eclou

Recently my starter went out and in diagnosing the "no start" condition I discovered the dreaded pentosin pool in the frunk and stiff clutch. Decided to tackle both jobs since they have some shared labor.

Replaced my starter last nite which was no big deal, new Bosch unit is smaller and seems to start with much more torque.

Today I go for the slave cylinder. I read the DIY and got tips from a local wrench. I have a 2 post lift so access was not tuff. Removing the unit was not too bad and I did not have to lower the engine mounts. Putting the new unit in sucked - used a pry bar to hold it in place while trying to thread in the nuts taped to a socket with the other hand. Eventually got it all together and started the bleeding process.

I used a Griot's pressure bleeder and initially had to actuate the clutch pedal by hand. Then the pedal seemed to lose travel and became very stiff. Car then would no longer start - seemed like the pedal was binding.

So I remove the starter again and then the slave cylinder. This allows both hands to "reach around" the tranny and get better tactile feel of the mounting studs for the slave, and I opened the rubber window so I could verify the slave plunger was resting in the clutch spoon/fork.

Re-assemble the slave and then the starter, re-bleed. Clutch still has only limited travel (although it is very smooth) and the car will not start - plenty of battery, alarm is working, DME relay is new, I hear the fuel pump running etc. No crank over whatsoever.

Basal Skull

not quite sure what you mean by limited travel of the clutch... so unable to depress completely?
There's a microswitch on the clutch pedal (I've tied mine with a zip tie so I can start my car without depressing the clutch), that needs to be depressed to start North American cars. Could that be the no start problem? Don't know why the clutch doesn't travel all the way though.

eclou

Problem solved!!!

I am guessing that the 1st slave installation did not have the piston engaging the clutch fork. When I was bleeding I felt a resistance and pushed through it a few pumps. This actually deformed/bent the clutch pedal arm which then did not let the clutch pedal go through a full range of motion - not enough to allow the clutch interlock to disengage.

I discovered this when I removed the wooden subfloor which also contains the clutch stop. When removed the pedal was freed enough to allow enough ROM for the clutch interlock to disengage. So I manually re-bent the clutch arm back to what looked like normal position and now everything works normally! The clutch is very light and smooth now, and engages very low compared to prior.

Quadcammer

glad you got it figured out. That slave is a big pain in the ***.

eclou

I rewarded myself with a quick Walrod Control Arm bushing job this morning. By comparison it was like rubbing tanning lotion onto some swimsuit model's back