carmstrongls1

That's the one

x98boardwell

Update...

Funny story, I purchased these in October of 2013 and just finished installing them (the 2 on the IC) tonight. Man, am I a procrastinator. Here is somethings i found out while in there.

1) No way I could install the passenger side pipe with the #5 spark plug connector being out. After installation there would be no way to slide that plug back in. If someone has done it I can't see how.
2) I did notice that after installation the right/passenger side boost pipe is pressing up against that same spark plug. Anyone else notice this? It almost indents the pipe some as well.
3) I was able to install the pipe on the right/passenger side without messing with the metal. With a touch of petroleum jelly on the outside of the pipe and a little near where it rubs against the spark plug wire and after some muscling I was able to engage the turbo and clamp it effectively. Removing the metal is probably the best idea but I was hoping to not modify anything if at all possible.

Now, on to the 3 small pipes. Does anyone have a pic of these on the car? What needs to be removed to gain access?

Thanks for any help! Was able to do a spark plug change as well so much happier as I didn't have a record of them it was done in the past.

Cheers,
Bryan

Derek_C

I purchased these in October of 2013 and just finished installing them (the 2 on the IC) tonight. Man, am I a procrastinator.

You're just very deliberate.

OverBoosted28

Bryan, they're really easy, but the bottom half are via Braille. One starts at the ISV, and the other 2 at each blow off valve. I would also replace the 20 yr old hose that mounts both diverter valves to plenum.
Maybe the valves, if they're original. (Rubber diaphragm inside will fail)

x98boardwell

Overboosted, what is the pipes you're referring to? Any pics or part numbers? My car does have a tendency to run around .02 bar (sometimes) when I'm just cruising and off boost.

Is there a parts diagram on those other 3 pipes to see the "routing" of them?

Derek_C, I wish that was the case. I bought knowing I would fix and figured it would be with engine out. Other than a slave cylinder starting to go bad (I know it's very challenging to install with motor in) the clutch is still holding strong and only a few weeps. 65k miles and still holding strong.

Thanks for any help,
Bryan

chsu74

Digital boost gauge is inaccurate if you are going off the read out. Convert to a manual for accurate vacuum and boost numbers.

OverBoosted28

The pieces of hose, are just that. About 2-2.5" long, and just mount the diverter valves to plenum. When I did the 3 small ones, I just found similar heater core hoses. I then cut to length, and used extra to mount valves. The oem hoses are pretty thin walled. The stuff I used was heater core hoses, that are a lot stronger, and thicker. Use a mirror/scope, to look down behind everything, and you should be able to see what needs to be down by feel. A little frustrating since there's not a ton of room, and ya really can't see what yer doin. But still really simple. GL

OverBoosted28

Found some pics that might help. Red arrows show base of vales and small hoses that mount them. Yellow are where the other ends of valves terminate into plenum. There's a port at base of plenum directly below/behind ISV. There's 3 brass nipples pressed into plenum, where these 3 clamp on. The nipples are pretty short (maybe 1.5"-1.75") and you wanna make sure hoses clamp all the way onto nipples. Get new hose clamps all around. Text or call if ya get stuck. Also some pics of the heater core hoses I used for the 3 small ones.

JEllis

Reviving an old thread.

Are the S Car Go hoses still the best option?