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Which wax is best?

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Old 06-29-2011, 09:52 AM
  #16  
parsonii
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Originally Posted by BLT4SPD
If you want durable and easy to apply, you’ll need to stick with the synthetic waxes. I was using Zaino and it’s a GREAT product, but personally, I have finally settled on the Einszett line-up of polishes and waxes. I just thought I was getting a little better value out of Einszett. Everything from the wife’s minivan to the 356 gets it. It can be bought from Autohaus, so I just order it when I have some other stuff coming and I get free shipping.

Plus, it’s made in Germany, so it HAS to be good…..right….right…..

http://www.1z-usa.com/einszett_car_wax.html
my favorite also
Old 06-29-2011, 01:31 PM
  #17  
cgfen
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Originally Posted by No HTwo O
Regardless of what wax and sealant you decide use for the final top coat, it's all about the preperation prior to that stage. Namely getting rid of any swirls and proper paint correction.
there's the correct answer.
proper pre-wax polishing is far more important than wax top coat.

I use Menzerna polishing products which have proven effective and easy to remove.

Craig
Old 06-29-2011, 02:26 PM
  #18  
ronnie993tt
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Well blow me away! I did one half of the hood on my 1974 260Z's original, well worn metallic blue paint, with Topcoat and the other with P21S. No comparison. The Topcoat is much shinier, thicker looking and covers nicks and scratches much better. Did the same test on the tt with the same result. The Topcoat was so much better, I recoated the P21S side with it. I sprayed it on glass, plastic, etc. Easy on, easy off, no white crap. Anyone know how this stuff lasts? As a novice I may be missing some colour or depth issues but I'm sold on Topcoat.

I use Optimum Polish II on an orange pad, followed by Optimum Poly Seal on a white pad - 2500 to 3000 rpm on a Porter Cable. Maguiars Scratch X on the bad stuf. So far I've found polishing technique is more important than the actual product. Special thanks to Danny for use of his products in this test.
Old 06-29-2011, 05:30 PM
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Mike W
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Big vote here for Rejex - cheap easy and does the job.......
Old 06-29-2011, 10:55 PM
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Zymol is over priced hype! The cheap Zymol is basically Turtle Wax.

There's Carnauba Wax and there's synthetic polymer....The polymer lasts longer because it bonds to the paint. The Carnauba has natural oils that can actually feed the paint but doesn't last as long. You need to decide which you want to put on your car.

We are of the Carnauba team. We've won Full Concours at Porsche Parade using a combination of Griots and P21.
Old 06-30-2011, 12:29 AM
  #21  
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I'm another fan of Ducora topcoat. Been using it for over a year with great results. Pics of my 85 turbo body are shown on the site. I have not submitted photos of my C4S but I am a fan of this product.
Old 06-30-2011, 12:58 AM
  #22  
10 GT3
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It really depends on what you want a wax to do. If it is shine, skip Zaino. I never won a single car show trophy with it. Meguires Professional Series No. 7 Car Show Glaze is the best for bringing trophies, I brought home 3 in a row when I switched. I learned about it from people who were winning classes at car shows. Downside is to keep that level of shine, you need to wax often. Zaino is less shiny, but it hides imperfections better and last about twice as long. For light oxidation in clearcoat, NuFinish works really well for older finishes. For removing light scratches, Mequires Cleaner Wax should be a staple. I always keep a bottle around, but use it only a scratch remover. If I am doing a full wax, I always use new microfiber pads. They are very cheap compared to getting scratches from contaminated old ones, so just buy new ones. For buffing out scratches, I just use microfiber towels.
Old 06-30-2011, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by RJT
There's Carnauba Wax and there's synthetic polymer....The polymer lasts longer because it bonds to the paint. The Carnauba has natural oils that can actually feed the paint but doesn't last as long. You need to decide which you want to put on your car.
So Top Coat is a polymer then? Is it bad for your paint? Does the carnauba help durability? I keep my cars a long time so I'm most interested in preserving paint.
Old 06-30-2011, 09:56 AM
  #24  
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I went to order the Ducora Topcoat but found they wanted to charge $16 for domestic UPS ground shipping of a 16 oz bottle. no thanks
Old 06-30-2011, 10:26 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 10 GT3
It really depends on what you want a wax to do. If it is shine, skip Zaino. I never won a single car show trophy with it. Meguires Professional Series No. 7 Car Show Glaze is the best for bringing trophies, I brought home 3 in a row when I switched. I learned about it from people who were winning classes at car shows. Downside is to keep that level of shine, you need to wax often. Zaino is less shiny, but it hides imperfections better and last about twice as long. For light oxidation in clearcoat, NuFinish works really well for older finishes. For removing light scratches, Mequires Cleaner Wax should be a staple. I always keep a bottle around, but use it only a scratch remover. If I am doing a full wax, I always use new microfiber pads. They are very cheap compared to getting scratches from contaminated old ones, so just buy new ones. For buffing out scratches, I just use microfiber towels.
aye, this is a disaster of a post.

