PPI and search ?
#1
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Depending on the geographic part of the country I find a car in;
1)Would I be better served to locate the closest P-dealer for a PPI
or
2)Ask here on this site about local mechanics that others have knowledge of, providing one even exists in that given area.
Also; who is hogging up all the lower mile 97tts out there. Alot of 96 models around right now for sale, but what gives. Is the market doing something or is it just a typical cycle and the 97 model years will show up if I quite whining and be patient. The production #'s are fairly similar, yet I have seen far more 96y on the market.
1)Would I be better served to locate the closest P-dealer for a PPI
or
2)Ask here on this site about local mechanics that others have knowledge of, providing one even exists in that given area.
Also; who is hogging up all the lower mile 97tts out there. Alot of 96 models around right now for sale, but what gives. Is the market doing something or is it just a typical cycle and the 97 model years will show up if I quite whining and be patient. The production #'s are fairly similar, yet I have seen far more 96y on the market.
#2
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As someone whos been turbo looking since the fall:
ppi - id choose a really good independent shop in the area. the dealers (especially at large dealerships) rarely give you enough time and attention and they often dont have a good eye for bodywork/paint which is just as important as mechanical stuff for a car that is 7-8 years old. Obviously, there are exceptions...
97 tt - i was far too picky in passing on a 97 last fall when it seemed everyone was selling and plenty were available. Im not sure it this is regular seasonality, but i think it also includes the improved economy (prices of everything seems to be rising), lack of production of 2004/05 996TT, as well as people seeming to realize that the 993tt is a classic - seems at least 2-3 car mags have listed it as top x? cars of all time - im not sure why people are just saying this today and not last year, but there is not a lot of supply. If you find a nice clean 96 at a good price - you can search here for many threads on the differences - not very different.
ppi - id choose a really good independent shop in the area. the dealers (especially at large dealerships) rarely give you enough time and attention and they often dont have a good eye for bodywork/paint which is just as important as mechanical stuff for a car that is 7-8 years old. Obviously, there are exceptions...
97 tt - i was far too picky in passing on a 97 last fall when it seemed everyone was selling and plenty were available. Im not sure it this is regular seasonality, but i think it also includes the improved economy (prices of everything seems to be rising), lack of production of 2004/05 996TT, as well as people seeming to realize that the 993tt is a classic - seems at least 2-3 car mags have listed it as top x? cars of all time - im not sure why people are just saying this today and not last year, but there is not a lot of supply. If you find a nice clean 96 at a good price - you can search here for many threads on the differences - not very different.
#3
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Rob, have you seen the blk/tan 96 up a HuntingRidge Motors thats in Port Chester? I spoke w/them and they want top dollar for it but its nice and I'm considering it. Its northeat of NYC, do you know of anyone the does a PPI in that area.
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i saw the listing for the black/tan. Im only looking for silver, so it doesnt work for me, but i have had many friends who have bought cars from huntingridge and they speak well of them. Have it checked out at Dan Jacobs (Hairy dog garage), or Jim Newton (automotive associates of canton).. both are among the best in CT. If you know of a nice SILVER TT, then please tell me.
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We get this type of question a lot so here is my input.
The pre purchase inspection is really a sequence of inspections. Normally, they won't be done in one day and not by one shop. The worst case scenario is that the buyer and the car are geographically far apart making this purchase more complex but the process is written to cover that issue. How far the buyer proceeds depends on the results of the previous step.
1. Get lots of details in writing (which should reduce misunderstandings later on) and appropriate photos. I say appropriate because photos for example, don't accurately depict the exterior paint condition, so you don't need five general photos of the glossy paint. Also find out if you will be allowed to have the car inspected at another shop(s) at your expense.
2. If the car is still a candidate, get an unbiased local Porsche enthusiast to give the car a first look on your behalf. Even if you can go look at the car yourself having another enthusiast's first hand opinion is valuable.
3. Test drive using 993 Turbo check list available on other web sites. Again an enthusiast that has one of these cars would be extremely helpful on a test drive.
