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Winterization Question

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Old 01-17-2012, 01:59 AM
  #16  
Mike J
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Originally Posted by Quadcammer
Its not like the rings are going to rust to the cylinder walls in 3 months.
Actually, I have see this starting. A local mechanic showed me an freshly rebuilt engine that had been on the shelf for 3-4 months - he had to take it apart after the rebuild due to some issue, it was never started, and found a light coating of rust was starting on the inside bores of the cylinders, especially those that had the largest air displacement. We live on the Pacific coast, with humid ocean air, and the moisture in the air trapped in the cylinder was enough to at least start the process. I am not saying it was rusted solid in 3 months, and run-in engines may not be as prone to this, but in the right climate, corrosion can happen.

Cheers,

Mike
Old 01-17-2012, 10:57 AM
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sblaylock
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I'm using a CTEC charger from Canadian Tire, which looks very similar to the Porsche one. The cord is thin enough to close the frunk lid completely. Problem solved.

All this focus on the car is due to the fact I've only owned it since August, so I'm still in the "Honeymoon Stage". In five years it'll probably be sitting in the driveway covered in 6 feet of snow for the winter. Either that or I'll be driving it like my neighbor with his GT3. It must be a lease.

Scott.
Old 01-17-2012, 12:21 PM
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WRT to the frunk light, I find easiest to push down the lock mechanism until it clicks. You'll see the licht go out instantly. Then just lower the frunk lid closed. In April, remember to pull the frunk release first to "unlock" the mechanism. Also, frunk needs to be fully open, otherwise release won't work if the frunk lid is in contact with the latch.
Old 01-17-2012, 01:52 PM
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sblaylock
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Originally Posted by trinaia
WRT to the frunk light, I find easiest to push down the lock mechanism until it clicks. You'll see the licht go out instantly.
Perfect.

Thanks,
Scott.
Old 01-17-2012, 02:13 PM
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Quadcammer
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Originally Posted by Mike J
Actually, I have see this starting. A local mechanic showed me an freshly rebuilt engine that had been on the shelf for 3-4 months - he had to take it apart after the rebuild due to some issue, it was never started, and found a light coating of rust was starting on the inside bores of the cylinders, especially those that had the largest air displacement. We live on the Pacific coast, with humid ocean air, and the moisture in the air trapped in the cylinder was enough to at least start the process. I am not saying it was rusted solid in 3 months, and run-in engines may not be as prone to this, but in the right climate, corrosion can happen.

Cheers,

Mike
On motors that have not been run, I could see it in a humid environment.

Fairly dry garage with decent synthetic oil on an engine thats been run, it should be a non-issue.
Old 01-17-2012, 02:19 PM
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Mike J
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Don't forget on a never-run engine, there is likely more oil on the bores than a run engine, because of the lube used when putting in the pistons, etc. The bores on a run engine are quite "dry".
Old 01-17-2012, 06:39 PM
  #22  
Rick GT3
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what about tropic Winterization, in Puerto Rico???
just drive your car as fast you can.
just enjoying nice weather in the low 80's



Old 01-18-2012, 09:36 AM
  #23  
Kein_Ersatz
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Default Passing the time . . .

For those of us in the cold, north of mason-dixon line, this is how we past the days until the salt washes off the roads with the spring rains and we can drive again.

New thread idea , what oil to use . . .
Old 01-18-2012, 05:01 PM
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Damn, I have been doing this wrong for years. I drive all of my PCars straight through the winter in Philly. I understand doing this in Minnesota where there is snow on the ground for 9 1/2 months, but winters here aren't that bad.
Old 01-18-2012, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by UserA
Damn, I have been doing this wrong for years. I drive all of my PCars straight through the winter in Philly. I understand doing this in Minnesota where there is snow on the ground for 9 1/2 months, but winters here aren't that bad.
+1, especially this year.

Aside from the freak snowstorm in october (which I drove the 911 in), we've gotten like 1/4" all winter
Old 01-18-2012, 05:40 PM
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No HTwo O
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Originally Posted by UserA
Damn, I have been doing this wrong for years. I drive all of my PCars straight through the winter in Philly. I understand doing this in Minnesota where there is snow on the ground for 9 1/2 months, but winters here aren't that bad.
Originally Posted by Quadcammer
+1, especially this year.

Aside from the freak snowstorm in october (which I drove the 911 in), we've gotten like 1/4" all winter
It's not the snow, guys, it's the salt. Regardless my 2011 Explorer is my daily driver. The Porsches are sunny weekend day toys.
Old 01-18-2012, 06:14 PM
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Here's a shorter checklist.

MOVE SOUTH!!!!!!!!!
Old 01-18-2012, 08:18 PM
  #28  
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Little salt never killed anyone.
Old 01-18-2012, 10:00 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by No HTwo O
It's not the snow, guys, it's the salt. Regardless my 2011 Explorer is my daily driver. The Porsches are sunny weekend day toys.
fair point, but if it doesn't snow or ice, then ergo you don't get salt

You have a low mileage fairly pristine car I imagine. My old beater can handle some salt at this point in its life.
Old 01-19-2012, 02:28 AM
  #30  
Mike J
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Originally Posted by ScottMellor
Here's a shorter checklist.

MOVE SOUTH!!!!!!!!!
As a Canadian, I am about as South as I can go before those gun holding border guards stop me from long term livn'.....


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