Engine's out...What now?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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At the risk of abusing the resources on this site, here's what's going on. The fabulous car I was looking at last week,(see interminable posts) is now in the shop with engine out for necessary repair. The owner asked for a complete rebuild. I still want to buy this car. All I want is the offending cylinder corrected. Is there something I should have them check/do on my nickel while it's pants are down. Keep in mind that this car has only 24,000 miles and looks new and passed the PPI otherwise....and I don't care that the hood has been repainted. Thanks, and if you say, "shut up Chris, you are overdrawn"' I'll understand.......Chris
#3
Race Director
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um, I'm confused at this situation.
So the owner has the engine out for a full rebuild, but you only want a cylinder fixed. Are you guys in communication here about results and price?
If the engine is fine save for one hole, why not agree to do that...cheaper for seller, and you're satisfied.
So the owner has the engine out for a full rebuild, but you only want a cylinder fixed. Are you guys in communication here about results and price?
If the engine is fine save for one hole, why not agree to do that...cheaper for seller, and you're satisfied.
#5
Race Director
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I agree..but the way I see it, if he does a full rebuild (which runs more then a few thousand), I'm sure he will want a lot more money.
If only one hole is bad, the cost to fix is much lower and this translates to a happy buyer and a lower price.
If only one hole is bad, the cost to fix is much lower and this translates to a happy buyer and a lower price.
#7
Burning Brakes
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I would have been thrilled to buy this car at the asking price had it passed the leakdown. If the owner has a complete rebuild, not needed in my opinion, the asking price will no doubt increase. My question is this: assume I am buying the car for the original asking price, with seller paying for the repair to said cylinder, is there anything I should pay to have looked at/done while in there. At the moment I would have the intercooler hoses replaced per Steve and brake fluid flushed per Scott and belts replaced because I once owned a Corvair Corsa. Is there any thing I am missing?......Chris
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#10
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replace the motor mounts and switch out the dv valves for billeted ones, change the sound deadening insulation. while the clutch is out, change the rms .get the engine detailed, upgraded turbo check valves. all of this is easier to do now.
#12
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The asking price should not increase! You were supposed to be buying a perfectly functioning car at the original price, the owner is just correcting that situation. To many. the rebuild at 24K miles will hurt the value of the car. Don't believe me? Just look at this one that ended tonight...sure sounds like your car without the paint issues...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-...torefresh=true
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-...torefresh=true
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Got up to pee and thought I'd check this thread. First to Scott's point, I don't know what the owner meant by "complete rebuild" he told me that when I called him to give him the advice that RMG offered concerning running the car hard and rechecking the offending cylinder. We will speak in the am. I see it is the am, but later in the am since he probably wouldn' appreciate a call at this time. There are sure lot of upgrades being recommended. Steve's valve guide recommendation caused me to read the thread started by Scott, all 5 pages worth! It sure looks like the guides are an Achilles heal for these cars but I don't think it is reasonable to expect the seller to pay for upgrades, but I gather it is worth my while to (while the engine is out) pay to remove the other head and replace guides in 5 cylinders and install head, time cam, etc. on that side.The seller would pay for the one cylinder, reassembly and installation. Does that seem fair and smart? Plugs and wires I had intended to do and forgot to post.
For Parsonii: replace sound insulation with better, if so what. Same question as to motor mounts. I don't want stiffer mounts if increases NVH. What's a dv valve and what is the advantage of a billet one? I knew the water cooled engines had an RMS issue but the 993 as well? And finally, which upgraded turbo check valves? Thanks again to everyone. I have taken so long in responding here that I have to pee again...then I'm going back to bed.....Chris
For Parsonii: replace sound insulation with better, if so what. Same question as to motor mounts. I don't want stiffer mounts if increases NVH. What's a dv valve and what is the advantage of a billet one? I knew the water cooled engines had an RMS issue but the 993 as well? And finally, which upgraded turbo check valves? Thanks again to everyone. I have taken so long in responding here that I have to pee again...then I'm going back to bed.....Chris
#14
Race Director
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The asking price should not increase! You were supposed to be buying a perfectly functioning car at the original price, the owner is just correcting that situation. To many. the rebuild at 24K miles will hurt the value of the car. Don't believe me? Just look at this one that ended tonight...sure sounds like your car without the paint issues...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-...torefresh=true
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-...torefresh=true
Taking a car with 24k miles and suspect factory valve guides and doing a complete rebuild at a reputable shop does in no way lower the price or leave the price the same.
If you think you are buying any 15 year old used car "perfectly functioning", you are dreaming.
#15
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I have bought 2 "perfectly functioning" 15 year old low-mile 993's in the last 2 years, so I am not the one who is dreaming.