Stopping with high MOD engines
#1
Stopping with high MOD engines
After reading all the posts all I find is that everyone talks about speed. Do any of you guys ever DE your cars or do you all just wash them (as your pics would imply) and pick up your dry cleaning?
I wonder, and please only reply if you drive your car at DE (all you others need not reply) what is the best brakes/rotors/pad combinations. I seem to go through all of them too fast.
I recently drove a well prepped 993 with a great suspension setup and had awesome overall track times because I hardly needed the brakes.
Might the MOD Twin turbos be too fast for DE? Seems like I need to brake too much to control the higher speeds.
I wonder, and please only reply if you drive your car at DE (all you others need not reply) what is the best brakes/rotors/pad combinations. I seem to go through all of them too fast.
I recently drove a well prepped 993 with a great suspension setup and had awesome overall track times because I hardly needed the brakes.
Might the MOD Twin turbos be too fast for DE? Seems like I need to brake too much to control the higher speeds.
#2
Originally Posted by Jsandak
After reading all the posts all I find is that everyone talks about speed. Do any of you guys ever DE your cars or do you all just wash them (as your pics would imply) and pick up your dry cleaning?
I wonder, and please only reply if you drive your car at DE (all you others need not reply) what is the best brakes/rotors/pad combinations. I seem to go through all of them too fast.
I recently drove a well prepped 993 with a great suspension setup and had awesome overall track times because I hardly needed the brakes.
Might the MOD Twin turbos be too fast for DE? Seems like I need to brake too much to control the higher speeds.
I wonder, and please only reply if you drive your car at DE (all you others need not reply) what is the best brakes/rotors/pad combinations. I seem to go through all of them too fast.
I recently drove a well prepped 993 with a great suspension setup and had awesome overall track times because I hardly needed the brakes.
Might the MOD Twin turbos be too fast for DE? Seems like I need to brake too much to control the higher speeds.
If your going through rotors and pads, obviously have heat issues.
Active brake cooling will go a long way in bringing down the temps. Before I'd go to bigger rotors and calipers, I'd start with Castrol SRF fluid, Pagid orange pads and a kit like Tech Art brake cooling ducts and hoses.
The twin turbos are too fast for DE's
#3
J
I support 100% what JJayB said (of course), use SRF, do a good bleeding job, use good pads with 50% life at least (Pagid or not), and get good air ducting to the brakes..Are you using stock rotors? Just make sure you are not using an aftermarket brand with doubtful quality.
Bigger rotors are a double edged sword, for DE's they are not a good choice (IMO) you might not get to optimum temperature with them even after several minutes at the track, factory racing cars use 380mm only for enduros and 24hour races.
I personallly have never felt my brakes fading, using stock pads and Pagid alike, that includes driving a 15 mile long track . A couple of tracks I have been to, have 150-160+mph straights before threshold braking and entering a turn in 1st-2nd gear. No fading at all even in 110-120 deg. ambient temps.
Make sure the cooling holes in your disks are clean of any rust and brake dust and round smoothly the holes well with a drill every couple of events.
BTW, I love washing my car and getting groceries and the laundry with it. It is good "bonding", ever washed 600 horses at once?
I support 100% what JJayB said (of course), use SRF, do a good bleeding job, use good pads with 50% life at least (Pagid or not), and get good air ducting to the brakes..Are you using stock rotors? Just make sure you are not using an aftermarket brand with doubtful quality.
Bigger rotors are a double edged sword, for DE's they are not a good choice (IMO) you might not get to optimum temperature with them even after several minutes at the track, factory racing cars use 380mm only for enduros and 24hour races.
I personallly have never felt my brakes fading, using stock pads and Pagid alike, that includes driving a 15 mile long track . A couple of tracks I have been to, have 150-160+mph straights before threshold braking and entering a turn in 1st-2nd gear. No fading at all even in 110-120 deg. ambient temps.
Make sure the cooling holes in your disks are clean of any rust and brake dust and round smoothly the holes well with a drill every couple of events.
