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Old 12-30-2011, 09:16 PM
  #16  
Basal Skull
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I have this problem now. It's good to read things on rennlist even if it isn't a immediate concern it seems. I had noticed some wetness but though it was just from me filling oil too quickly as usual - but it's not oil. Just tightened the banjo since it was not very tight but the whole line is a little sticky/moist so suspect it needs to be replace. Had a friend a few years ago dump pentosin on the track with a lot of drama I suspect from this line failing. So just ordered one. Do you need to bleed the system somewhere once this line is replaced? I suspect one does.
Old 12-30-2011, 10:28 PM
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Mike J
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No bleeding required - its self bleeding. Just watch out, its the feed line from the small tank, so there will be Pentosin everywhere. You can pull some from the tank (I use large syringes) before you disconnect.

Cheers,

Mike
Old 12-30-2011, 11:19 PM
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Quadcammer
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The line that i had issues with was essentially just heater hose. The line was fine. I just needed some nice new hose clamps and to snug it all up.

good luck
Old 12-31-2011, 12:17 AM
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Basal Skull
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Originally Posted by Mike J
No bleeding required - its self bleeding.
Thanx that's great, wasn't really looking forward to playing around the slave area.
Old 12-31-2011, 09:44 AM
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solomonschris
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I hope you were successful. When we had hard to find leaks in the boat yard we would clean and dry all and then apply talc. This would clearly show leak location...sometimes multiple mirrors had to be used to see the leak......Chris
Old 12-31-2011, 12:17 PM
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Basal Skull
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Originally Posted by Quadcammer
The line that i had issues with was essentially just heater hose. The line was fine. I just needed some nice new hose clamps and to snug it all up.

good luck
So you just took the crimped part off and used standard clamps on the old hose? The line/aluminum block(check valve) vibrates on the rubber holder with the engine running and likely what leads to the failure of these. I'm thinking your standard clamp idea might even be sturdier (and cheaper).


Originally Posted by solomonschris
I hope you were successful. When we had hard to find leaks in the boat yard we would clean and dry all and then apply talc. This would clearly show leak location...sometimes multiple mirrors had to be used to see the leak......Chris
using talc is a good idea!
Old 12-31-2011, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Basal Skull
So you just took the crimped part off and used standard clamps on the old hose? The line/aluminum block(check valve) vibrates on the rubber holder with the engine running and likely what leads to the failure of these. I'm thinking your standard clamp idea might even be sturdier (and cheaper).


using talc is a good idea!
Yup, the factory put an oettinger clamp or whatever crimp clamp it is called.

I put a good old made in china worm clamp on there.

I'd imagine over time the crimp style just don't stay tight enough.
Old 01-08-2012, 01:22 AM
  #23  
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Just finished putting the new line in, PITA...had to undo the other line at the silver box/check valve to get this line off at the box. Used a crescent wrench to hold the box.
Supposed to be upgraded (apparently not too uncommon failure) and was going to take a pic but it looked virtually identical so didn't bother. I changed the gas filter at the same time. I changed the gas filter once before when I got the car but how I did it without taking this line off I can't remember.



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