Hi all,

I recently attempted to change my slave cylinder and accumulator, but ended up not doing that and simply bleeding the clutch to facilitate driving to the mechanic. Well, the clutch engagement was very high when I got the car, but it is now PERFECT, just below the mid-way point. There was a thread about high engagement points and Kevin (and maybe Steve Weimer) recommended bleeding the system. There were many vocal doubters (including myself, though I didn't post my opinion) who believed that bleeding the system would RAISE the engagement point. Well, it doesn't. If your clutch is engaging near the top of its travel, I recommend giving the system a good bleeding. It will make a significant difference in the enjoyability of driving the car, especially in traffic.

Hope this helps someone,

 

It might help me :O) Since a new clutch was installed the biting point has been right at the top.

 

interesting point.

my 97 turbo has had a high engagement point since I got it with 4K miles...it now has 212K and still on original clutch...everytime I took it to the dealer (during warranty period) they told me I needed a new clutch...

 

Please outline what bleed process you used...

 

You need access to the slave cylinder bleeder screw (see Marc in AK's slave cylinder DIY thread). I had the engine mount nuts at the end of their bolts and the trans lowered an inch with that 6-bolt brace as I had been trying to RandR the slave, but that's not really necessary. This is how I did it, which may or may not be the correct way. If you break something, don't blame me please.

Remove the plastic trans cover and the cover between that and the front driveshaft (torque tube?) You can now see the slave (behind the driver's side (passenger's side in a RHD) heater tube) and the bleeder screw, which is silver but should have a rubber dustcap over it.

Remove the heater tube in your way by undoing the hose clamps at either end and unbolting it at two points from the car (hex bolts w/ nuts, one of mine had a washer). The one towards the front of the car requires that you stick your hex up through the hole in the support member the heaster tube is attached to.

Hook up a hose to the bleeder valve screw. You'll need an 11mm "midget" wrench to operate the valve, I used the closed end.

Now, fill the rear (engine) reservoir and the front (trunk) reservoir with Pentosin CHF 11S.

Use a power bleeder (I used the Motive bleeder for european cars) filled with Pentosin, attached to the trunk reservoir. I pumped the bleeder up to about 18psi, and it should be rested so the side that the tube attaches to is "down," so fluid will be pushed out, not air.

Open the bleeder valve and allow all the bubbles, air to escape. When only a steady stream of fluid comes out, shut the valve. It is nice to have a helper monitoring the power bleeder to make sure the pressure isn't dropping too much.

Now, tilt the bleeder's tube "up," so air will come out. Have a helper, and open the valve again until the "bubble" in the power bleeder's tube goes into the reservoir, so you can disconnect the bleeder without a spill.

I tried doing this first without a power bleeder, just pressing the clutch pedal and having a helper open the screw, but that wasn't getting me anywhere.

 

This sounds convoluted, but once you see everything it should make plenty of sense.

 

Yup, makes perfect sense. Thanks.

 

No problem, glad I could help.

 

Griot's Garage has a vacuum bleeder that pulls the fluid out through the bleeder screw. Easy to use for one person and relatively cheap($70). Also great for one man brake bleeds.

 

I like the power bleeder because you don't have to refill the cylinder as you bleed. Mine was about $40.

 

What / Where is the "rear (engine) reservoir"? The only Pentosin reservoir i am familiar with in the engine area = power steering ressie.

I have a 4S, are you referring to something Turbo chassis specific?

Thanks

Craig

 

Yes, Turbo specific

Like this thread and the section its in...

 

my pentosin reservoir is internally threaded, which means it won't work with the motive without an adapter.

I bled mine the old fashioned way without removing anything.

 

interesting, conventional wisdom = 4S Brake / Clutch system = the same.

learning all the time.

Craig

 

Brakes yes, clutch no. The tt has an assisted clutch - unique in the 993 range.