manual clutch and steering
#16
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I will order a 993 slave.
Was thinking that the turbo slave might be okay since when you check the pentosin level, you pump the clutch pedal with the engine off until the accumulator is depressurized and the pedal firms up, but presumably it's still working with no pressure?
I will leave all the plumbing in still/try with just the belt off so I can go back to power assist if necessary.
Thanx
Was thinking that the turbo slave might be okay since when you check the pentosin level, you pump the clutch pedal with the engine off until the accumulator is depressurized and the pedal firms up, but presumably it's still working with no pressure?
I will leave all the plumbing in still/try with just the belt off so I can go back to power assist if necessary.
Thanx
#17
Instructor
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Ryojo, I await the report on the steering and how you like driving a none assisted car (brakes are next, not good humor, I know). I think it will bring the car to life through the steering wheel. Much the same as going to RWD.
That P/S line is just not a great design from the manufacturing aspect. Something you no longer need to worry about. I replaced mine with SS braided Teflon, (Aeroquip brake hose material). The metric adapter fittings are readily available. My factory line split at the track and the right side turbo started a pretty good burn on that side of the car. Other than the rubber engine pan gasket nothing else got really cooked. Went out quick once the Petosin stopped spraying.
It was the first day of a three day DE so I was determined to finish the weekend. Went down the road and found a shop with a TIG welder. Quite an adventure since I used his drill press as a welding table, the drill vise to hold the part, old welding helmet a TIG torch the was barely long enough to reach. Old and blind, I did not have my glasses I use for close work and he only had super large filler rods. I ended up using SS safety wire and squinting to see. The crack welded OK and along with a liter of Petosin the shop happened to have got the car going to run a couple of afternoon sessions. Long story to say check that line or better yet change it. That line falls into two categories, one that has already broken or one that has yet to break.
Rick
That P/S line is just not a great design from the manufacturing aspect. Something you no longer need to worry about. I replaced mine with SS braided Teflon, (Aeroquip brake hose material). The metric adapter fittings are readily available. My factory line split at the track and the right side turbo started a pretty good burn on that side of the car. Other than the rubber engine pan gasket nothing else got really cooked. Went out quick once the Petosin stopped spraying.
It was the first day of a three day DE so I was determined to finish the weekend. Went down the road and found a shop with a TIG welder. Quite an adventure since I used his drill press as a welding table, the drill vise to hold the part, old welding helmet a TIG torch the was barely long enough to reach. Old and blind, I did not have my glasses I use for close work and he only had super large filler rods. I ended up using SS safety wire and squinting to see. The crack welded OK and along with a liter of Petosin the shop happened to have got the car going to run a couple of afternoon sessions. Long story to say check that line or better yet change it. That line falls into two categories, one that has already broken or one that has yet to break.
Rick
#18
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Hi Rick
Have ordered RWD conversion pieces too...
The manual rack is on its way via usps...
I agree about that pentosin line, we tried to fix that line at the track too but didn't have a welder and tried a number of high pressure hoses and clamps but they all burst (tried 3 different hoses). I got quite good at replacing/threading that line into that distributor block... and finally gave up. When there's a relative known fail item, it affects your confidence in your car. But at least it's not like losing your right rear center-lock wheel that the new gt3/rs/turbo guys are dealing with!
I'll try to fit things over the winter and post impressions.
Ryojo
Have ordered RWD conversion pieces too...
The manual rack is on its way via usps...
I agree about that pentosin line, we tried to fix that line at the track too but didn't have a welder and tried a number of high pressure hoses and clamps but they all burst (tried 3 different hoses). I got quite good at replacing/threading that line into that distributor block... and finally gave up. When there's a relative known fail item, it affects your confidence in your car. But at least it's not like losing your right rear center-lock wheel that the new gt3/rs/turbo guys are dealing with!
I'll try to fit things over the winter and post impressions.
Ryojo
#19
Instructor
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Wow, I had a AN-4 line burst. I figured it was some hose material that got kinked or something. The fittings are reusable style I did here and they stayed on. That hose is rated at 3000 psi operating and 12000 psi burst. I just can't believe that line even saw half that pressure, even with a spike. If you had not mentioned your issues I would stick with thinking it was a fault in the hose, now I will need to revisit that system and double check things more often.
You are correct on the " when's the time bomb going off". Bad enough dealing with the ones you don't know about (yet), but knowing there is one sleeping never wears well on your mind. To that end I am getting quite a few water manifolds to weld up from GT3's and Turbo's. Not all of them fail at the glue joint but who wants to find out the hard way when they do. If your rear tires don't get washed down the guy behind is sure to find the swamp of coolant you leave behind. Some tracks will not allow the cars to run without the fix, even if you just run water. I know a few guys that are running the car until it fails. Just can't figure their mindset, if not looking after yourself how about you fellow trackies. To your point, how can they run with that time bomb in the back of their mind.
Good luck with the steering and RWD swap. Have you found a 2wd shifter tube mount housing yet ?
You are correct on the " when's the time bomb going off". Bad enough dealing with the ones you don't know about (yet), but knowing there is one sleeping never wears well on your mind. To that end I am getting quite a few water manifolds to weld up from GT3's and Turbo's. Not all of them fail at the glue joint but who wants to find out the hard way when they do. If your rear tires don't get washed down the guy behind is sure to find the swamp of coolant you leave behind. Some tracks will not allow the cars to run without the fix, even if you just run water. I know a few guys that are running the car until it fails. Just can't figure their mindset, if not looking after yourself how about you fellow trackies. To your point, how can they run with that time bomb in the back of their mind.
Good luck with the steering and RWD swap. Have you found a 2wd shifter tube mount housing yet ?
#20
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Yeah that glued on cooling fitting ordeal is a pita too. Had a friend's 996 turbo dump coolant in a tight corner at our local track and three cars spun out (including me) after him. Luckily it was one of the few corners where there was some minimal run off and no one was damaged. I couldn't figure out why my car lost traction all of a sudden mid corner. Another friend with a '10 gt3rs had his engine dropped this year to have the fittings pinned...
I'm having FD motorsports put together a 'kit' for the rwd conversion along with their mount to stabilize the front of the trans. If I remember correctly, you made one too but didn't think it was refined enough to sell?
I'm having FD motorsports put together a 'kit' for the rwd conversion along with their mount to stabilize the front of the trans. If I remember correctly, you made one too but didn't think it was refined enough to sell?
#21
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Yes I did a transmount. You remove the stock single mount. I used it all this year and grew to accept it. Still needs larger and softer bushings, pretty hard core right now. Over the winter I will machine some molds and have the local plastic shop pour me some softer durometer urethane bushings. Like your projects I will have to report in when completed.
Rick
Rick
#22
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Let me know if you need a hand during the conversions.
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#23
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