More mods/turbos/inlet plumping/fuel system/exhaust/clutch
04-16-2014, 06:36 PM
#31
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Mike J
I used off the shelf mandrel bends. 2 180s and 4 90s I then did some mock ups and then drew up the cross over section. I cut the tubes on the milling machine adding indexing notches that I could use to assemble. I messed up here and there but over all come out ok. I did consider connection the left to right but wanted to try this set up first.
Mike
I used off the shelf mandrel bends. 2 180s and 4 90s I then did some mock ups and then drew up the cross over section. I cut the tubes on the milling machine adding indexing notches that I could use to assemble. I messed up here and there but over all come out ok. I did consider connection the left to right but wanted to try this set up first.
Mike
(asking because I have been considering doing something similar ... )
Cheers,
Mike
04-16-2014, 06:49 PM
#32
Racer
Thread Starter
About the clutch,
I don't have much for pictures but here's what I got. This is the C5 corvette setup.
I machined the cover to convert the clutch into a "pot style" clutch. Then bought the heavy tilton flywheel.
Kinda a PITA capping off the power assist lines and bleeding the throwout bearing. I had to make a clutch stop on the slave cylinder to limit the travel so I won't over travel the throwout bearing (HRB).
Driving the tilton. Well the clutch feels heavy to hold depressed at a stop light. The disengagement point is all the way depressed for 1st or come up to a stop and selecting gears. The engagement (release) is about half way up the travel. It's weird the engage and disengage are at different points along the travel.
It takes a bit of learning but the clutch has allot of slip and is easy to launch. Not as easy as the 764 PP+gt2 disc but not bad at all. I find if you very quickly depress the clutch all the way and shift the action is much smoother than soft and slow pedal action.
The bad news is that this clutch causes my transmission to rattle. Sounds like marbles in my transmission. After to talking with G box this seams to be normal. The rattle was less when i put the rubber motor mounts back in and ran heavier gear oil.
The clutch holds the power with out any signs of issue but I haven't had any real demands of it yet. Still working thru the reassembly/test short list.
I don't have much for pictures but here's what I got. This is the C5 corvette setup.
I machined the cover to convert the clutch into a "pot style" clutch. Then bought the heavy tilton flywheel.
Kinda a PITA capping off the power assist lines and bleeding the throwout bearing. I had to make a clutch stop on the slave cylinder to limit the travel so I won't over travel the throwout bearing (HRB).
Driving the tilton. Well the clutch feels heavy to hold depressed at a stop light. The disengagement point is all the way depressed for 1st or come up to a stop and selecting gears. The engagement (release) is about half way up the travel. It's weird the engage and disengage are at different points along the travel.
It takes a bit of learning but the clutch has allot of slip and is easy to launch. Not as easy as the 764 PP+gt2 disc but not bad at all. I find if you very quickly depress the clutch all the way and shift the action is much smoother than soft and slow pedal action.
The bad news is that this clutch causes my transmission to rattle. Sounds like marbles in my transmission. After to talking with G box this seams to be normal. The rattle was less when i put the rubber motor mounts back in and ran heavier gear oil.
The clutch holds the power with out any signs of issue but I haven't had any real demands of it yet. Still working thru the reassembly/test short list.
04-16-2014, 07:40 PM
#33
Why do I feel so left out!
Rennlist Member
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WOW!!
Do you adopt grown men?
Fantastic outside the box thinking!
Do you adopt grown men?
Fantastic outside the box thinking!
04-16-2014, 08:28 PM
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
Mike J
For bends
Stainless headers
3130 Fiechtner Dr S, Unit A
Fargo, ND 58103
Tel: (701) 356-9467
Fax: (701) 356-9466
For the perf tube use http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/
for muffler packing use http://shop.steelwooldirect.com.
You'll need 4 1/2" tubing, I had it lying around. I'm not sure where to get it. Check Stainless headers
I made custom flanges. If you noticed the mufflers are tack welded on one end and have indexing screws so they can be re pack if necessary. Additionally if one wanted to you could put a cat in the top muffler.
The biggest PITA is cutting the tubing. If done right the entire cross over section can built and mounted to the car for the final measurements to the turbos.
I didn't use the ball socket connections or v bands, but in hindsight i should have because the warp age from weld the turbo flanges caused the tips to move enough to **** me off. I also over heated the flanges because I got a little carried away when welding.
If you need any more info don't hesitate to ask. PM me
For bends
Stainless headers
3130 Fiechtner Dr S, Unit A
Fargo, ND 58103
Tel: (701) 356-9467
Fax: (701) 356-9466
For the perf tube use http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/
for muffler packing use http://shop.steelwooldirect.com.
You'll need 4 1/2" tubing, I had it lying around. I'm not sure where to get it. Check Stainless headers
I made custom flanges. If you noticed the mufflers are tack welded on one end and have indexing screws so they can be re pack if necessary. Additionally if one wanted to you could put a cat in the top muffler.
The biggest PITA is cutting the tubing. If done right the entire cross over section can built and mounted to the car for the final measurements to the turbos.
I didn't use the ball socket connections or v bands, but in hindsight i should have because the warp age from weld the turbo flanges caused the tips to move enough to **** me off. I also over heated the flanges because I got a little carried away when welding.
If you need any more info don't hesitate to ask. PM me
04-16-2014, 08:58 PM
#35
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Great, thanks for the info!
Yeah, totally understand the movement of SS when welding, its definitely an art form to keep the shape and get it all welded up - its always a challenge not to have the piece really pull out of shape - you get going on a nice bead, and next thing you know, you have moved along enough to pull it out of shape, but the bead sure looks great!
Yeah, totally understand the movement of SS when welding, its definitely an art form to keep the shape and get it all welded up - its always a challenge not to have the piece really pull out of shape - you get going on a nice bead, and next thing you know, you have moved along enough to pull it out of shape, but the bead sure looks great!
