What are larger/better brakes that will fit onto my 996 C2?
#1
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Thread Starter
What are larger/better brakes that will fit onto my 996 C2?
Greetings folks,
I tried looking up this question, but I didn't see any great threads on it. So here's my question:
My brakes and rotors are closing in on replacement on my 2001 C2. I'm running the 18" Turbo Twist wheels. What are some options for larger brakes without having to do a ton of retrofitting? I'm not a mechanic, but I'd love to be able to do this upgrade without having to change my wheels or anything.
Will the 996 Turbo/C4S brakes fit? Is there an aftermarket variety that people would suggest? 993 Turbo brakes?
Either way, I'd love to have someone baby-step me through it. Thank you!
-Matt
I tried looking up this question, but I didn't see any great threads on it. So here's my question:
My brakes and rotors are closing in on replacement on my 2001 C2. I'm running the 18" Turbo Twist wheels. What are some options for larger brakes without having to do a ton of retrofitting? I'm not a mechanic, but I'd love to be able to do this upgrade without having to change my wheels or anything.
Will the 996 Turbo/C4S brakes fit? Is there an aftermarket variety that people would suggest? 993 Turbo brakes?
Either way, I'd love to have someone baby-step me through it. Thank you!
-Matt
#2
Rennlist Member
What is your goal? Esthetics? Track use? With the right pads the stock brakes are pretty darn good. Turbo/C4S brakes weren't really that much bigger and when I have looked at it given the cost it doesn't seem worth it. I would assume the stock turbo/C4S brakes will fit under 18" turbo twists since those cars were sold new with those wheels as well. If you were really looking for stopping power for track use maybe look at StopTech aftermarket kits and GiroDisc rotors. Apex Performance in South Carolina is the PCA official sponsor for brakes, they would be good and very knowledgeable folks to call and ask some questions.
#3
997 turbo brakes are an option but you might need 19" wheels , worth contacting these guys for advice http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Porsche-996.html
ive just bought girodisks which with better pads ( they also make good ones) are a good option without other changes needed
havent installed them yet http://www.girodisc.com/Rotors_c_1036.html
ive just bought girodisks which with better pads ( they also make good ones) are a good option without other changes needed
havent installed them yet http://www.girodisc.com/Rotors_c_1036.html
Last edited by Vancouver996; 04-01-2018 at 03:47 PM.
#4
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips! Was looking to kill two birds with one stone - red calipers and better stopping power. If the C4S/TT system isn't leaps and bounds better for increased cost, then I guess going with better pads and painting calipers might just be a better option? I'll talk to Apex and see what they have to say as well.
Thanks guys!
-Matt
Thanks guys!
-Matt
#5
I’ve had the 996TT brakes, I’ve also had the GT3 6 piston brake system with 18 inch wheels. For a street or hpde car I personally think it’s a waste. Good fluid, good pads with proper bedding and good air guides are your friend. I know this isn’t the “popular” or “Sexy” recommendation.
Mike
Mike
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#6
Piggybacking on this thread.
I don´t plan to track my car, only street driving and autocross. The massive stock rotors seem like an overkill for a 3000lb car that probably never
has to brake at more than highway speed. I wonder if there are lighter/smaller rotors available to reduce the unsprung weight.
I don´t plan to track my car, only street driving and autocross. The massive stock rotors seem like an overkill for a 3000lb car that probably never
has to brake at more than highway speed. I wonder if there are lighter/smaller rotors available to reduce the unsprung weight.
#7
The stock braking system on a 996 C2 is very good. Find a pad/rotor combination you like, paint your calipers if you’re into that and be done with it.
Anything else is is a complete waste of time and money for anyone not optimizing for either sprint or endurance racing. If you choose to do that then there are more targeted modifications (with trade offs) that you could do.
Anything else is is a complete waste of time and money for anyone not optimizing for either sprint or endurance racing. If you choose to do that then there are more targeted modifications (with trade offs) that you could do.
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Cityfisher (08-02-2020),
Ratchet1025 (08-05-2020)
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#8
If you are really serious about the reciprocating weight, GyroDisc, Coleman racing, amd a few others make a custom 2 piece rotor. Look into your wheel/lugstud/TIRE wheets. I converted from the 19s on my car when I bought it back in Feb to the GT3 wheels and HTR ZIII. Lighter by a decent margine. Checl the data...
#9
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I’ve had the 996TT brakes, I’ve also had the GT3 6 piston brake system with 18 inch wheels. For a street or hpde car I personally think it’s a waste. Good fluid, good pads with proper bedding and good air guides are your friend. I know this isn’t the “popular” or “Sexy” recommendation.
Mike
Mike
#10
Rennlist Member
The stock brakes are usually more than enough to cause any wheel to lock up, forcing the ABS to kick in. You would then want more tire to have better braking, but still, I believe the stock brakes can probably absorb 700+HP and still be fine, even under extreme hard braking.
