993Godspeed

^^ Thanks Mike. I am doing the basic. Someone mentioned to change the distributor belt as well.

Do you guys think this is something I could do on my own. I could handle myself with a wrench. Just don't know what I am in for if I start replacing all the below.

So far have , Ignition wires, Distributor Cap, Rotors, Plugs, Filters, Fan belt, Distributor Belt. Will change that and drive it and take it from there.

Car has 52K miles on it. Thanks for the advice, all.

Quadcammer

turbos don't have distributor belts as they only have one dizzy, as opposed to the 2 on the twin spark NA cars.

993Godspeed

^^See, there you go. Something new I learned. lol

993Godspeed

Started around 11 am this morning and have replaced all plugs with the exception of plug #6, gave up tonight. Will continue in the morning. The engine bay is gutted down but the damn power steering pump is blocking #6, can someone help me out and tell me how to get to it? I read somewhere from the bottom of the car remove some sheet metal. I did manage to see the corner and remove some sheet metal and was able to see plug 6, but there is the turbo hose (intake) blocking it off and the rear control arms. Am I supposed to gain access thru there? Oh boy.

Thanks!

Mike J

On a TT is not too hard - there is a little access hatch in the sheet metal - you need to work below, take the tire off, if you look at the sheet metal above the lower valve cover towards the front of the car, you will see that you can remove part of the sheet metal with two bolts (if my memory serves). Its still really tight in there, there seems to be only one way the plug wire will come out of the hole ( pull it straight out with the head between the suspension mount and body and then angle it - you will need to fiddle). Same goes for getting the sparkplug socket it, I usually just drop the socket in and have the right length extensions to make it work.

It sounds complicated but its not, just you have to fiddle a bit... after you figure it out its pretty easy.

Cheers,

Mike

993Godspeed

Thanks all for the great advice. Thanks Mike and Quadcammer. I seriously mean it. Yes Cyl number 6 was a PITA but man number 5 was even worse since it was under the power steering pump. . Did the plugs, wires, Distributor, rotors, filters and now she is straight, No misfire!!

Next up Belts and Fuel filter.

Does anybody have the boost diagram? I found about 1 or 2 hoses that were disconnected, my tech says they relate to the boost controller that sits right next to the MAF sensor and Airbox. I need to figure that out and then I am straight.

Mike J

Great news - good that the mis-fire is gone!

If funny, I think the difficulty of doing something on this car is all relative - it depends on experience, tools and even the size of your hands. For instance, people say that #6 on a NB car is almost impossible, I have done many and its not that hard, but it takes practice. Same goes for the Turbo, if it's your first time, sure all the plugs are a pain, you are doing them blind, you might not have the right combo of tools, or even that the feel is supposed to be to hit certain parts. For instance, I drop my spark plug socket into the head and then follow by the extension, and have a special adaptor for the extension only for the 4-5 sequence, and another extension (slightly different length) for #6. Once you have done this a few times, it will get smoother...

Cheers,

Mike

993Godspeed

Back at it again!

Car has developed kind of like a sputter and runs like crap! Brakes up from 3k RPMs and up. Appears to have a popping sound when standing still iddleling. My tech says its the Coil, how can I check if it's that?

I have changed in nearly 600 miles:
Plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, MAF, head temp sensor, 1 O2 sensor. Seems only thing left unturned is the Coil...

Should I get OEM? Or is there something better out there? Don't know what else it could be. Input appreciated.

OverBoosted28

Could be a number of things. How did it start? Were you into the boost and then it started? If so you have lost a hose off of one of about five places. Check both intercooler hoses at the turbos and the intercooler. I have had problems with the passenger side blowing off at times. If that's not it, it could be one of the boost blow of valve hoses which are buried behind everything. They're on the front of the motor at the base of intake area. They both have hoses which connect at the base of the manifold. If it's neither of those then check the IAC valve. That hose connects at about the same place as the boost blow of hoses. The three of them all end up in the same area which is just below the IAC. You can probably check these by brail without taking the intercooler off (maybe just the shroud). Start at each valve and feel down the hose to see if it's attached. I have done this immediately after pulling (limping) off the track while it's still hot. Not fun at all. I doubt it's the coil. If the coils bad it probably won't start as opposed to just running rough. Hope it helps. P.S. if it's one of the above mentioned hoses, I'd replace all of them or else you'll most likely be doing the same thing again when it blows off the next one. Once you fix a weak link you find the next one until they're all resolved.

993Godspeed

Thanks for the feedback!

It started about a month ago. Car was running good, and then all of a sudden this happened.

We checked for boost leaks and a series of things and nothing. I did check for unattached hoses and found one but that did not fix my problem. That's why we arrived at the conclusion. I have a spare Coil that someone lent me I will replace it and see what happens. Thanks.

OverBoosted28

Just realized what else it could be. I am sure it's your RUF bumper covers. Take them off immediately and ship them to me. That'll solve one problem......mine. :-)

OverBoosted28

Is the car stock? If not you might want to upgrade the ignition system. I was having some issues that I was able to chase down to not enough spark. Part of the fix was I installed a Crane E core coil. The best way is to install a CD ignition system but it's pretty involved. I still think your coil is going to be "on or off" won't or shouldn't be halfway. Check all connectors.

993Godspeed

Car is modified with the following:
GT3076HTA
60 lb injectors
Protomotive 100 Oct tune
Apexi AVC R boost controller.

Hahah on the bumper!

You think I don't have enough spark? It's got to be either the coil or the distributor. If this spare coil doesn't work I will just upgrade the ignition coils or go twin plug.

OverBoosted28

If your running that set up then I'm sure your running more boost. The stock plugs will not be adequate. The stock gaps will not do. More boost in the cylinders overwhelms the plugs ability to continue to spark or make a complete spark. Basically the pressure blows the spark out before ignition if that makes any sense. I was using Denso IK20's but went to the colder IK22's. They're gaped at about .020 which has solved the problem. This scenario is primarily if your only getting misses in the 4500-5500 range (boost). If your having poor idle and rough throughout the whole RPM range it could be vacuum leak(s). There is a large amount of small rigid lines with rubber elbows and connectors that all need to be in good shape and secure/connected. Keep at it. It feels good when you "finally" find the problem that no one else had any idea.

OverBoosted28

You could upgrade the ignition system without going twin plug by doing a constant discharge "CD" set up. Crane has a Hi-6 system that is almost plug and play. I would go with 8mm plug leads if I was to use this system just to be sure they're up to task. It's one of those " if you change part 'A' you better buy part 'B' & 'C' " as well. Presently I am still good with the coil upgrade and better plugs. If I run into future problems I'll jump into the CD system. Take care