4. If #3 goes well you are at a major decision point because you will have to spend some money for inspections. You may want to negotiate on a price and get a simple contract contingent on the results of the inspections prior to going any further. If you don't do this you are at risk. One scenario is that the car gets sold to someone else while you are still in the inspection mode. (Remember that you have invested some time and money in it especially with Step 5 onwards. You may have travel expenses too).
5. Paint and Body. Many buyers prefer that a good paint/body shop inspect it.
6. Overall Inspection. Porsche Dealer or independent shop, depends on their reputations and recommendations from enthusiasts in that area. There are checklists for all the inspection items available from various sources including Porsche dealers.
7. Engine Tests. Cylinder compression and leak down tests require removal of the spark plugs. Here is where the big labor time applies (dollars). It is very hard to get access to the spark plugs with the engine in the car. You also need a shop that knows what they are doing on these tests.
Finally, if you run into major issues on one of the steps and you still want the car, negotiate with the seller for a fair reduction in sales price or repairs at no cost to you. If you don't come to terms stop inspecting the car and right this one off.
The pre purchase inspection is really a sequence of inspections. Normally, they won't be done in one day and not by one shop. The worst case scenario is that the buyer and the car are geographically far apart making this purchase more complex but the process is written to cover that issue. How far the buyer proceeds depends on the results of the previous step.
1. Get lots of details in writing (which should reduce misunderstandings later on) and appropriate photos. I say appropriate because photos for example, don't accurately depict the exterior paint condition, so you don't need five general photos of the glossy paint. Also find out if you will be allowed to have the car inspected at another shop(s) at your expense.
2. If the car is still a candidate, get an unbiased local Porsche enthusiast to give the car a first look on your behalf. Even if you can go look at the car yourself having another enthusiast's first hand opinion is valuable.
3. Test drive using 993 Turbo check list available on other web sites. Again an enthusiast that has one of these cars would be extremely helpful on a test drive.
4. If #3 goes well you are at a major decision point because you will have to spend some money for inspections. You may want to negotiate on a price and get a simple contract contingent on the results of the inspections prior to going any further. If you don't do this you are at risk. One scenario is that the car gets sold to someone else while you are still in the inspection mode. (Remember that you have invested some time and money in it especially with Step 5 onwards. You may have travel expenses too).
5. Paint and Body. Many buyers prefer that a good paint/body shop inspect it.
6. Overall Inspection. Porsche Dealer or independent shop, depends on their reputations and recommendations from enthusiasts in that area. There are checklists for all the inspection items available from various sources including Porsche dealers.
7. Engine Tests. Cylinder compression and leak down tests require removal of the spark plugs. Here is where the big labor time applies (dollars). It is very hard to get access to the spark plugs with the engine in the car. You also need a shop that knows what they are doing on these tests.
Finally, if you run into major issues on one of the steps and you still want the car, negotiate with the seller for a fair reduction in sales price or repairs at no cost to you. If you don't come to terms stop inspecting the car and right this one off.
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Tom,
Another option for PPI from an independent would be Deman Motorsports in Nyack. They are closer than either of the two places in Connecticut and they are very respected. They did a great job PPIing my car on its near sale in February. That sale fell through having to do with reasons unrelated to the PPI and the car is still available for another month or so before it goes in on trade for my GT3 that is finishing production as we speak. Personally, I believe my car to be much nicer than the very basic tan interior one that Hunting Ridge has.
For what it is worth, the owner of Hunting Ridge motors is seems like a nice, reasonable guy from my dealings with him a few years ago when his cars were still in Bedford.
Rob, I take it from your recommendation of Dan Jacobs and Jim Newton that you are a CVR member , correct?
Another option for PPI from an independent would be Deman Motorsports in Nyack. They are closer than either of the two places in Connecticut and they are very respected. They did a great job PPIing my car on its near sale in February. That sale fell through having to do with reasons unrelated to the PPI and the car is still available for another month or so before it goes in on trade for my GT3 that is finishing production as we speak. Personally, I believe my car to be much nicer than the very basic tan interior one that Hunting Ridge has.
For what it is worth, the owner of Hunting Ridge motors is seems like a nice, reasonable guy from my dealings with him a few years ago when his cars were still in Bedford.
Rob, I take it from your recommendation of Dan Jacobs and Jim Newton that you are a CVR member , correct?