DJN

Thanks for your help Sir!

The bearing fit outer snugly in position in the wheel carrier....nicely into its seat and the retainer fit well over the bearings flush fit.

The "sloppiness" I referred to was addressed by Steve W. who said effectively that inside bearing races need to be torqued together (pressed between the Hub/ABS washer and the hub itself). Torquing the through-going bolt and nut firms everything and no play is experienced inside the bearing. I assume the two inner halves need to be held/torqued together.

I hope that explains what I mean.

Have a great weekend.
Doug N

DJN

Well.....drum roll please ....

Looks like my 3/4" drive torque wrench was the culprit.

I re-torqued with my freshly calibrated wrench.....checked bearing feel (everything perfect!), and headed to the track. I did not change to the "new" style nut with black floating washer.

I brought my BIG daddy torque wrench along for the ride to the track for the day, so I could check torque between sessions as well as visual my paint marks. The nut stayed torqued, their was no re-torqueing needed.

I will keep a special eye on it though for the next month and add the left front wheel hub nut to my full track check listing routine.

Time to have a beer and relax, a little.

Cheers
Doug N

AOW162435

Doug,
Excellent news and reminds me that I should have my crop of torque wrenches calibrated.

That said, I've always been of the impression that a correct torque value is only realized as the fastener is rotated into position. In other words, using a torque wrench to check lug nuts after a tire shop slammed them on with an impact gun is useless.

I'm a fan of using a paint marker to keep an eye on fasteners that I've torqued (and that may loosen for one reason or another).



Andreas

trophy

Great news Doug, Glad the car is ready for this weekend's trackstraviganza!!! Wish I was joining you.

95_993

Pant marker is sound advice. I mark my adjustable rear lower control arms, axle nuts, and inner CV joint bolts.

I should have my wrenches calibrated as well. Where do you typically go to have them calibrated?

P-daddy

He sends them to Harbor Freight.

AOW162435

If you listen carefully, you'll hear the increasing din of eight Pratt & Whitney TF33-P-3/103 turbofan engines...




Andreas

nine9six

I sit corrected...
That wrench must have been significantly off!

P-daddy

Scanning the sky for incoming...

DJN

The accredited technician found the torque wrench to be about 25-28ftlbs low when actuated fully at a dialed to 340ftlbs. Partial "clicks" yielded lower results.

However, the cause could also have been due to the difficult job of holding the 3ft breaker bar to lock the bolt end, using the 3.5 ft torque wrench on the nut end on my own. It is very likely I did not get a full "click" while doing garage gymnastics without a buddy to help. Although, I was confident I had a decent "click-click"

Second time round with the freshly calibrated torque wrench, things were much easier, with a buddy to help. Lessons learned!


Thanks for your help everyone!


Now, where are these bombers coming from? ......

pp000830

Yes, I agree, this is why I loosen and then retorque wheel nuts using my own wrench whenever one of our cars has had its wheels removed by a shop for any reason. I am told torque wrenches are most accurate and repeatable if the value desired is near the upper range of the wrench, so sizing the wrench for the job is important.

Paint marking items that thread in is a great idea.

Andy