For example, my stock 996.1 C2 at Road America coming into turn 1 at about 135mph could easily slow the car down, and coming into turn 5 at 125mph and downhill for a tight left hander. It will do this over and over again.
It’s only after repeated cycles on the track and after a few laps that street brake pads and fluids won’t hold up. Then, after replacing fluids and pad for track use, you’d want to look at replacing any brake lines for improved braking. After those items are exhausted, I would only then look at upgrading the brakes.
Unless of course your problem is that you have to apply a larger amount of pedal pressure to slow the car nd it feels to you like you need better brakes. In that case, you can look at a more streetable pad that has better immediate bite under braking. I would also check your vacuum booster to make sure it’s operting correctly.
For example, my stock 996.1 C2 at Road America coming into turn 1 at about 135mph could easily slow the car down, and coming into turn 5 at 125mph and downhill for a tight left hander. It will do this over and over again.
It’s only after repeated cycles on the track and after a few laps that street brake pads and fluids won’t hold up. Then, after replacing fluids and pad for track use, you’d want to look at replacing any brake lines for improved braking. After those items are exhausted, I would only then look at upgrading the brakes.
Unless of course your problem is that you have to apply a larger amount of pedal pressure to slow the car nd it feels to you like you need better brakes. In that case, you can look at a more streetable pad that has better immediate bite under braking. I would also check your vacuum booster to make sure it’s operting correctly.
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Ratchet1025 (08-05-2020)
#11
Rennlist Member
The stock brakes are usually more than enough to cause any wheel to lock up, forcing the ABS to kick in. You would then want more tire to have better braking, but still, I believe the stock brakes can probably absorb 700+HP and still be fine, even under extreme hard braking.
For example, my stock 996.1 C2 at Road America coming into turn 1 at about 135mph could easily slow the car down, and coming into turn 5 at 125mph and downhill for a tight left hander. It will do this over and over again.
It’s only after repeated cycles on the track and after a few laps that street brake pads and fluids won’t hold up. Then, after replacing fluids and pad for track use, you’d want to look at replacing any brake lines for improved braking. After those items are exhausted, I would only then look at upgrading the brakes.
Unless of course your problem is that you have to apply a larger amount of pedal pressure to slow the car nd it feels to you like you need better brakes. In that case, you can look at a more streetable pad that has better immediate bite under braking. I would also check your vacuum booster to make sure it’s operting correctly.
For example, my stock 996.1 C2 at Road America coming into turn 1 at about 135mph could easily slow the car down, and coming into turn 5 at 125mph and downhill for a tight left hander. It will do this over and over again.
It’s only after repeated cycles on the track and after a few laps that street brake pads and fluids won’t hold up. Then, after replacing fluids and pad for track use, you’d want to look at replacing any brake lines for improved braking. After those items are exhausted, I would only then look at upgrading the brakes.
Unless of course your problem is that you have to apply a larger amount of pedal pressure to slow the car nd it feels to you like you need better brakes. In that case, you can look at a more streetable pad that has better immediate bite under braking. I would also check your vacuum booster to make sure it’s operting correctly.
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Ratchet1025 (08-05-2020)
#12
This is the best advice for a “mod” beyond pads/fluids in this thread!
Exactly. I track my 996 with stock brakes and stock rotors using track pads. Even on Hoosier R7 slicks 245 front and 315 rear I can lock up no problem. Honestly the #1 brake modification I have made is installing a 997 GT3 master cylinder. That with stock brakes is more than adequate for me on my mostly track use 996. Pedal feel is excellent...I would venture to guess if you did any caliper/rotor upgrade without upgrading the master cylinder you would be disappointed. Even for a street car the 997 GT3 master cylinder would be a nice upgrade...it reduces pedal travel a lot and gives a much more firm pedal feel than the stock 996 C2 or Turbo/C4S master cylinders. Plus it's a cheap upgrade compared to calipers and rotors.
#13
I know I'm pretty late to this thread but I've suffered from brake fade on track in my C2. I now use a self-developed solution that allows me to use bigger rotors without having to pay megabucks for Gyrodiscs. I'm in the early days of testing but the front solution definitely works. The rears need an entirely different approach but I'm slowly getting there. The easy path on the rear is to use a stock 996 turbo rear caliper and a 330mm diameter turbo rear disc, and use spacers to move the caliper out. I'm trying to figure something out that will negate the need to hunt down 996 turbo calipers but it's not easy, which I guess is why a comercially available solution hasn't come along yet.
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Dick964 (10-01-2022)
#14
My mechanic is going to put the brakes from a 997c4s roller on my car right now. I wanted to paint the calipers already. So it is not that much an extra. Wheel carriers needs to be transplanted and some adapters machined. More esthetics then extra braking power.
This is the colour combo I have in mind. Acid Blue on Polar Silver.
This is the colour combo I have in mind. Acid Blue on Polar Silver.
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Ratchet1025 (08-05-2020)