Con rod question
10-29-2009, 01:47 PM
#16
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The stock rods are the same part number used in the 996tt & 997tt. Those guys have run some big power on the cars without a problem. That said I would still change them. I like the pauter rods.
10-29-2009, 01:48 PM
#17
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Interesting....and thanks Kevin for the info.
I am interested as maybe a "slip fit" if I ever decide I "need" my 7 tweaking to 900NM......
I know RS use Carrillo still but it took a while before they accepted Carrillo did the job. I will ask them about the Arrow stuff at some stage.
11-01-2009, 09:09 AM
#18
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I have been thinking more about the Arrow rods...
Can Kevin/Jon point me to some more evidence that they work in high torque 993/6/7 turbo application ?
Who has been using them, which cars etc, any racing ?
TIA
Can Kevin/Jon point me to some more evidence that they work in high torque 993/6/7 turbo application ?
Who has been using them, which cars etc, any racing ?
TIA
11-01-2009, 07:12 PM
#19
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I personally don't know of any Toby, but they supply to all aspects of motorsport from F1 to Moto GP. Have you heard something bad about them?
11-02-2009, 05:12 AM
#20
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I think any quality H section rod will be fine. I personally would avoid Ti, there are steel rods that are as light as their Ti counterparts, and being steel they are not life'd like the Ti rods.
Also, it is the rod bolts that are the week spot. Have been since day 1, all the way from the 930. Strangely Porsche decided to make the 996tt ones even weaker and are a full mm thinner than the 930 items. I think the recommendation with 930/965 was anything over 450bhp (well the torque equivalent) should have ARP or the like replacements.
Also, it is the rod bolts that are the week spot. Have been since day 1, all the way from the 930. Strangely Porsche decided to make the 996tt ones even weaker and are a full mm thinner than the 930 items. I think the recommendation with 930/965 was anything over 450bhp (well the torque equivalent) should have ARP or the like replacements.
11-02-2009, 05:12 PM
#21
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JBL 930, you told me that fitting Arrowhead rods is a good "while you are in there" precaution when replacing cams etc. Also with these rods there's no need to "split the case". Maybe a stupid question but does this "non-split-case" operation mean that the crankshaft will not be separated from the engine block during the process of replacing the cams? Reason for asking is because that would be a good time to get the whole crankshaft (with the new rods and everything) professionally balanced. It can make a small difference in acceleration but moreover the engine will rev quicker and higher if the balance is perfect.
11-02-2009, 06:12 PM
#22
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To get the crank out you would need to split the case.
My remarks about fitting rods while you are doing cams was down to there being reports about bent/stretched rods using the 520ps kit, which you were thinking of fitting. If you are having the cams installed then you have the engine out and the heads off, it's only a small step further to fit rods as long as they are simply bolt on. Carrillo's require the case to be split, the Arrow ones don't.
A stronger clutch seams to be the order of the day too...
If you want a higher revving engine then there is a lot more to it than just balancing the crank anyway, i'm no expert but everything from the valve train down needs to be modified. I guess it all depends on what you are aiming for.
What is the rev limit on the 520ps kit?
My remarks about fitting rods while you are doing cams was down to there being reports about bent/stretched rods using the 520ps kit, which you were thinking of fitting. If you are having the cams installed then you have the engine out and the heads off, it's only a small step further to fit rods as long as they are simply bolt on. Carrillo's require the case to be split, the Arrow ones don't.
A stronger clutch seams to be the order of the day too...
If you want a higher revving engine then there is a lot more to it than just balancing the crank anyway, i'm no expert but everything from the valve train down needs to be modified. I guess it all depends on what you are aiming for.
What is the rev limit on the 520ps kit?
11-03-2009, 11:21 AM
#23
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To get the crank out you would need to split the case.
My remarks about fitting rods while you are doing cams was down to there being reports about bent/stretched rods using the 520ps kit, which you were thinking of fitting. If you are having the cams installed then you have the engine out and the heads off, it's only a small step further to fit rods as long as they are simply bolt on. Carrillo's require the case to be split, the Arrow ones don't.
A stronger clutch seams to be the order of the day too...
If you want a higher revving engine then there is a lot more to it than just balancing the crank anyway, i'm no expert but everything from the valve train down needs to be modified. I guess it all depends on what you are aiming for.
What is the rev limit on the 520ps kit?
My remarks about fitting rods while you are doing cams was down to there being reports about bent/stretched rods using the 520ps kit, which you were thinking of fitting. If you are having the cams installed then you have the engine out and the heads off, it's only a small step further to fit rods as long as they are simply bolt on. Carrillo's require the case to be split, the Arrow ones don't.
A stronger clutch seams to be the order of the day too...
If you want a higher revving engine then there is a lot more to it than just balancing the crank anyway, i'm no expert but everything from the valve train down needs to be modified. I guess it all depends on what you are aiming for.
What is the rev limit on the 520ps kit?
