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Well, the news just gets worse. I finally got down to the crank, to find my worst fears come true. #6 con rod bearing totally missing and crank trashed.
#6 cyl and piston skirt scored.
Note heat damage on rod and cap. This engine must have run for some time in this condition.
What at to do what to do next? Used engine? LS swap? Total rebuild?
Cosmo nailed it a few posts above. So the debris in the sump are the rod bearing shells? What was the history of the car again? Amazing the engine was still running with no rod bearing on #6.
Cosmo nailed it a few posts above. So the debris in the sump are the rod bearing shells? What was the history of the car again? Amazing the engine was still running with no rod bearing on #6.
i bought the car as a roller at a good price, only 58k miles, been a southern car all its life and never wrecked. Car is excellent inside and out and came with 2 sets of wheels and tires. PO told me it blew a head gasket, he had it repaired and was running normally. He decided to sell it, and a prospective buyer took it for a test drive and came back with a knock. Durametric showed About 800 ignitions in range 1 in the last hour of its life, and none inrange 2. Leakdown numbers were excellent all in the 3-5% range. Compression was also excellent all except #6.
Teardown showed evidence of milkshake that was not thoroughly cleaned out. All else as pictured in this thread, no sign of d-chunk and ironically IMSB is excellent. I think it is a classic case of AOS failure, milkshake, insufficient lubrication to cylinders and bearings, then bore scoring and ultimately rod bearing failure.
i bought the car as a roller at a good price, only 58k miles, been a southern car all its life and never wrecked. Car is excellent inside and out and came with 2 sets of wheels and tires. PO told me it blew a head gasket, he had it repaired and was running normally. He decided to sell it, and a prospective buyer took it for a test drive and came back with a knock. Durametric showed About 800 ignitions in range 1 in the last hour of its life, and none inrange 2. Leakdown numbers were excellent all in the 3-5% range. Compression was also excellent all except #6.
Teardown showed evidence of milkshake that was not thoroughly cleaned out. All else as pictured in this thread, no sign of d-chunk and ironically IMSB is excellent. I think it is a classic case of AOS failure, milkshake, insufficient lubrication to cylinders and bearings, then bore scoring and ultimately rod bearing failure.
Sounds like the intermix condition had damaged the bearing the everything started to go down hill from there. The bottom end is junk for sure. Hopefully the heads are still good (no cracks).
So after researching the replacement short blocks available from Porsche, I’m leaning this way.
Dealer quoted me $6004 plus $2700 core charge! If I bring the core in at time of order, then don’t have to pay it.
Regarding the core quality: basically as long as parts are installed and nothing obvious like a hole in the block, etc, then it will be an acceptable core.
i was up front and told him the engine has lost a con rod bearing and crank was damaged. He said no problem, they replace the crank anyway!
So after researching the replacement short blocks available from Porsche, I’m leaning this way.
Dealer quoted me $6004 plus $2700 core charge! If I bring the core in at time of order, then don’t have to pay it.
Regarding the core quality: basically as long as parts are installed and nothing obvious like a hole in the block, etc, then it will be an acceptable core.
i was up front and told him the engine has lost a con rod bearing and crank was damaged. He said no problem, they replace the crank anyway!
From the other short block thread, they seem to be using new casings as well...makes me wonder what gets re-used at all.
Update: dropped the heads off at Hoffman Automotive Machine today. They are about 150 miles from my house, so rather than ship to them, I decided to drop them off personally. Met Len and Matt, great, totally honest guys and absolutely straight shooters.
They will evaluate them and if determined to be acceptable, refurbish for use. My thought is if the heads are good, I’m likely to buy a short block from Porsche and build the engine.
If they are determined to be not ok, then I have bad heads and a bad bottom end, therefore nothing to work with. The only option at that point is to look for a good used complete engine.
Update: dropped the heads off at Hoffman Automotive Machine today. They are about 150 miles from my house, so rather than ship to them, I decided to drop them off personally. Met Len and Matt, great, totally honest guys and absolutely straight shooters.
They will evaluate them and if determined to be acceptable, refurbish for use. My thought is if the heads are good, I’m likely to buy a short block from Porsche and build the engine.
If they are determined to be not ok, then I have bad heads and a bad bottom end, therefore nothing to work with. The only option at that point is to look for a good used complete engine.
They will be fine, Ken will probably up-sale you some new springs and guides . He can even fix a crack if need be, and they will be nice and fresh when you get them back. I think you can go ahead with your bottom end plans, Hamheads will fix you up.
They will be fine, Ken will probably up-sale you some new springs and guides . He can even fix a crack if need be, and they will be nice and fresh when you get them back. I think you can go ahead with your bottom end plans, Hamheads will fix you up.
Id wait until the shop that has my heads before I would make plans on the rest of the motor.
Id wait until the shop that has my heads before I would make plans on the rest of the motor.
I think the worse case scenario is a head is cracked, if so, there is an easy crack $450 and a hard crack $750, then a good valve job and ultrasonic clean. Last heads I sent to him had the hard crack, went all out for the new springs and guides, and nothing fancy mild port and flow work on the bowl area, heads trued ect ect , all in $2.3k. That was a few years ago but should not be too far off.
We all know that M96 engines don't blow head gaskets, so if the PO just replaced the head gasket there is a 99% chance the problem was (and still is ) really a cracked head. Several shop that I know can fix the cracked heads, Ken is probably the best.
02-21-2018, 09:00 PM