You realize, i hope, that #7 is a glaze, not a wax, and offers no protection. In fact, all it is doing is using fillers to hide imperfections in the paint.
and cleaner wax is a POS that has no real purpose.

The LSP (last stage product) should simply protect, it should offer no correction whatsoever.

Prep the paint properly, and you won't need those fillers, because there will be nothing to fill.
Old 06-30-2011, 09:25 PM
  #26  
justin993
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Carnauba for the 993 P21 and even the cheep turtle wax

I've been using the Meguire's tech wax on my 05 F-350 and my 08 F-450 trucks. Probably have used it for the last 4 years and/or whenever it came out. I'm really happy with the way it has held up the finishes on 2 trucks that sit outside. It also seems to hold up to many washes between applications (every 2 to 3 months).
Old 07-01-2011, 12:33 AM
  #27  
JJayB
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Originally Posted by cgfen
there's the correct answer.
proper pre-wax polishing is far more important than wax top coat.

I use Menzerna polishing products which have proven effective and easy to remove.

Craig
Exactly! Over time paint looses its oils and needs to be replunished. Wax doesn't have enough oils to do this and that's why you need to use a polish like Menzerna (which is the best I've found). Here's the Cliff notes.
1. Wash car
2. Clay car
3. Polish with Menzerna or other quality polish for two stage paint.
4. Apply wax, I use Zymol with Meguires glaze using an orbital.
5. Collect trophy at car show.

Jimmy
Old 07-01-2011, 10:33 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JJayB
Exactly! Over time paint looses its oils and needs to be replunished. Wax doesn't have enough oils to do this and that's why you need to use a polish like Menzerna (which is the best I've found). Here's the Cliff notes.
1. Wash car
2. Clay car
3. Polish with Menzerna or other quality polish for two stage paint.
4. Apply wax, I use Zymol with Meguires glaze using an orbital.
5. Collect trophy at car show.

Jimmy
what? Oils in the paint? Come again? Automotive paint these days is water based, and once the VOCs evaporate and the paint is dry, there are no oils to replenish.

Polish does not replenish any oils, it is simply abrasives in a carrier solution. its sole purpose is to use that abrasive to round the edges or flatten scratches in the clear coat. In fact, most good detailers will, after applying and removing the polish with a mf towel, wipe down the surface with an alcohol based product to remove any solution residue.

Once again, if you correct the paint properly, there is no use for a glaze that fills in scratches with fillers, since there are no scratches to fill in.
Old 07-01-2011, 07:57 PM
  #29  
JJayB
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Originally Posted by Quadcammer
what? Oils in the paint? Come again? Automotive paint these days is water based, and once the VOCs evaporate and the paint is dry, there are no oils to replenish.

Polish does not replenish any oils, it is simply abrasives in a carrier solution. its sole purpose is to use that abrasive to round the edges or flatten scratches in the clear coat. In fact, most good detailers will, after applying and removing the polish with a mf towel, wipe down the surface with an alcohol based product to remove any solution residue.

Once again, if you correct the paint properly, there is no use for a glaze that fills in scratches with fillers, since there are no scratches to fill in.
QC,
The problem in posting Cliff Notes someone wants to prove they read the whole book.

First, water soluble paint DOES have water soluble oils and if you do some research you'll find that polishes are more than just an abrasives that add emollients and nutrients to the paint that is a FACT. Check out the fact sheet on Meguriers products. Better yet go to their detailing school and they will hammer that point home.

Every detailer has their own technique, I just happened to share one of mine that has proven to be a show winner.
Old 07-01-2011, 09:41 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JJayB
QC,
The problem in posting Cliff Notes someone wants to prove they read the whole book.

First, water soluble paint DOES have water soluble oils and if you do some research you'll find that polishes are more than just an abrasives that add emollients and nutrients to the paint that is a FACT. Check out the fact sheet on Meguriers products. Better yet go to their detailing school and they will hammer that point home.

Every detailer has their own technique, I just happened to share one of mine that has proven to be a show winner.
I'm sorry, but I completely disagree. Paint is not nourished, nor does one provide it nutrients.

Please provide a link to a meguiars product that said it contains "emollients" and provides nutrients to paint.

Yes, you can add oils on top of paint...hell they do a reasonable job of making it shiny. Add that glaze you use, and you get a bunch of oils and fillers to cover up scratches.

Correct the paint with the appropriate polish...apply wax over the top...done.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...=define+polish

Nothing about nutrients in this description of polish by meguiars.

Nutrients in the product descriptions are simply a way to sell this product to the unknowledgeable.


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