simonheo

Hi Guys,

Time for a new clutch and looked at few options.

1. Pelican Parts Stage 1

2. Replair kit from Suncoast : http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PK993TTCLUTCH.html

3. FVD Sport Clutch Kit

Any advise?

Thank you.

Simon

OverBoosted28

Sachs 764 PP, 4.0 GT3 disc, LWFW. You won't be disappointed.

simonheo

Hi Over boosted,

But i wont be tracking the car.. its just city driving..

DiegoR

Then go with the OE replacement....

OverBoosted28

Regardless, it's still the best way to go. :-)

ronnie993tt

Make sure you try this before you buy it. It's wayyyy different. I'm with Diego: stock for the road.

PiB993

Can you elaborate on 'wayyyy different' I'm looking to get a new clutch etc. this year to improve drivability. I don't mind nvh - I just want to be able to start and stop on a steep hill easily. Currently, my clutch engages really high and has a very narrow engagement period. My mechanic even commented on it. But - it doesn't slip yet. I would like better engagement and the revs to drop quicker. I'm the third owner so I don't know for sure how the car was treated before me. 24,xxx miles and no intentions to increase power. Thoughts and ideas appreciated.

chsu74

I am a fan of LWF, 750PP clutch setup. Its not going to be a GT3 or NA 993 setup with the turbo hydraulic slave cylinder. However, it not a stock feel either.

Mike J

Lots of variables. If you want the car to rev easier, dump the dual mass flywheel - which then means you need to replace the pressure plate and clutch disk with something else. A common replacement is the GT3 disk, no problems with that - where I do have a problem is the pressure plate selection. There is a large tendency to put in much stronger pressure plates than is needed on these cars, if you are street driving and not modifying the car, then you do not need a pressure plate capable of handling 550+ HP - all it will do for you is possibly give a sharper engagement point which is annoying in traffic, and add wear on the clutch fork and slave cylinder since it takes much more pressure to open the clutch.

I have had issues with my "upgraded" PP (3082 213 136 as supplied by Kevin), my car is stock and I really did not need that sort of clamping pressure, but I thought, why not.? I sourced the PP from Kevin and ran it - and was never happy. The engagement point was very very close to the floor, and the engagement was sharp. I thought perhaps the clutch needed bedding in (which took a few years since I do not drive it much) but that did not change the engagement point. I contacted Kevin, he basically said too bad, live it it, that is the way it is". I also contacted Sachs, and after several emails with those idiots later, still did not know why the PP engaged so low.

By that time, I hated the engagement so much that I pulled the clutch out, and measured the PP heights to the standard clutch - and they were significantly different, in fact it explained by it took way more stroke in the pedal to disengage the clutch. NO support from Sachs and Kevin ignored my questions, so I ended up sucking up the loss off the cost of the PP, installed a "standard" one, and it's really good now. Remember I do my own work, dropping a tranny is not a big deal.

I even removed the hydraulic assist and am running a manual system with a MPL slave, lots of good feel, engagement and weight are perfect, am happy now except for the boat anchor near-new pressure plate on the shelf. I cannot even get information from Sachs to determine if its defective and should be thown out.

What was long winded, but what I am saying is sometimes staying close to stock is a good thing - upgraded to a RS flywheel if you want (you will get rattling in the tranny at idle though) - but for a stock car, remain close to stock.

Cheers,

Mike

PiB993

Sheesh. Maybe just an RS flywheel then? I'll talk to my mechanic - he has a turbo. Might let it slide for another year Had a great drive on La Honda Road this weekend Hwy 84