a Bad day for first drive in my RUF...
08-22-2012, 08:45 AM
#31
pm'd
pm'd thanks...
All the new hoses that are currently sold AFAIK are the orange ended reinforced ones.
Haven't seen a DIY per se, it's pretty straightforward. Most of us have had the intercooler off and thats requires the upper - hose to intercooler - end off. The lower part which is more tricky - hose to turbo outlet. Need to take the rear wheels off, and even then it can be hard/awkward to reach. Easier if you take the mufflers off but I rarely do that. To get breeze clamps on, most people have to trim the metal shroud around the turbo outlet to get the clamp to fit.
btw, I just use the stock clamps and don't have any problems. You just need to be careful about how the hose is seated and not to over torque/damage the hose. If you're using aluminum boost blow off/recirculation valve and have the option of changing the closing/opening pressure/spring, I'd use the softest spring.
Haven't seen a DIY per se, it's pretty straightforward. Most of us have had the intercooler off and thats requires the upper - hose to intercooler - end off. The lower part which is more tricky - hose to turbo outlet. Need to take the rear wheels off, and even then it can be hard/awkward to reach. Easier if you take the mufflers off but I rarely do that. To get breeze clamps on, most people have to trim the metal shroud around the turbo outlet to get the clamp to fit.
btw, I just use the stock clamps and don't have any problems. You just need to be careful about how the hose is seated and not to over torque/damage the hose. If you're using aluminum boost blow off/recirculation valve and have the option of changing the closing/opening pressure/spring, I'd use the softest spring.
08-25-2012, 06:14 PM
#32
Dropping the engine....
Well the PPI said damp timing chain cover which is normal to a point, looks like left and right timing chain covers are active leaks (not just damp) so going to just fix it once and for all both sides and the main timing chain case while I am doing the others as well... while engine is out we will check clutch life etc (which seems find but mine as well check)... any other suggestions on things to check and or replace while engine is out I am all ears.
This seems like a job (common issue) that will need to get done wether now or if I keep an eye on it down the road, so just doing it now...
New lines have been replaced from cooler to turbos held with the Breeze clamps as noted here on Rennlist..
Thanks all...
This seems like a job (common issue) that will need to get done wether now or if I keep an eye on it down the road, so just doing it now...
New lines have been replaced from cooler to turbos held with the Breeze clamps as noted here on Rennlist..
Thanks all...
08-25-2012, 06:19 PM
#33
Nordschleife Master
Mick,
While the engine is out:
1). change plugs unless its JUST been done.
2). see about changing the plug wires.
3). change the power-steering pump belt
4). clutch slave cylinder? Hard to know... maybe not a big problem with a C4S slave?
5). clutch accumulator? Oh wait... a C4S doesn't have one of these.
6). check the condition of the insulation blanket in the engine compartment.
Keep us posted.
While the engine is out:
1). change plugs unless its JUST been done.
2). see about changing the plug wires.
3). change the power-steering pump belt
4). clutch slave cylinder? Hard to know... maybe not a big problem with a C4S slave?
5). clutch accumulator? Oh wait... a C4S doesn't have one of these.
6). check the condition of the insulation blanket in the engine compartment.
Keep us posted.
08-25-2012, 08:15 PM
#34
S not C4s
its actually a Cs not a c4s.... RWD car... is it time to think about a LSD knowing the car was an S and not a Turbo? People said this was slippery but dam... I am mud sliding! ahhhhhhhh! But car will be a beast when all said and done!
Mick,
While the engine is out:
1). change plugs unless its JUST been done.
2). see about changing the plug wires.
3). change the power-steering pump belt
4). clutch slave cylinder? Hard to know... maybe not a big problem with a C4S slave?
5). clutch accumulator? Oh wait... a C4S doesn't have one of these.
6). check the condition of the insulation blanket in the engine compartment.
Keep us posted.
While the engine is out:
1). change plugs unless its JUST been done.
2). see about changing the plug wires.
