn't want a x-drilled, slotted and certainly not a x-drilled & slotted rotor.

Would I buy an el cheapo eBay rotor? Absolutely not, because I have no clue where it came from, however, a rotor from Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone, parts geek or rock auto I would not be concerned about.

The 911/986/987 are not heavy cars so they aren't experiencing a ton of braking force either. On something like a panamera or a cayenne, I would definitely make sure I was using a quality brand rotor. I definitely wouldn't worry about a Bosch, Pagid, Bendix rotor, those are quality manufacturers who have stricter QC than the run of the mill chinese brands.

RennPart

As far as rotors go, you get what you pay for from our personal experience. We have gone down the rabbit hole of "cheap" rotors before with no luck. We find that Textar rotors are good for a street driven car and the most cost effective for that application. Next step up would be OEM, then if you need something more heavy duty for advanced track use we would recommend DBA rotors.

An example of you get what you pay for are the "ATE" brand slotted (wavy) rotors. They "fit" but must be hammered onto the hub on the front due to incorrect tollerences, not an ideal situation and we will not sell them to our customers!