JamesP

Yes I realise this topic has been done to death, however, I have spent plenty of time researching and reading the many threads on here and other places. What I would like to do is get confirmation that what I intend to buy is one, all compatible, two, not NLA, three, possible better alternatives and four, other "while I'm in there" advice.

Apologies for the length. I've tried to put what I thought were the more useful things all in one place to hopefully make it easier for people doing similar research.

My proposed solution is probably summed up best by Bill V in one of the threads.

Background

I bought my 993 Carrera just on a year ago in Hawaii with 102K miles and only drove it for a few days there. PPI indicated the struts were shot, along with other suspension issues. I was not happy with the US ride height, nor the body roll of a car with what services records indicate to be original suspension. Car was stored then transported to LA in May. I had a reputable shop look over the car with the instructions to let me know what needed to be done to drive it back to Florida. Plus install the KW V3 coilovers and recommended suspension improvements. KW units were a group buy with expectation of having them installed in LA. Unfortunately the car sat around until after my deadline and finally a report for $11K of work. A month wasted... Fluids and filters were changed and I grabbed the car and started the drive home. The ride quality was a bit ordinary, however, the 8000 mile, 22 state road trip was a blast and problem free. Car then pretty much sat for 4-5 month as other things took priority.

I had a 993 C4S back in Australia and have a 997.2 GT3 here, so I am familiar with cars with lower than normal ride height. No, I'm not preoccupied with ride height, however, I do like a bit of form in addition to function. Yes it may see track time in the future although at the moment perhaps agressive street use might work better. NVH is not a big issue, within reasonable levels.

Research

993 PET (UPD 248 dated 24/1/2010)
Bentley's Porsche 911 Carrera Service Manual 1995-1998
Sunset Porsche Parts (mainly for replacement part numbers)
Another Suspension Q thread
Recommended modifications for 993's
Elephant Sport Bushings - Rear Suspension
Various "stages" of suspension modification
To Walrod or not to Walrod? That is the question
Rear control arms ball joints? Keep or replace?
Plus others.

Propsed Solution

Front - Phase 1

993-341-049-06 (replaces 993-341-049-02) - Ball Joint x 2
993-341-157-81 - Upright RS Left
993-341-158-81 - Upright RS Right
993-347-031-81 - Tie Rod RS x 2
Elephant Racing Control Arm Reconditioning with sport bushings
993-606-405-00 - Speed Sensor x 2 - think I read these should be replaced when doing this type of work. Correct?
999-053-041-04 (replaces 999-053-041-02) - Wheel Bearings x 2 - makes sense if putting in new uprights. Correct?

Front - Phase 2

993-343-707-81 - Anti Roll Bar RS
964-343-792-06 - Anti Roll Bar Bushings RS x 2
993-343-069-82 (replaces 993-343-069-80) - Drop Link RS Left
993-343-070-82 (replaces 993-343-070-80) - Drop Link RS Right

Tarett RS Drop Links (993C2FDLNK-R) - better choice than OEM?

Rear - Phase 1

993-331-045-80 - KT Control Arm RS
993-331-047-03 - Upper Camber Control Arm RS
993-331-043-01 - Lower Rear Toe Link
993-331-041-81 - Lower Rear Wishbone RS Left
993-331-042-81 - Lower Rear Wishbone RS Right
Elephant Racing Subframe Reconditioning with sport bushings
993-606-405-00 - Speed Sensor x 2 - think I read these should be replaced when doing this type of work. Correct?
993-053-055-02 (replaces 999-053-050-00) - Haven't been able to check condition and not highlighted in PPI. Necessary based on age/environment?

Rear - Phase 2

993-333-707-81 - Anti Roll Bar RS
477-411-313-C - Anti Roll Bar Bushings RS
993-333-073-82 - Drop Links RS

Tarett RS Drop Links (993C2FDLNK-R) - better choice than OEM?

I have read there is/used to be an issue with KW coilovers and the RS droplinks. Is this still the case? Best solution?

