moresyporsche

street use only What is the most bang for the dollar brand should i buy pads and rotors I had to pull the trigger and I went with Textar pads and Sebring Rotors I hope I won't be too disappointed thanks all

targa996

NYoutftr

I might be selling complete set of textar , they have about 3000 miles on them , will try to take some pics soon for you
David

Water Hound

Using Textar rotors and Akebono pads. Really got tired of the massive black smudge all over the wheels from standard pads and am very happy with braking performance, consistency and no mess.

Prelude Guy

Anyone try these?

~$55 each is pretty good.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...an-40543048500

RennPart

We offer a complete set of four Textar drilled rotors and Textar pads for $435 to your door, send us a PM if you would like a formal quote!

dkraige

Meyle rotors and Textar pads will suit you just fine for the street and you can replace all 4 of each for about $400-500.

eaks

Does Akebono make pads for the 996 4s? I have looked and I think I found rears but no fronts.. I am looking for a low dust pad and I loved the akebono on my supercharged e46 (once they are broken in)..

Montychristo128

Yes according to Pelican they do.

You can try Jason at Warehouse 33 too, he's usually good for this type of thing and gives us a Rennlist Discount.

moresyporsche

NYoutftr , thanks for the info but I am from Minnesota and bought this car in LA California and I leave this coming Sunday and driving it back and it needs a brake job I'm kinda under the gun and I ordered Textar pads and Sebro rotors, thank you

moresyporsche

Thanks for the great response. Here's my story I live in Minnesota and bought a 2001 Carrera in Los Angeles. I am flying out Sunday August 27th and driving back Route 66, but before I take it down the road it needs Rotors and Pads. I have rented a garage complete with tools with a hoist for $25 per hour. Question I am a decent wrench but I'm getting a little older, I am thinking 6 hours to do all four wheels any idea what you all think I can get this done in how many hours? Look forward to your estimate and I am really looking forward to the drive back home

dkraige

How bad are the pads and rotors? A 2000-mile highway trip is barely going to use the brakes, so if they are not literally worn down to the backing plates I don't see a reason to change them until you get home. Even if they're well below the legal thickness limit, they'll still stop the car fine, and then you can fix them up before getting the car inspected and registered in MN.

You just risk opening up a can of worms if you suffer a part failure while doing the job remotely. What happens if you go to remove a caliper mounting bolt and it snaps, or the threads in the upright pull out? Now you're hosed and you have to wait days for expensive special-order parts. What if the rotor mounting screws are seized in place and you don't have the tools to extract or drill them out?

Just something to consider. If the car is drivable now and safe, I'd drive it home and then screw with it at your leisure.

If everything goes well, your 6 hours will be more than enough. With a lift and good tools a brake job should take half that. I'm just thinking of what happens if something goes wrong.

DBJoe996

This is correct. Be prepared for damnable rotor set screws seized. And get new caliper bolts to go with the project. They are considered one time use although many re-use them. But if one is seized and breaks? That will take some extraction time but if you have new ones to go in, not so bad. Good luck.

dkraige

You just never know what you'll find. The first time I took a caliper off, I found the previous person had cross-threaded one bolt and just cranked the f*ck out of it to get it to tighten down, I guess figuring "well, I'm never going to replace the brakes again, so this only needs to go back together once". It was jammed in so tight that the first socket I used immediately snapped. I finally got it out with another socket and horrific use of an impact wrench, but in the process of removing it, it totally wrecked the threads in the upright. The only way to properly fix it was to remove the whole upright and install a timesert. Which was not a big deal when I was at home and had other cars to drive to work and time to wait on parts in the mail, but if I'd been on the road somewhere it would have been a total disaster. It was 100% safe to drive before I started messing with it, though, since that bolt was not going anywhere.

In contrast I once drove a car home from a race track with one of the pads worn entirely down to the backing plate after the last bit of friction material evaporated during my last session. It was fine, it just made a nasty grinding noise on stops, but it was time for new pads and rotors anyway, so I didn't really care about what I was doing to the face of the rotor. That was about a 300 mile trip and frankly you really only need to use the brakes a handful of times if you're driving proactively. No problem!

numbah9

Am I the only one that doesn't bother to use the set-screw? Though my car has wheel studs, not bolts...