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This is the first turbo model Porsche I've ever worked on and the learning curve on this one is fairlry steep. Changing the timing cover gaskets on my 96 TT. Got the L side done, no problem. The right side, however, problem. There's a brakcet that holds the a/c pump and houses the oil pump for the turbos (#22 in the pix) . This bracket is covering up the top left screw in the timing chain cover. Does that bracket need to be removed to get at last bolt? Is there a work around for that last bolt? I can't see a way to get at it. Maybe someone in the group has a work-around.
Thanks for the info. I was hoping I could just loosen the bracket and have enough room to access the bolt. I guess if I have to remove it, I will. I haven't looked but hoping I don't need a puller to get the crankshaft pulley off.
PET parts list says it's a scavenger pump for the turbos. Is there an actual mechanical pump in there or does the oil just drain by engine oil pump pressure? Just wondering.
You need a special tool (you can make one, it's not hard) to hold the pulley still while undoing and retorquing the pulley (especially the retorque). When removing the covers, some of the studs will unscrew from the case and come out - I usually undo the nut in a soft jaw to make a clean stud and rethread them back into the case with red loctite. I avoid using the stud as a bolt since it would need to twist inside the rubber donut seal which is not the design, since the rubber donut is supposed to squeeze down on the smooth part of the stud when the cup washer presses on it via tightening up the nut. The torque is only 7 ft-lbs, get a proper torque wrench that goes that low - remember a mechanical torque wrench's accuracy is the best between 20% and 80% of its rated range.
I was able to get the right timing chain cover gasket replaced. I removed the a/c compressor and set it off to the side. I removed the turbo oil pipes and unbolted the bracket/turbo scavenger pump. It slid back far enough on the lower studs for me to access the last bolt on the right timing chain cover. As with the lower valve covers, someone has been in there before. The gaskets had some gasket sealer on them. It looked like red Permatex gasket sealer but it dried and brittle. I removed all of that dried gasket material and reinstalled the new gaskets.
The last thing on the agenda is to start the engine up and let it run for 20 or 30 minutes to see if there are any leaks. That comes after I finish replacing the spark plugs....but that's another can of worms.
JC 96 TT
Originally Posted by Mike J
You need a special tool (you can make one, it's not hard) to hold the pulley still while undoing and retorquing the pulley (especially the retorque). When removing the covers, some of the studs will unscrew from the case and come out - I usually undo the nut in a soft jaw to make a clean stud and rethread them back into the case with red loctite. I avoid using the stud as a bolt since it would need to twist inside the rubber donut seal which is not the design, since the rubber donut is supposed to squeeze down on the smooth part of the stud when the cup washer presses on it via tightening up the nut. The torque is only 7 ft-lbs, get a proper torque wrench that goes that low - remember a mechanical torque wrench's accuracy is the best between 20% and 80% of its rated range.
06-17-2022, 04:02 PM
right side timing chain cover
