Repaired hood emblem
#1
Track Day
Thread Starter
Repaired hood emblem
My 996 was covered with a clear bra, likely from the factory. It looked terrible and need to go. It must have been applied with the emblem removed and I needed to remove the emblem to remove the mess. I tried to remove the nuts holding it on as gently as possible but both broke.
I cleaned up the posts and emblem. Then I used a high powered soldering iron and some good rosin flux to tin both the emblem and posts separately. Once both were tinned I heated up the post and emblem with the soldering iron and flowed everything together. The rosin flux makes a bit of a mess and needs to be cleaned. Leaded solder helps and a high quality, high power soldering iron is a must. I've soldered 2 pennies together with it just playing around so I figured it might have enough power to fix the posts.
I was concerned the heat may damage the finish but it looks the same as it did when I removed it from the car. Figured this might save someone $128 or whatever they cost. The total repair was 20 minutes or so.
I cleaned up the posts and emblem. Then I used a high powered soldering iron and some good rosin flux to tin both the emblem and posts separately. Once both were tinned I heated up the post and emblem with the soldering iron and flowed everything together. The rosin flux makes a bit of a mess and needs to be cleaned. Leaded solder helps and a high quality, high power soldering iron is a must. I've soldered 2 pennies together with it just playing around so I figured it might have enough power to fix the posts.
I was concerned the heat may damage the finish but it looks the same as it did when I removed it from the car. Figured this might save someone $128 or whatever they cost. The total repair was 20 minutes or so.
#3
Track Day
Thread Starter
Thanks! And thanks for the link. I'll order a replacement when I order some other stuff. For now it went back on with the original gasket. I wonder if the dealer put the bra on? It looks like it has been on there for a good long while and it is on the hood, fenders around the lights, bumper, behind the front wheels, under the gas cap, mirrors and probably some other place I forgot. It fits perfectly and doesn't look hand cut.
#4
Rennlist Member
I seriously doubt a dealer would put on a clear bra...
#6
Drifting
Nice save. They aren't cheap ($150-ish?), so it's great to hear that it is repairable.
#7
Rennlist Member
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#8
Thanks! And thanks for the link. I'll order a replacement when I order some other stuff. For now it went back on with the original gasket. I wonder if the dealer put the bra on? It looks like it has been on there for a good long while and it is on the hood, fenders around the lights, bumper, behind the front wheels, under the gas cap, mirrors and probably some other place I forgot. It fits perfectly and doesn't look hand cut.
Also, did you notice any fading issues along the termination line of the bra?
#9
Track Day
Thread Starter
Curious on how you removed the clear bra? I have a 2004 that the original owner had Xpel installed (in 2004) on front bumper, half way up frunk and front fenders, under gas cap and on mirrors. The clear bra is showing its age but my paint is fantastic.
Also, did you notice any fading issues along the termination line of the bra?
Also, did you notice any fading issues along the termination line of the bra?
#10
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Curious on how you removed the clear bra? I have a 2004 that the original owner had Xpel installed (in 2004) on front bumper, half way up frunk and front fenders, under gas cap and on mirrors. The clear bra is showing its age but my paint is fantastic.
Also, did you notice any fading issues along the termination line of the bra?
Also, did you notice any fading issues along the termination line of the bra?
If you're lucky, you'll have little to no glue residue left behind.
If there is glue behind, use an adhesive remover, or goo gone-like product.
As for discoloration of paint under clear bra, depends on film and how much sun exposure. With older films, area under the film will have a deeper look because less UV was able to penetrate.
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#11
Steam is one of the safest way to remove clear bra.
If you're lucky, you'll have little to no glue residue left behind.
If there is glue behind, use an adhesive remover, or goo gone-like product.
As for discoloration of paint under clear bra, depends on film and how much sun exposure. With older films, area under the film will have a deeper look because less UV was able to penetrate.
If you're lucky, you'll have little to no glue residue left behind.
If there is glue behind, use an adhesive remover, or goo gone-like product.
As for discoloration of paint under clear bra, depends on film and how much sun exposure. With older films, area under the film will have a deeper look because less UV was able to penetrate.
The XPEL material still looks intact with no cracking or yellowing just a few areas (especially on front bumper) of some orange pealing. The car also appears to of always been garaged based on condition of paint and interior but obviously cannot confirm this. I am concerned of paint damage (clear coat) during removal (have read this on other sites) but even more concerned that if I leave it on longer it will be even harder to remove and/or may cause damage during removal.
Any input by you or others would be greatly appreciated. Hate to damage paint due to limited orange peal and a few nics in clear bra by removing but also would like to have a better overall finish on my car.
#12
For those entrusted in the topic of removal of the clear bra, I have started a new thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...a-removal.html
I hope to hear from you.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...a-removal.html
I hope to hear from you.