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Old 09-08-2007, 07:35 PM
  #61  
biiig-hp
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Jean, No I.T.B. on this motor. I had them on another motor and did NOT like them for the street at all. You end up losing a lot of tq. On the bottom end...... yes you gain hp but the only time you notice is on the track. That said you can’t go wrong on a track only setup!

As for going motronic, I couldn’t agree with you more on the knock sensors after my trip through the mountains this week. I run Todd’s mapping with k24’s and a profec right now and with the huge altitude change noticed I was having an over boost light come on. After I hit the reset I watched the gauge. It hit 1.8 bar!!!! How something didn’t blow I don’t know. I’m sure the program pulled out a tone of timing. Easy fix, I just dialled back the boost and on my way again.

the problem with me going Motronic on this motor is my tuner does not work with Motronic. Another problem is he is a great friend of mine as well so I would never consider having another tuner doing the tuning for this motor. The good news is This car NEVER and I mean NEVER see’s pump fuel alone. I keep a drum of VP fuel at home and constantly blend with pump fuel. Other safe guards I’m using is an AIM dash with dual lambdas , E.G.T. sensors, head temp sensors, air inlet temp before and after I.C. etc. I’m have a bunch of preset alarms set from fuel pressure to anything you can think of on this unit. I’ve built a lot of Porsches over the years and have a pretty good Idea of what can will and shouldn’t but does go wrong! The motor goes in this week so I’ll keep you in the loop.
Old 09-09-2007, 02:11 PM
  #62  
Jean
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Biig-hp

It seems like you have it all well sorted out, Bob H. has a lot of experience. It will be interesting to see all the info on EGTs, IATs etc.. on such a setup

Is your secan the race GT2 larger version (MAP setup) or the same size as TB993TT and MOD500?

The spikes happen sometimes when your Profec is not well calibrated, they don't do any damage to the engine but it is obviously better to avoid them, I doubt that the knock sensors have time to retard timing in such quick spikes that last a fraction of a second.

Thanks for the info and looking forward to see some pics and numbers
Old 09-09-2007, 02:39 PM
  #63  
WHB Porsche
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I think I've found the ultimate set for suspension, tires and wheels
Would you mind elaborating?
Old 09-09-2007, 04:12 PM
  #64  
biiig-hp
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[QUOTE=Jean;4558068]Biig-hp


Is your secan the race GT2 larger version (MAP setup) or the same size as TB993TT and MOD500?

QUOTE]

Jean it’s an old school race secan running a map (closed loop) setup. Should be interesting....
Old 09-09-2007, 04:41 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by WHB Porsche
Would you mind elaborating?

No problem. I had Pat Williams do some custom valving to his spec’s on some Moton clubsports and all the proper hardware to make them work properly. I run 700 1000lb springs with RS sway bars. The wheels are forgline ZX3R 18/9 18/12 with 235’s and 315’s yokohama A48. And the brakes are Brembo GTR 8 piston front and 4 piston rear.

I’ve had a lot of Porsches with many different suspension setups and I must say this is the most extreme change I have ever had. It just works! It is a bit on the bumpy side around town,,,,,,,, actually it’s very bumpy around town. But it’s absolutely a blast on mountain drives and INCREDIBLE on the track. I got 4 track days and close to 4000km out of these tires. Yes I’ll say that again. 4000km and 4 track days.

Same holds true for the GTR brakes. When I bought them I had a good feeling that it was going to be another case of diminishing return on investment. I just couldn’t justify the price but thought I’d give them a shot. Glad I did. This setup is tough to describe. Other than WOW.
Old 09-09-2007, 10:48 PM
  #66  
Tim Wasmer
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Where were you when I needed a torque tube

Good job!
Old 11-09-2007, 09:56 AM
  #67  
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Have anyone pictures from the result after all 4wd parts are out of the car?

What have to be change at the transmission?

Thanks a lot!

Greetings Christian
Old 11-09-2007, 11:05 AM
  #68  
Felix
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Umm... look at the first post in this thread!
Old 11-09-2007, 11:19 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by phelix
Umm... look at the first post in this thread!
Yes, is saw the picture!

I look for a picture from the Transmission back in car, without the tranny and a picture how the transmission looks like before it get back in the car!

Or is there nothing to change?

Transaxle away and transmission back in the car, plug and play?

Greetings Christian
Old 11-09-2007, 01:19 PM
  #70  
Felix
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OK, sorry. No need to remove the transmission; you can do the conversion with it in place. If you're really serious about weight reduction take the transmission out and remove the viscous coupler but that's not strictly required.
Old 11-09-2007, 01:54 PM
  #71  
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No need to touch the transmission. It stays in the car. The job should only take an afternoon...

Here is a picture with everything removed; you can see the nose of the transmission with the output shaft remaining. The new shifter box is not installed, nor is any of the shift linkage.

Old 11-09-2007, 02:10 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by phelix
OK, sorry. No need to remove the transmission; you can do the conversion with it in place. If you're really serious about weight reduction take the transmission out and remove the viscous coupler but that's not strictly required.
Thanks for info!

I was afraid, that it need works at the transmission housing!

And the viscous coupler i will put out too because the transmisson/engine will be remove to put in the LFW!

@Jeff: thanks for the picture!

Greetings Christian
Old 11-09-2007, 07:29 PM
  #73  
Jay993turbo
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Don't forget that minor spot welding is required to fit the new shift box that comes with the kit...
Old 11-10-2007, 12:27 AM
  #74  
raymondgo
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where can i get the shift box and the other parts required or parts no. pls
Thank You
Old 11-10-2007, 08:43 AM
  #75  
tar6day
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where can i get the shift box and the other parts required or parts no. pls
Thank You
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