BTW, I love washing my car and getting groceries and the laundry with it. It is good "bonding", ever washed 600 horses at once?
#4
I run my 993TT quite hard at the track and find the stock rotors and pads to be quite suitable with zero fade issues. I use SRF brake fluid. I've used Pagid Yellow pads and they are definitely better than stock pads in terms feel and wear; the stock pads wear out much faster. Granted my car is only running about 470HP so I may not be going as fast as some of you with the 600 horses
BTW - I've never personally washed my 993TT; I take it through a car wash now and then
BTW - I've never personally washed my 993TT; I take it through a car wash now and then
#5
During long run sessions, I notice some fading with stock pads as well (450hp). I just put in the Pagid Orange pads yesterday (I have a DE event this weekend). Unfortunately, they squeal like a tsunami siren when they're cold. It makes "picking up the dry cleaning" a lot less enjoyable. Once they heat up they're fine. My car sits on a trailer and is seldom driven between DE evens, so I don't mind at all.
#6
The stock brakes with hard pads, fresh fluid and cooling ducts were good. I wanted insurance when I went to 500+ hp, so I sprung for bigger brakes from StopTech. The rear brakes don't work all that hard, so only fronts probably made sense, but they had a front/rear package for the right price and I can rotate the front and rear pads now for even wear. I got slotted instead of drilled rotors because I figured more iron=better heat sink. Pretty bulletproof for DE, some pad transfer in front with the orange pads, but seems to be the best street/track balance for me and the rotors don't wear.
#7
Jsan,
Not too many garage queens here and you should look in Rennlist archives abit!
The (2) gentleman that responded to your post (Jean and Jay) have two of the fastest
993TT's in the world. CGT type fast
...Oh, did I forget to mention that Jay has a track record at his local (famous) track and
Jean ships his car to various track events in Saudi, Bahrain, etc. etc.
You are not talking the the Pebble Beach Concours DeLeGance contingent here,
these cars get used!
Oh, yeah mine had orange cone marks on the front bumpers when I sold it
(and pebble damage behind rear wheels from "quick starts" at local autocross)
MK
Not too many garage queens here and you should look in Rennlist archives abit!
The (2) gentleman that responded to your post (Jean and Jay) have two of the fastest
993TT's in the world. CGT type fast
...Oh, did I forget to mention that Jay has a track record at his local (famous) track and
Jean ships his car to various track events in Saudi, Bahrain, etc. etc.
You are not talking the the Pebble Beach Concours DeLeGance contingent here,
these cars get used!
Oh, yeah mine had orange cone marks on the front bumpers when I sold it
(and pebble damage behind rear wheels from "quick starts" at local autocross)
MK
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#8
I used the Brembo 14" rotors and F50 type front calipers along with the RS rear calipers with Pagid Orange Pads. My car was powered by hybrid K24s with 1.3-1.4 BAR boost (and some other stuff). Along with Motons, 12" wide rear slicks, 2wd, and only 2800 lbs it was generally one of the fastest cars on the track. It got to be boring. No one to play with, and only going from one car to another to pass.
#11
I am in a bad mood today so I will add: You don't have to be a DE driver to enjoy performance upgrades...and the true guys who do race their cars here don't seem to feel the need to brag about themselves...........
Last edited by Marc in AK; 04-17-2006 at 07:08 PM.
#14
It's Ok to get into it a little. I wouldn't recommend braking by ABS though, it's going to put a lot more force onto the rotors and generate more heat. Rotors are prone to warp this way, besides it's faster to threshold brake at right before where the ABS starts kicking in, at least with these ABS's IMO.
Thanks for the compliment, yours is looking good too.
Thanks for the compliment, yours is looking good too.
#15
Ok , so I will speak for the garage queens, there is room enough for everyone in the Porsche world... I drive with my mechanic and his crew on the track, they always have a terrifically prepared car for me to have fun in, and that saves the wear on my tt S, with 12k miles.. So as the lone garage queen owner here apparently , I speak loud and proud... LOL