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My 99 C2 has been fitted with H&R club sports, street use , no track...they lower the car about 1- 1.25". Aligning the car I can't get any better than -2* toe on the rears (the eccentric adjustment is maxed out) , and I run out of toe adjustment with the stock link, leaving me with just a tad toe out . There are a number of replacement link suppliers with parts that will get it back to factory spec. .But, to avoid the expenseI was wondering whether anyone on the list with the same problem has tried raising the rear , a little more ride height , maybe a 1/2" or so, perhaps a thicker shim under the Spring or a different spring. Any thoughts?
I've heard of using a shim on top of the spring (under the top mount) but I have no experience with it. I just happened to be on Vivid Racing's site earlier today and saw these: https://www.vividracing.com/torque-s...150724393.html seems like a good deal...(although probably more than having a couple shims made...). Good luck and let us know how you decide to deal with it
Yeah, Vivid, Tarett, Agency Power, etc all have the nice parts that will do it. But I think I may just take a gamble and turn a couple of shims. Will publish the results
I ended up using tarrett toe links , it worked very well . Easy to do . I can’t see how shims would work even half as well . If they did , there would be a kit on the market
As you go lower, you will need a shorter toe rod and there are several kits that can do this. They do not, however, correct the problem of toe out on bump of the lowered car. I suppose that a solution would be to dial in excessive rear toe in... but that way causes increased tire scrub/wear and is "slow".
One thing to also consider is the arc that the toe-rod takes in a lowered car. Since the rod will "effectively shorten" as it moves up and down in its arc, the goal is to make the sweet spot in the arc (the spot in which there is a minimal change in length; usually perpendicular to the wheel travel) align with your desired ride height. The reason this is important is because as the toe rod shortens during it's arc, it will cause the rear alignment to toe out... which makes the back of the car want to pass the front. The way others have done this is to shim the outboard toe rod link down, as in the Tarrett kit.
The trouble with shimming is that it preloads the spring. Preload means the initial part of the travel will be stiffer.
???...not at all... all the shim does is raise the chassis and change the position of the five links relative to the tire. There is no change in the spring height as compressed by the weight of the car
As you go lower, you will need a shorter toe rod and there are several kits that can do this. They do not, however, correct the problem of toe out on bump of the lowered car. I suppose that a solution would be to dial in excessive rear toe in... but that way causes increased tire scrub/wear and is "slow".
One thing to also consider is the arc that the toe-rod takes in a lowered car. Since the rod will "effectively shorten" as it moves up and down in its arc, the goal is to make the sweet spot in the arc (the spot in which there is a minimal change in length; usually perpendicular to the wheel travel) align with your desired ride height. The reason this is important is because as the toe rod shortens during it's arc, it will cause the rear alignment to toe out... which makes the back of the car want to pass the front. The way others have done this is to shim the outboard toe rod link down, as in the Tarrett kit.
Yes...am well aware of the kinematics involved. The thought is that by raising the ride height, the orientation of the toe link would allow just enough more lengthening to bring the toe in a bit. Raising the car does the same thing ( to a certain extent geometrically) as shimming the toe link . . And by raising the car, it also adds " length" (geometrically speaking) to the top links and force the camber back within factory spec. Hopeful that I said that right.
My car is low. I had inside edge wear on the rear. Both camber and toe were out of whack. The toe got corrected but the camber could not be brought within spec. 6K miles later the rear tire wear looks pretty even, so I think the toe is more important than the camber. YMMV.
???...not at all... all the shim does is raise the chassis and change the position of the five links relative to the tire. There is no change in the spring height as compressed by the weight of the car
I was thinking you were talking about a shim between spring and top hat. My error. So, your talking about a shim that goes on top of the top hat between shock and body?
I'm about to install these coilovers and all my research to date says you need to buy rear toe links that are adjustable and someway to fix the camber in the front. I bought GroundControl top hats for the front.
04-04-2018 | 03:34 PM
Correcting rear camber H&R coilovers