3). change the power-steering pump belt
4). clutch slave cylinder? Hard to know... maybe not a big problem with a C4S slave?
5). clutch accumulator? Oh wait... a C4S doesn't have one of these.
6). check the condition of the insulation blanket in the engine compartment.
Keep us posted.
08-25-2012, 11:31 PM
#36
Race Car
I don't understand why you are dropping the engine. A small leak? Are there drips on the ground?
If you do drop it, Steve has a good list. Consider a lwf if you need a new clutch. I like mine. As Steve suggests, replace the clutch slave if it looks old. I replaced mine myself recently. It wasn't too hard, but would have been much easier off of the car. Part is less than $100. We don't have the clutch accumulator (clutch isn't assisted) so the system is less complex.
If you do drop it, Steve has a good list. Consider a lwf if you need a new clutch. I like mine. As Steve suggests, replace the clutch slave if it looks old. I replaced mine myself recently. It wasn't too hard, but would have been much easier off of the car. Part is less than $100. We don't have the clutch accumulator (clutch isn't assisted) so the system is less complex.
08-25-2012, 11:45 PM
#37
your car?
is your car also a s car and not start as a 993tt car?
Yes its not just damp but just crossed the line to be what we (mechanic and I) would call a leak as its starting a slight drip etc on both left and right etc...
Going to check clutch but praying thats OK...
anyone here done this same work and of so please chime in, doing all I can to self educate myself reading till my eyes bleed on this forum but hate to have it all back to together just to see I missed a special better O ring, seal, or what ever that would have been so easy to do when engine was out..
again thanks all for the input... much appreciated...
Yes its not just damp but just crossed the line to be what we (mechanic and I) would call a leak as its starting a slight drip etc on both left and right etc...
Going to check clutch but praying thats OK...
anyone here done this same work and of so please chime in, doing all I can to self educate myself reading till my eyes bleed on this forum but hate to have it all back to together just to see I missed a special better O ring, seal, or what ever that would have been so easy to do when engine was out..
again thanks all for the input... much appreciated...
I don't understand why you are dropping the engine. A small leak? Are there drips on the ground?
If you do drop it, Steve has a good list. Consider a lwf if you need a new clutch. I like mine. As Steve suggests, replace the clutch slave if it looks old. I replaced mine myself recently. It wasn't too hard, but would have been much easier off of the car. Part is less than $100. We don't have the clutch accumulator (clutch isn't assisted) so the system is less complex.
If you do drop it, Steve has a good list. Consider a lwf if you need a new clutch. I like mine. As Steve suggests, replace the clutch slave if it looks old. I replaced mine myself recently. It wasn't too hard, but would have been much easier off of the car. Part is less than $100. We don't have the clutch accumulator (clutch isn't assisted) so the system is less complex.
08-26-2012, 09:39 AM
#38
Race Car
Mick, if it gives you any comfort. Many important items were inspected and replaced as needed when the car was converted. Since you cannot do a turbo r conversion on a non-turbo engine, either a new engine was purchased or they ripped apart a used engine. Do you know what they did to yours? Either way, the RUF techs are very diligent in making sure everything is 100% while they are converting. So I expect you are good to go. The stuff listed above should be inspected and replaced because it is so easy to get to.
One thought. If the car has been sitting a while (many do), they start to leak when not used. Put some miles on it and see if the "leak" turns into a "seep". Most of these cars seep a little and that is acceptable. I wouldn't pull the engine unless absolutely necessary. I know that you are particular and want it to be like new, but sometimes and old aircooled engine does doesn't want to be brand new! It is part of the experience. Just my opinion and I fully understand what you are doing.
One thought. If the car has been sitting a while (many do), they start to leak when not used. Put some miles on it and see if the "leak" turns into a "seep". Most of these cars seep a little and that is acceptable. I wouldn't pull the engine unless absolutely necessary. I know that you are particular and want it to be like new, but sometimes and old aircooled engine does doesn't want to be brand new! It is part of the experience. Just my opinion and I fully understand what you are doing.
