texcwa

Getting ready to order the parts needed for brake service. Have read several threads and Pelican "How To" Articles and appears to be a very straight forward process but since I do not have a manual, thought I would see if someone could help out with some questions. First, I just removed all 4 wheels and took some measurements:

Right Frontt - Rotor measured 1.058" / 26.87 mm thick. Very smooth surface both sides. (Both front rotors had a raised rib at outer edge of approx .67 mm, is this normal?) Pads approx 5 mm.
Left Front - Rotor measured 1.057" / 26.84 mm, also very smooth surface both sides. Pads approx 5 mm
Right Rear - Rotor measured .921" / 23.39 mm. Very smooth surface both sides (Both rears had a typ rib at outer edge of approx .40 mm) Pads approx 6 mm.
Left Rear - Rotor measured .922" / 23.41 mm, also very smooth surface both sides. Pads approx 6 mm.

Brakes have been very smooth with no vibration. Here are my questions:

1. Are the rotors within spec? Do not want to replace if not necessary. (Do not track car)
2, Are the ribs at outer edge of rotors normal or is this due to wear?
3. Any comments on the TEXTAR pads v OEM pads?
4. Any comments on using existing Dampers v buying new?
5. Any comments on using existing Pad Sensors v buying new?

Finally, anything I should be know that's not in the Pelican "How To" Article?

Thanks, any comments welcome.

wyovino

This is the video that I used and it guided me through the process. It was my first brake job on any car and it was very straight forward. I replaced everything with OEM parts including all bolts, clips, and dampers. I think that when I do it again I'll reuse the dampers as they added hundreds to the parts bill. If you have a pronounced ridge on the rotors you should replace them too.


He has another video for the back brakes.

texcwa

So the OEM or new rotors are smooth/flush through out the entire rotor? the lip at edge is due to rotor wear? If so, I will invest in new rotors. The car has 68 K miles on it and I have all the records for repairs on it (from day one) with no mention of previous rotor replacement.

Horsepwr

Keep in mind pads will wear to the rotor so you may not have a vibration now, but its possible if you just pad slap it you will develop one. I'm not even sure is people turn rotors anymore, just buy new ones. You will get much better performance out of new rotors and pads than just doing half. If it were a 2000 Civic I would say slap some pads and move on, but its a Porsche.

wyovino

Yes, the new ones are flat to the edge. The ridge is caused by wear.

texcwa

I figured that would be the case, just wanted to confirm before ordering pads and rotors. Now need to decide if I should get all new Dampers and other hardware (bots, ect)

Thanks for the responses.

cds72911

Ahsai

OP, the front min is 26.8mm (new is 28mm) so your front should be replaced. The rears are optional (new 24mm, limit is 22.6mm) but they are not expensive so I would recommend replacing them too.

texcwa

Asai, Thanks for the numbers, it helps to know what the specs are. All, thanks for the input, no one wants to spend more than they need to but at the same time, I want to keep the car in good running (and stopping) condition. I have no corrosion issues and all bolts and clips look to be in good shape but what about the Dampeners? is re-using the old ones an option?

Cuda911

You can reuse the dampers. I've run with and without them. Noticed no difference.

wyovino

You can reuse the dampers. Some people leave them out completely and report no issues. I'm in the camp of doing everything by the book so I replaced mine.

Gptoyz

A couple of things I would suggest to speed the process:

Bleed/flush the brakes after you finish changing pads/rotors (saves fluid)
Remove the reservoir cap before you spread the pads
If the rotor isn't lipped, I would continue using it and just put fresh pads (same compound)
Resurfacing is never worth it

Optional tools that idiot proof the process:
Crows foot wrench - for the bleed nipple, this makes it impossible to strip the head as it will grab on almost all 6 sides flat. it also allows you to reposition easily in case you run out of space
Brake Pad Spreader - Yes you can use screwdrivers, pry bars, etc, but brake pad spreaders make short work of pushing the brake pads back and retracting the pistons with out damaging rotors or calipers Fluid Tester - for $9 gives you some visibility as to whether your fluid is in need of a flush Turkey Baster or fluid syringe - draw out as much of the old fluid as possible, reduces work
Allstar Bleeder Bottle - 1 way check valve, means true 1 handed operation. magnet, so you can hang the bottle locally near corner you are working on.
Brake pad wear sensors: yes you can reuse the original ones, provided they weren't tripped. They are basically a fuse for the brake pads, once the pad wears to the sensor and through it, it severs the circuit and trips the pad wear light. But, I would check the pad depth and don't let it trip the sensor, by the time you trip the sensor, you'll most definitely have to replace the rotors (the most costly part)
Rotors: rotors can wear to the minimum thickness

dgjks6

I vote for ceramic pads if it is a DD. Minimal dust.

If you reuse the hardware make sure you clean clean clean it. Then clean it again. Biggest problem I have encountered doing brakes is short lifespan on new pads and rotors because of hardware reuse and the pads do not retract evenly. And you get uneven wear.

Cuda911

^^^ Yep, good to replace the hardware every 2 to 3 pad changes.

texcwa

Again, thanks for all the input. For those that are in same situation and looking to replace brakes, here is what I found for costs (for new rotors and pads only) These costs included shipping to CA.

Pelican Parts - All Porsche parts $1.004.25
Pelican Parts - After Market (OEM brand rotors, TEXTAR pads) $882.43
Sunset Porsche - All Porsche parts $948.09
Suncoast Porsche - All Porsche parts $938.26

Looks like I will be ordering from Suncoast and staying with Porsche parts.