Getting ridiculous...
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Okay, my 97 turbo has 162K miles with original clutch, turbos, pads, rotors, blah blah.... Yes, mostly highway miles, daily driver and no track time. But it still gives me a smile everyday after 8 years. Don't want another car (that costs under $200K
). Cosmetics of car are like new.
So when does it make sense to upgrade to a RUF R package? When the clutch goes? WHen I ultimately get an oil leak? When the turbos go? What makes sense?
thanks.
![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
So when does it make sense to upgrade to a RUF R package? When the clutch goes? WHen I ultimately get an oil leak? When the turbos go? What makes sense?
thanks.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's bloody amazing.. I love to hear stuff like this. A great reminder that we have tanks
I thought the 993TT that came in today had high mileage.. It was this rather rare White (never see them in that color) 96 993TT which had a Protomotive IC, Kevin's turbos and a few other odds and ends. Nice nice car even with 80K on the odo.
We were only happy to move the Watercooled babies out of the way
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
We were only happy to move the Watercooled babies out of the way
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the replies guys...
From a fun factor I know the time was yesterday...
I'm wondering more from a "technical/labor/cost" standpoint, when it might make the most sense as I do not have the knowledge of everything that goes into such a conversion.
Thanks again.
From a fun factor I know the time was yesterday...
I'm wondering more from a "technical/labor/cost" standpoint, when it might make the most sense as I do not have the knowledge of everything that goes into such a conversion.
Thanks again.
#7
Drifting
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: WEST SIDE OF MPLS, MN
Posts: 2,628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Call Wayne @ Ruf Auto Center in Dallas.
He will fix you up !!!
Cannot possibly go wrong with their complete conversion, and like
others said, you are more than ready for some freshening up.
Marty Kaye
He will fix you up !!!
Cannot possibly go wrong with their complete conversion, and like
others said, you are more than ready for some freshening up.
Marty Kaye
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You have to decide at what point at which it makes sense to you. Yes if the clutch goes out, or the turbos, etc. you may save a couple of dollars not doing the same work twice. But there is no compelling "I have to spend $1500 on the clutch so it makes sense instead to spend $30K for the next round of upgrades". Or I guess this could be a compelling reason for some. Personally, I would just either do it, or get Kevin's turbos and enjoy 500+ HP without the big expense of the RUF, unless you really have you heart set on it... Then as Marty said, the guys in Dallas at RUF are top notch.
The only time I can see where you will not be double spending would be when the engine needs a rebuild anyway. So maybe get a leakdown and compression test and see what the numbers say.....
The only time I can see where you will not be double spending would be when the engine needs a rebuild anyway. So maybe get a leakdown and compression test and see what the numbers say.....
#9
Drifting
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lee's Summit, MO. & 6mmLake of the Ozarks
Posts: 2,122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turbo-forum/234742-cost-of-ownership.html
This link above was the "Cost of ownership thread" just a short while ago. While your car is the exception for most as far as mileage its reliability is worth noting. I would be interested in your thoughts.
You have enjoyed the hell out of your car, good for you !!!
This link above was the "Cost of ownership thread" just a short while ago. While your car is the exception for most as far as mileage its reliability is worth noting. I would be interested in your thoughts.
You have enjoyed the hell out of your car, good for you !!!
#10
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
msw,
I have long maintained that clutch life is a function of driver skill and the sort of driving (abuse) that you are going to heap on your car. You are an excellent case in point.
When the previous owner of Rufus went for the Ruf Turbo R conversion at 86,000 miles, Ruf insisted on splitting the case and doing a ground-up rebuild in order to offer a warranty. I love the way the car performs, but feel that a "home grown" bolt-on job can acheive nearly the same peformance for about 1/2 the cost. Of course there is some prestige and resale value added for the Ruf. I think its a tough choice. On my car, they did the Turbo R engine, the big oil cooler, the full Ruf suspension, the Ruf 19" wheels, and Ruf pedals and mats. They tried a LWF, but the P.O. complained about stalling, so they out a new dual mass flywheel in. I have a complete LWF, RS clutch assy in a box.
