Anyone with experience with the 450 HP kits?
#16
Agreed $5k or less, Send Ecu to Todd ( 96 or 97), Rebuild 16's (16g's), 410 Diverters, Manual boost controller. Ive had at least 5 993tt's, all done a little different, This set up was easiest & VERY fast, this is a conservative loaded Dyno (probably 20% loss), I'd say 470Hp Easy on 91oct. You must set boost on Dyno in order to Tune right & check AFR's.
#17
This specific kit was somewhat of a bargain up until recently. One of the cheapest ways of getting the K24s. But now that Porsche has doubled the prices of this kit there are much better ways of getting 450-460HP. For example the cargraphic stage 2 kit for about half the price including installation.
#18
My advice (and remember I have a Ruf Turbo R) is to leave it stock. There are few places where 400HP isn't enough, and the small delta to 450 won't make a huge difference (except to your wallet). And while these kits all tend to be perfectly reliable... I'd stick to stock for even better reliability. But, trust me, I understand the temptation for more. And more.
In the long run stock is probably best, but the more I read, the more tempted I am, well at least to research it and understand it.
I tried to put an Eaton type TPC supercharger in my 997.1 4S, but it wouldn't fit. I drove a 997.1 4S with a VF supercharger in it and it was terrific. In the end adding a plenum, headers, 200 cell cats and performance exhaust really opened the car up nicely. The 993TT feels so smooth and powerful stock, I'm very curious what one feels like with the HP kits.
#19
#20
always
all things equal, most collector car buyers prefer and would pay more for a stock vehicle
all things equal, most collector car buyers prefer and would pay more for a stock vehicle
#21
Yeah it just isn't worth it. If it's unmolested best to keep it that way. I think you can "pretty them up" as long as they can go back to stock easily. Example is exhaust, steering wheel, shift ****, wheels, etc...
Best advise for P-car's if you like mods is get a 996TT and go nuts.
Best advise for P-car's if you like mods is get a 996TT and go nuts.
#22
There will always be the risk of damaging the engine. Even with leaving it stock. But the cargraphic stage 1 and stage 2 are based on the stock K16s and in the end you are getting about 12-16% HP increase. So that risk is very limited. To be on the safe side you could opt for installing the additional oil cooler. For the stage 1 kit cargraphic germany themselves found the additional cooler not necessary. Biggest bonus is probably the much nicer exhaust note you get with these kits.
#23
#25
This is just the standard x50 (or whatever it was called) package that was offered for sale on new 993TTs in ROW.
K24s, ecu, and tips.
Should work fine and drive like a faster but more laggy NA turbo.
There are cheaper and quite frankly better ways to get 450bhp.
cost to install is likely $1k or so.
K24s, ecu, and tips.
Should work fine and drive like a faster but more laggy NA turbo.
There are cheaper and quite frankly better ways to get 450bhp.
cost to install is likely $1k or so.
my 97 was delivered with X50 and 1 year later was upgrated with 450 Hp kit
what we called here in Germany WLS II
car has now 40k miles since then and run great, maybe with turbolag, but here on the Autobahn you can feel the difference
maybe is not the Money worth but they are rare and sought after
#27
I went the Protomotive route as well. 16/16g hybrids, ECU, 5 bar fpr, 710 DV's, electronic boost controller and I couldn't be happier. In recent months the car got a complete motor rebuild(it has 71k miles) and I added 3.8RS cams, upgraded retainers and valve springs etc and 100 cell Cats and I had thought I was happy with it before, now I ecstatic. Like others have said HP is addictive but what is nice is knowing there is a hard limit of HP for the stock internals so Ive just realized you can't got further w/o spending BIG $$$ an that helps subside that addiction. Now I'm moving on to more suspension mods hahaha.
In the end he cars feel really nice with a 100 more HP. For point of reference I recent had the car out at Willow Springs and while running 100octane an 1.1bar I was hitting 151 down the front straight. I was able to hang with a 997 Cup(yes a real Cup car not a modded GT3) down the front straight....but then it was gone lol. The track day is a whole other experience that I need to write in a new thread as the ol girl did pretty good.
In the end he cars feel really nice with a 100 more HP. For point of reference I recent had the car out at Willow Springs and while running 100octane an 1.1bar I was hitting 151 down the front straight. I was able to hang with a 997 Cup(yes a real Cup car not a modded GT3) down the front straight....but then it was gone lol. The track day is a whole other experience that I need to write in a new thread as the ol girl did pretty good.
#28
I went the Protomotive route as well. 16/16g hybrids, ECU, 5 bar fpr, 710 DV's, electronic boost controller and I couldn't be happier. In recent months the car got a complete motor rebuild(it has 71k miles) and I added 3.8RS cams, upgraded retainers and valve springs etc and 100 cell Cats and I had thought I was happy with it before, now I ecstatic. Like others have said HP is addictive but what is nice is knowing there is a hard limit of HP for the stock internals so Ive just realized you can't got further w/o spending BIG $$$ an that helps subside that addiction. Now I'm moving on to more suspension mods hahaha.
In the end he cars feel really nice with a 100 more HP. For point of reference I recent had the car out at Willow Springs and while running 100octane an 1.1bar I was hitting 151 down the front straight. I was able to hang with a 997 Cup(yes a real Cup car not a modded GT3) down the front straight....but then it was gone lol. The track day is a whole other experience that I need to write in a new thread as the ol girl did pretty good.
In the end he cars feel really nice with a 100 more HP. For point of reference I recent had the car out at Willow Springs and while running 100octane an 1.1bar I was hitting 151 down the front straight. I was able to hang with a 997 Cup(yes a real Cup car not a modded GT3) down the front straight....but then it was gone lol. The track day is a whole other experience that I need to write in a new thread as the ol girl did pretty good.
Please do post a thread about tracking/DEing your 993. I loved DE's in my 997, but am afraid to put my 993TT in a track.
#29
^ why would you be afraid of taking the car to the track, it's the only place you can actually drive the thing.. I think most would say our cars do pretty well at DE's (for average drivers). Even stock/better shocks can easily keep up with 996 gt3/early 997's/non modded 996 turbos. To keep up with the modded 996 turbos/stock 997turbo's/997 gt3's you need bolt on engine upgrades/aggressive alignment. Need quite a bit of suspension upgrades to keep up with 997.2 gt3/RS (but could still hang with them on the straights). Suspect I will be able to catch than my friends with newer cars with the engine upgrade this year (not that I couldn't last year ..). I don't spend enough time at the track to be a good driver and I won't be able to keep up with the modded (suspension) 997.2 RS in the corners but should do better in the straights. Hp is a great equalizer. You just have to be really careful with how you apply the loud pedal!
#30
I guess I'm more worried about damaging this car than my 997. I felt the 997 was more disposable. Depreciating asset vs appreciating asset. I am also concerned I won't be able to handle the car as well as the 997. I just need more time with the 993TT to build my confidence. The 997 really handled superbly.
The comment about getting a 996TT and moding it for the track is one I've thought about for awhile.
The comment about getting a 996TT and moding it for the track is one I've thought about for awhile.