2wd Conversion
12-25-2012, 04:07 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
2wd Conversion
Merry Xmas.
Almost done, just need to put the undercar panels back on. Thought I’d share again. There were a few points that were not very clear to me from reading all the previous posts on this subject that I’ll try to document. I didn’t find the central drive shaft a problem at all and could remove it by myself but had to be creative with making myself space…
The pumpkin ‘aka’ front differential was the major pain for me. Once I figured out how to make space by dropping the front suspension cross member more than the bolts allow by switching out to longer bolts, it was relatively simple – more on that later.
Also I didn’t understand that the shift box on our cars have the top half already welded into the tunnel and you had to cut off the top of the ‘new’ shift box or modify it to fit, so that it sits at the proper height, and the reason people weld it in. I bolted mine in after some modification.
I’ve also added the appropriate pages out of the work manual/torque specs at the end.
Almost done, just need to put the undercar panels back on. Thought I’d share again. There were a few points that were not very clear to me from reading all the previous posts on this subject that I’ll try to document. I didn’t find the central drive shaft a problem at all and could remove it by myself but had to be creative with making myself space…
The pumpkin ‘aka’ front differential was the major pain for me. Once I figured out how to make space by dropping the front suspension cross member more than the bolts allow by switching out to longer bolts, it was relatively simple – more on that later.
Also I didn’t understand that the shift box on our cars have the top half already welded into the tunnel and you had to cut off the top of the ‘new’ shift box or modify it to fit, so that it sits at the proper height, and the reason people weld it in. I bolted mine in after some modification.
I’ve also added the appropriate pages out of the work manual/torque specs at the end.
12-25-2012, 04:09 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
First set of pics for the central drive shaft mounting bolts, this allows the drive shaft to come down, giving some space for the pumpkin to sit down, but not enough…
12-25-2012, 04:10 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The manual talks about removing the front ‘A’ and loosening the rear ‘B’ bolts by 5mm to let the suspension component come down and letting the central drive shaft come down to give more space for the ‘pumpkin’ to come off but it was not enough for me by a long shot. This did allow the drive shaft to the wheels to come out, a few taps with a rubber mallet on a wooden dowel and out it came. The front sway bar could also be loosened and moved forward which gave more space, but again not enough for my pumpkin…
Last edited by Basal Skull; 12-25-2012 at 04:34 PM.
12-25-2012, 04:12 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I loosened the cross member back at the transmission by 5mm or so to allow the central tube to come down since I had to pull down on the tube quite a bit and was putting more pressure on the front trans mount (had to loosen /take off one side eventually anyways for the new front FD motorsports tansmount).
12-25-2012, 04:14 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I also had to loosen the suspension cross member that “B” bolt above attached to give more space for the pumpkin to come down, but, again it was not enough…
There was more than enough space to completely remove the sway bar though.
I backed out the cross member bolts quite a bit, removed the longer lateral ones completely. The steering rack was coming down so took a look at its connection and loosened the universal joint in side the car – this was straightforward since I had replaced the steering rack if you remember a few weeks ago. There was enough play in the joints so the rack could slide down without any problem. Despite all of this, I still couldn’t get the pumpkin out…
I needed to drop the suspension cross member down further than the threads would allow, so while lifting up on the cross member with my shoulder (now that I have a lift I can do this!!
), pulled out the original central bolts and replaced it with longer bolts I had lying around, but, still not low enough. I replaced the bolts again with the bolts from the sway bar which were quite a bit longer but with the same threads – so the cross member came down a good 1.5 cm or more. The whole bottom part of the suspension was hanging by these bolts… finally enough space and the pumpkin popped out!!
There was more than enough space to completely remove the sway bar though.
I backed out the cross member bolts quite a bit, removed the longer lateral ones completely. The steering rack was coming down so took a look at its connection and loosened the universal joint in side the car – this was straightforward since I had replaced the steering rack if you remember a few weeks ago. There was enough play in the joints so the rack could slide down without any problem. Despite all of this, I still couldn’t get the pumpkin out…
I needed to drop the suspension cross member down further than the threads would allow, so while lifting up on the cross member with my shoulder (now that I have a lift I can do this!!
), pulled out the original central bolts and replaced it with longer bolts I had lying around, but, still not low enough. I replaced the bolts again with the bolts from the sway bar which were quite a bit longer but with the same threads – so the cross member came down a good 1.5 cm or more. The whole bottom part of the suspension was hanging by these bolts… finally enough space and the pumpkin popped out!!
Last edited by Basal Skull; 12-25-2012 at 04:36 PM.
12-25-2012, 04:17 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Again I didn’t understand from previous descriptions that the top half of the shift box was already in the car welded in. To get the new box to fit at the proper height so that the tunnel cover didn’t need to be dimpled or moved down (I had made one out of aluminum for my short shifter already so having it a little lower was not really a problem but I wanted to put the box in at the proper level if possible). I decided to use the welded in nut on the top of the shift box (already in the car - for the rubber shift boot), to bolt up new my box but modified it as shown – drilled holes in just outside of the welded in bolt, cut the centre part out and bent it in so that the holes line up with the original bolt pattern - so that it was also shorter in vertical dimension. I was thinking about just cutting the top off and welding a tab on to it but thought might as well use the metal that was already there. (hope this is relatively clear…). I bolted up to the tunnel though the welded in bolts on the upper part of the box already in the car – used longer bolts so that the rubber boot can be put in place from above using nuts onto the end of the bolts that now extended up into the car. Seemed to be solid and work okay!
Last edited by Basal Skull; 12-25-2012 at 04:40 PM.
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12-25-2012, 04:31 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just need to make another tunnel cover out of thin gauge aluminum (with no depression) for more wt loss and reconnect my data logger in the cabin that I had to remove to get to the centre console. Should finish later today. Won't have a chance to see how it feels until the weather improves. Also need to have an alignment/corner balance.
Another fun project under my belt!
Can't wait til spring
Another fun project under my belt!
Can't wait til spring
12-25-2012, 04:58 PM
#13
Nordschleife Master
All I can say is wow. If I ever need some brain surgery (many say that I do), I'm coming to see you! You are amazing. You not only tackle difficult projects, but you are fearless and innovative.
12-25-2012, 07:00 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Hi Basal. This is quite an undertaking! I wonder if I can pick your brain about this area since its fresh in your mind. I'm gonna get under there to change out my VC. Since you have treaded into these waters, how much of this work do I need to do to access VC only. Do I need to take down the entire tube or can I get away from just pushing/sliding some of these components?
thanx a million
thanx a million
12-25-2012, 07:10 PM
#15
Three Wheelin'
Hi Basal. This is quite an undertaking! I wonder if I can pick your brain about this area since its fresh in your mind. I'm gonna get under there to change out my VC. Since you have treaded into these waters, how much of this work do I need to do to access VC only. Do I need to take down the entire tube or can I get away from just pushing/sliding some of these components?
thanx a million
thanx a million