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What RPM Do You Drive At

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Old 02-07-2018, 08:13 AM
  #46  
Quadcammer
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Originally Posted by TonyTwoBags
Lots of people in this thread wasting revolutions per minute on USELESS engine noises and STUPID decisions sacrificing MPG for enjoyment.

You guys should be ashamed of yourselves.
Like i said, rev it at 5000rpm all day long if thats what does it for you, but all youre doing is creating extra wear, burning gas, and making you look like a complete jackass to bystanders. if you are so desparate to hear the noise from the pathetic m96 while cruising, then have at it.
Old 02-07-2018, 09:02 AM
  #47  
Mike Murphy
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Originally Posted by brianbbs67
I would just say, that the manual says don't warm up. Start and drive right away. I checked the German, it reads the same. So, I will follow the builders advice, myself.
I don’t think you mean ‘ don’t warm up,’ but rather, ‘warm up by driving it, being careful not to use prodigious amounts of throttle and RPMs during warmup.’

Everyone warms up their car’s engines, except those who do not ever start them. How you warm up is the difference.

Last edited by Mike Murphy; 02-07-2018 at 09:38 AM.
Old 02-07-2018, 09:24 AM
  #48  
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What RPM do you drive at?...........The title should be "At what RPM do you drive?" Never end a sentence with a preposition.
There.........a useful contribution to the thread.
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:45 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by David993S
What RPM do you drive at?...........The title should be "At what RPM do you drive?" Never end a sentence with a preposition.
There.........a useful contribution to the thread.
and, but, or
as, if, for
neither, nor
these are prepositions
Old 02-07-2018, 11:53 AM
  #50  
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Besides that they don't teach grammer in our schools anymore and when I was in school I was daydreaming about Porsches
Old 02-07-2018, 02:54 PM
  #51  
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At high RPM I will drive. Lug the engine, I will not.
Old 02-07-2018, 02:58 PM
  #52  
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I overrev as much as possible and try never to let it go below redline.
Old 02-07-2018, 03:00 PM
  #53  
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I'm not even sure we can agree on what is "high" and what is "low".

Personally I would consider 4000-5000 "medium/moderate" rpms. 3000 or less "low" rpms, and above 6000 "high" rpms but I get the feeling there would be a lot of disagreement around here. ( once again on my M96 987S with MT) I don't know where I got those numbers. never analyzed anything. Just my driving "feel" regarding the car.

Last edited by Semitone; 02-07-2018 at 05:10 PM.
Old 02-07-2018, 05:08 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Nickshu
I overrev as much as possible and try never to let it go below redline.
Old 02-07-2018, 05:12 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by NYoutftr
I should be clear about letting car warm up
My statement was vague, so I will explain what I meant.
I usally wait until I can see temp gauge move the needle off the bottom.
Then I drive, but I keep rpms under 3500, until operating temperature.
I know that cold running puts a lot of unburnt gas in the oil.
It is also, true that running your car at operating temperatures, for a continued period of time, the unburnt gas in the oil will be burnt in the combustion chamber.
It is also true, there is a reason why we run synthetic oil like Mobil 1, that will protect our cylinders during a cold start.
David
Still too long warm up IMO. Start, wait for RPM's to drop and go while maintaining lower (3K) revs until operating temp reached.
How does Mobile 1 protect M96 cylinders in cold start? Don't all oils drain into the pan after shutdown? Isn't the correct viscosity for the season what will protect the cylinders at cold start?
Old 02-07-2018, 09:08 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by curtsr
Still too long warm up IMO. Start, wait for RPM's to drop and go while maintaining lower (3K) revs until operating temp reached.
How does Mobile 1 protect M96 cylinders in cold start? Don't all oils drain into the pan after shutdown? Isn't the correct viscosity for the season what will protect the cylinders at cold start?
How long does it take for your RPMs to drop? My Mk1 starts up and revs immediately to 2k within the first 1-2 seconds and then stays at 1000-1100 for at least 1-3 minutes. I do not wait longer than 5 seconds to start driving. I see no reason to wait for the secondary air injection to stop and for engine to ultimately settle down to 675, which is where my car idles when hot without the AC on (800 with the AC on).
Old 02-07-2018, 09:11 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by curtsr
How does Mobile 1 protect M96 cylinders in cold start? Don't all oils drain into the pan after shutdown? Isn't the correct viscosity for the season what will protect the cylinders at cold start?
Yes, but some oils stick to surfaces better than others. I don’t know about Mobil 1.

For folks driving their cars regularly, like every day, there is hardly any metal to metal contact on startup due to oil sticking to surfaces from the day before. Those driving their cars once a month will suffer more wear from each cold start because much of the oil would have made its way off the surfaces.
Old 02-07-2018, 09:44 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by murphyslaw1978


I don’t think you mean ‘ don’t warm up,’ but rather, ‘warm up by driving it, being careful not to use prodigious amounts of throttle and RPMs during warmup.’

Everyone warms up their car’s engines, except those who do not ever start them. How you warm up is the difference.
There's nothing controversial in what you post, since every conscientious owner "warms up" his engine as you suggest. The question however is whether it is advisable to let the engine idle for a few minutes after start-up. No one recommends that any longer. When carburetors were used in cars, it was necessary to idle the engine for a couple of minutes on cold mornings to facilitate a smooth running engine. Ole timers like me even remember when we had to pull the choke **** at start-up.
Old 02-08-2018, 11:59 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by murphyslaw1978
How long does it take for your RPMs to drop? My Mk1 starts up and revs immediately to 2k within the first 1-2 seconds and then stays at 1000-1100 for at least 1-3 minutes. I do not wait longer than 5 seconds to start driving. I see no reason to wait for the secondary air injection to stop and for engine to ultimately settle down to 675, which is where my car idles when hot without the AC on (800 with the AC on).
About 10 seconds, then I'm ready to go with due respect for all the other moving parts that are not loosened up/ up to temp like suspension/ transmission.Then when temps rise to about 180-200 anything goes.

Originally Posted by murphyslaw1978
Yes but some oils stick to surfaces better than others. I don’t know about Mobil 1. For folks driving their cars regularly, like every day, there is hardly any metal to metal contact on startup due to oil sticking to surfaces from the day before. Those driving their cars once a month will suffer more wear from each cold start because much of the oil would have made its way off the surfaces.
Pretty much what I was getting at, does M1 have any cold start cylinder wear protection that any other oil wouldn't possess?
Old 02-08-2018, 01:47 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by curtsr
Pretty much what I was getting at, does M1 have any cold start cylinder wear protection that any other oil wouldn't possess?
Compared to any other top 20 oils, not really. But compared to all 200+ oil brands, types, and styles, probably.


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