amazing that you've found 2 cars that have absolutely every single part functioning perfectly. must be luck.

that doesn't change the fact that the seller is not going to spend $15k on a rebuild and then leave the price the same.

then again, aren't you the fella that thought a 50k mile turbo was worth about 40k?

 

Sorry, you are confusing me with someone else I guess as I have never said a 50K mile Turbo was worth $40K.

 

A little off-topic, but do you have a recommendation for billet DVs?

Thanks!

 

I believe the EVO ones are the most recommended:

http://www.paragon-products.com/Bypa.../ebdv18k-b.htm

 

Also think about replacing knock sensors and cylinder head temp sensor.

 

I would definitely replace the clutch if you're removing the engine.

 

+1 And Kevin has made this recommendation too.

Cylinder Temp Sensor (only 1) 993-606-013-00 about $182.00 (Sunset price)

Knock Sensor 993-606-141-00 (2 needed) about $137.00 each

Also consider:

Throttle Position Sensor 944-606-116-01 about $118.00

MAP Temp Sensor 993-606-114-00 about $40.00

Other stuff not mentioned:

Fuel Filter
Gear Oil Change (75W90 Delvac)

 

Chris, as a side note, Turbo owners don't pee. We ****!

 

If I can get through this and actually own a turbo I will begin pissing immediately. Thanks for all the advice, it is much appreciated if a bit more than I planned for. All the guides are being replaced with the improved material and the many other recommendations seem reasonable. I do have a few questions. I have owned high performance cars and motorcycles for most of my long life and never replaced a clutch. Why would a tt need a clutch at only 24,000 miles, or is it just so damned expensive later? The same question pertains to the accumulator and slave. I look at some of these things as insurance. The premium being what you spend now to avoid a larger cost later. The problem for me is not knowing the likelihood of future failure and that is what is so fabulous about this board. I am looking forward to not only pissing but learning the secret handshake........Chris

 

Chris,

Why a clutch now? Mainly because the engine is already out. An OEM stock clutch kit is about $800. Labor would be minimal now at your point. My original clutch was replaced just this year at 50,000 miles. The last 18,000 miles were mine. First time I've ever replaced a clutch on a car. I'm hoping my new clutch last well over 50K.

Why replace the accumulator and slave? Just known weak spots in our cars due to age and the technology at the time.

 

Chris,

With the engine out, have them inspect the clutch... you don't want to do this labor twice, but no use replacing one that shows minimal wear. Clutch wear is a function of the skill of the driver... some clutches last forever.

On the clutch slave and accumulator... these are items that tend to fail on the turbos, and the slave in particular is very nasty to replace with the engine in the car. But its doable, so I would rely on the guys at Schneider to guide you. Be sure they replace the plugs... its a 30k mile thing, and plug #6 is nasty in the car.

On pricing... I think you should pay for all of the "upgrades" you want done, and the seller pays for the labor on the engine R&R and the valve job. Split the cost of the guides. You will end up with a car that is better than new (valve guides!!!!!) for little more than the original agreed upon price.

 

Thank you Steve, I think I will do it all unless the clutch looks fresh. The deal you described is exactly what I arrived at as fair. If the car had passed the PPI I was going to have Schneiders replace intercooler hoses, plugs and belts. Whatever that was going to cost with engine in (labor) less the labor cost with the engine out, I would add to the purchase price. How's that for complicating a simple deal. I barely understand my own explanation. The sad part is that the car won't be done for 2-3wks. Thanks again for your help.......Chris

 

I got up and pissed three times last night. Pissed me off to.
All I would do is the clutch, just for the hell of it. Plus you will know that nothing should go wrong with it. For the price it's cheap insurance.
I had a clutch done on my Turbo 3.6 when we had the leaks fixed and still think it was worth it. Even though the tech told me I was mad.
I wonder if he wee's or pisses? I'll ask him.