If I were having the Ruf conversion done, I would insist on a new alternator, billet diverter valves, and RS engine mounts. I don't know if they change the MAF, but I hope so, and I hope they do new wires and all. Eventually, I'll get Rufus just exactly the way I want him, but in the meantime... he's quite amazing to drive.
Come on down to Morro Bay on Nov 12... a bunch of us are meeting at Taco Temple at 11:30am. You are welcome to take Rufus for a test drive. I know I won't have to worry about you wrecking my clutch!
I have long maintained that clutch life is a function of driver skill and the sort of driving (abuse) that you are going to heap on your car. You are an excellent case in point.
When the previous owner of Rufus went for the Ruf Turbo R conversion at 86,000 miles, Ruf insisted on splitting the case and doing a ground-up rebuild in order to offer a warranty. I love the way the car performs, but feel that a "home grown" bolt-on job can acheive nearly the same peformance for about 1/2 the cost. Of course there is some prestige and resale value added for the Ruf. I think its a tough choice. On my car, they did the Turbo R engine, the big oil cooler, the full Ruf suspension, the Ruf 19" wheels, and Ruf pedals and mats. They tried a LWF, but the P.O. complained about stalling, so they out a new dual mass flywheel in. I have a complete LWF, RS clutch assy in a box.
If I were having the Ruf conversion done, I would insist on a new alternator, billet diverter valves, and RS engine mounts. I don't know if they change the MAF, but I hope so, and I hope they do new wires and all. Eventually, I'll get Rufus just exactly the way I want him, but in the meantime... he's quite amazing to drive.
Come on down to Morro Bay on Nov 12... a bunch of us are meeting at Taco Temple at 11:30am. You are welcome to take Rufus for a test drive. I know I won't have to worry about you wrecking my clutch!
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks again for your replies...
Bob: sounds like good advice; will look into leakdown/compression testing @165K service.
Tom: Biggest factor I think is heat; with mostly highway miles, car runs very cool. Biggest costs first 80K miles were tires and oil; then per my mechanic, had the rear aligned at Custom Alignment in Mountain View - was only getting 4-8K miles on rears - now get close to 20K. Services have run around $800 to $1600 for each "15K" versus "30K" service. Hydraulic lifter collapsed around 40K miles (fixed with wrong part I learned later when it failed again around 90K). Other items: slave cylinder, accumulator, battery, windshield, steering column signal tree, fuel pump (@ 140K), bent rear rim, Bilstein HD's at 75K and 140K. That's about it...overall it has been super reliable and the fun factor has way overshadowed the cost.
Bob: sounds like good advice; will look into leakdown/compression testing @165K service.
Tom: Biggest factor I think is heat; with mostly highway miles, car runs very cool. Biggest costs first 80K miles were tires and oil; then per my mechanic, had the rear aligned at Custom Alignment in Mountain View - was only getting 4-8K miles on rears - now get close to 20K. Services have run around $800 to $1600 for each "15K" versus "30K" service. Hydraulic lifter collapsed around 40K miles (fixed with wrong part I learned later when it failed again around 90K). Other items: slave cylinder, accumulator, battery, windshield, steering column signal tree, fuel pump (@ 140K), bent rear rim, Bilstein HD's at 75K and 140K. That's about it...overall it has been super reliable and the fun factor has way overshadowed the cost.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Steve,
Thanks for the words of advice and the invite.
Unfortunately the schedule is kinda tight now (had twin girls 5 months ago
) and in the midst of a home remodel...free time on the weekends is scarce. But would love to hook up in the future.
Mike
Thanks for the words of advice and the invite.
Unfortunately the schedule is kinda tight now (had twin girls 5 months ago
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Mike
#13
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wow, that's amazing. My new brake pads were gone in 4 months, lol. If I remember correctly Rufus went for 42K on ebay (wish I'd bid on her, what a deal). I think Bob is right about going w/ Kevin's turbos although honestly 550 hp would be better than 480 hp.
#14
Racer
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Napa Valley California
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm so happy to hear that your car has given you so many trouble free miles of smiles. My girlfriend had 214k miles on her original clutch in her toyota 4 runner and she needed to put a new motor in as it had a bad valve and it was cheaper to put in one of the low milage motors from Japan than to do a valve job and when they inspected the clutch it still had over 50% life left of course we replaced it while we had it all apart. Doug