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Warning, Oil Thread! Miles and Time intervals?

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Old 11-22-2014, 01:31 AM
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PiB993
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Default Warning, Oil Thread! Miles and Time intervals?

What intervals are you doing between oil changes for street driving?

I just did circa 1 year 3000 miles with Mobil 1 V-twin 20w-50 and it's soo clean I don't see why I don't go beyond 1 year. There is high silica possibly because my air filter hasn't changed in at least 6000 miles.

As a base line to learn my car I figure I should go for longer intervals now I think. No?

Thanks guys. I thought about posting in the 993 forum but with the turbos maybe it's different. Sorry for the size/format.

ps - got the golden rod and it's so much more NORMAL.
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Old 11-22-2014, 01:25 PM
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ronnie993tt
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I'm no expert so I spoke to Mobil oil engineers on 2 separate occasions. They are easy to reach for phone chats. I use M1 V Twin and drive between 1,000 and 1,600 miles a year, most of it highway speed, no tracking. Advice was that oil would last much longer and to do it every 2 years/4,000 miles at most. Also said oils take 1,500 miles to break-in so actually better to leave it in. I've also spoken to a couple collectors of gazzilion dollar Ferraris that do under 500 miles a year and they do it every "couple" of years. My tech also says every 2 years so that's what I do. As for your oil analysis, I have no idea but am interested in knowledgeable comments.....
Old 11-22-2014, 01:51 PM
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LexVan
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Change every year. Change every 5,000 miles. WECF.

What air filter are you running? Your silicone is high.

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Old 11-22-2014, 02:07 PM
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OverBoosted28
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Originally Posted by ronnie993tt
I'm no expert so I spoke to Mobil oil engineers on 2 separate occasions. They are easy to reach for phone chats. I use M1 V Twin and drive between 1,000 and 1,600 miles a year, most of it highway speed, no tracking. Advice was that oil would last much longer and to do it every 2 years/4,000 miles at most. Also said oils take 1,500 miles to break-in so actually better to leave it in. I've also spoken to a couple collectors of gazzilion dollar Ferraris that do under 500 miles a year and they do it every "couple" of years. My tech also says every 2 years so that's what I do. As for your oil analysis, I have no idea but am interested in knowledgeable comments.....
If an employee at any manufacturing company, tells you not to spend money annually, then that would seem credible to the quality of their product and knowledge of it. The common denominator nowadays is to lie through your teeth to make the sale/profits. Chaulk one up for M1!
Old 11-22-2014, 03:20 PM
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ronnie993tt
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Originally Posted by OverBoosted28
If an employee at any manufacturing company, tells you not to spend money annually, then that would seem credible to the quality of their product and knowledge of it. The common denominator nowadays is to lie through your teeth to make the sale/profits. Chaulk one up for M1!
Engineering, not marketing!.....and the 3 indies I asked. They kissed $120 in labour goodbye at a time of year they're not very busy. Definitely going to keep that air filter refreshed more often than the manual recommends though.
Old 11-22-2014, 07:05 PM
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Quadcammer
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5,000 miles and at or about 1 year. M1 Vtwin
Old 11-23-2014, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by PiB993
What intervals are you doing between oil changes for street driving?

ps - got the golden rod and it's so much more NORMAL.
I do mine once a year, no matter what., just prior to winter storage.

Pls explain to me this "golden rod" upgrade

Thx.
Old 11-23-2014, 11:10 AM
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Your viscosities are both WAY OFF for Mobil V-Twin 20W50. So is your zinc and phosphorus.

What oil did you run in 2013? I don't think it was Mobil V-Twin, was it? It was something else. Right?

That oil from 2013 is still "washing" through your system. It's bringing your SUS 210 viscosity down. It should be much closer to 100.

Your cSt 100 is also way low. This should be 20 or higher all-day-long.

You should also be seeing zinc in the levels of 1,500 PPM and phosphorus in the 1,350 range.

I would expect your next UOA to improve. Only your Alum. level looks good at 3. Your iron at 12 is high. With a healthy engine, this level will get closer to 7 using V-Twin. Same with your copper. You are very high at 18. Look for this number to start dropping into the 4 range.

Lastly, using OE Porsche engine air filters, your silicone should be closer to 3. You must be running some aftermarket air filter (maybe K&W) or have a air leak someplace.
Old 11-23-2014, 11:15 AM
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Oh, in the future, don't pay Blackstone extra money to test your TBN. It's unnecessary. If you change your oil yearly, AND every 5,000 miles, those numbers will always be fine with V-Twin. You're not trying to extend your oil change interval, you're trying to extend your air cooled motor's life. Now, do the right thing!
Old 11-23-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by LexVan
Your viscosities are both WAY OFF for Mobil V-Twin 20W50. So is your zinc and phosphorus. What oil did you run in 2013? I don't think it was Mobil V-Twin, was it? It was something else. Right? That oil from 2013 is still "washing" through your system. It's bringing your SUS 210 viscosity down. It should be much closer to 100. Your cSt 100 is also way low. This should be 20 or higher all-day-long. You should also be seeing zinc in the levels of 1,500 PPM and phosphorus in the 1,350 range. I would expect your next UOA to improve. Only your Alum. level looks good at 3. Your iron at 12 is high. With a healthy engine, this level will get closer to 7 using V-Twin. Same with your copper. You are very high at 18. Look for this number to start dropping into the 4 range. Lastly, using OE Porsche engine air filters, your silicone should be closer to 3. You must be running some aftermarket air filter (maybe K&W) or have a air leak someplace.
Very helpful LexVan. Thank you.
Old 11-25-2014, 01:55 AM
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I think the air filter had not been changed since I have owned the car actually!
Old 11-25-2014, 02:47 PM
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I change mine every 2 years, maybe 1500 miles and both oil filters. Oil is cheap, engines aren't
Old 11-25-2014, 06:10 PM
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I'd rather change the oil filter than the air filter.

It's probably me... but getting that airbox cover is one of the most stressful items to perform. Mostly b/c it's supposed to be so easy... and it just isn't It's horrible. I'd rather jack the car up, take the wheel off, pull the wheel well out (to get to big filter), change both filters, and change the oil rather than fit the airbox cover back on correctly.

Airbox cover fit: work 5 min, step back shout expletives for 1 min, walk around scratching head 1 min, repeat this process 10x=70min

Oil change: work nice and methodical 15min, sip of suds 1 min, repeat 5x=65 min and a lot more fun
Old 11-25-2014, 06:25 PM
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PiB993, I'm still curious about the oil that was in the car at the 10/23/13 change. Do you remember what it was, brand and viscosity?
Old 11-25-2014, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by shhhzaammm
I'd rather change the oil filter than the air filter.

It's probably me... but getting that airbox cover is one of the most stressful items to perform. Mostly b/c it's supposed to be so easy... and it just isn't It's horrible. I'd rather jack the car up, take the wheel off, pull the wheel well out (to get to big filter), change both filters, and change the oil rather than fit the airbox cover back on correctly.

Airbox cover fit: work 5 min, step back shout expletives for 1 min, walk around scratching head 1 min, repeat this process 10x=70min

Oil change: work nice and methodical 15min, sip of suds 1 min, repeat 5x=65 min and a lot more fun

So this means you must be trying to get the airbox cover off W/O removing intercooler? Can't see what else would make it so hard for you. I'll take tackling the airbox over getting to #6 plug any day.


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