Other Considerations

I obviously haven't bothered with the smaller items including brackets, nuts, bolts, screws etc and as the car has lived in Florida, Hawaii and now back in Florida, I expect to replace where necessary.

What I am concerned about and couldn't find a lot about, is shock mounts/camber plates. Recommendations if I can't retain stock ones?

What else have I missed, need to consider, pitfalls to be aware of?

Thanks!

Bill Verburg

This isn't an RS specific part. The same link was used on all versions.

RS specific parts will end in .80 or .81

I'd stick w/ RS drop links f/r, The Tarrett rears I've seen are too long and need to be cut down, maybe they have fixed that, I don't know & I haven't seen frot versions.

Looks like a decent plan, for best results you will want top run ~120mm f & 103mm r +/-

for shock mounts there are several ways to go Elephant & Rennline(these are specificly said to work w/ KW & Bilstein) have some nice weather sealed ones, or go old school w/ Mode or ERP

JamesP

Thanks Bill. Appreciate the input here and also all the previous threads that helped me arrive at this set up.

Paul M

RS uprights have been on backorder from Porsche since last June, with no ETA of when they may become available again.

Martin S.

...that the street ride you have experienced, will be long gone when you accomplish your project. The monoballs will transmit noise (Maybe vibration) into the cabin. At least this has been my personal experience.

Your planned phases...why not do it all at once? The anti-roll bars are cheap..see www.carnewal.com aka Gert. Gert may have a line on RS wheel carriers and tie rods.

The eternal dilemma: There are street cars and their are track cars. The mods you are contemplating are very sporty, dare I say it, track mods. Track cars really don't make comfortable street cars, and visa versa.

Where am I coming from? I have done most of the mods that Bill Verberg has done to his car, in one form or another (See enclosed pdf). Whereas he utilized all factory parts, I went to ERP for the rear suspension...but did install RS wheel carriers, obtained form Sunset Imports, Beaverton OR.

My car is street (Read emissions) legal in CA. I even had a mild alignment done as a street track compromise: (Front camber -1.6, Rear camber, -1.4). The car is good on the track, but a little short of excellent, and IMHO, it is the result of me trying to have the best of both worlds, a street/track hybrid.

My personal conclusion: The mild alignment has got to go. I want the best possible track performance, and mind you I only do HPDE events. For the present, I am going back to Hoosier R7 tires from my present Nitto NT-01 tires, and I have a set of lightly used slicks I will be burning up (If I can get them stuffed into the wheel wells). My new camber specs will be -3.0 front, and -2.5 rear. Hoosiers like lots of negative camber. End result, my car will be optimized for the track but will be close to useless on the street for anything more than short trips. The increased negative camber will eat tires.

I have considered going back to sporty stock...PSS10s, extracting the monoballs, reinstalling the stock carpets, but that will have to wait. When I retire from HPDE, that's when I'll convert to sporty stock.

sacman

The Upright RS Left and Right is cheapest at Sunset Porsche
http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe...he/99334115881

Paul M

Nope. He can't get the uprights, until Porsche start making them again.

Sunset is very competitive on price. However, just because a price is quoted on the website, doesn't mean that the parts are available...

There are a few left side uprights available out there, but no right side uprights.

Andy Hodapp

You might want to go with adjustable rear lower toe links if you are lowering the car. I believe with the stock links you will not be able to adjust out the toe in created by lowering the car. Someone with more experience can tell me if I'm wrong.

Paul M

The OEM rear RS droplinks are too short for KW V3 when used with RS sways. The droplink connection on the V3 is a welded bracket that cannot be adjusted. The RS links are approximately 136mm long. The measurement from the droplink bracket on the V3 to get the RS sway bar attachment below the toe-link is approximately 185mm. The Tarret rear adjustable droplinks will work, but you need the longer curved links, not the short one's in your link.

Bill Verburg

I've been able to use stock rear toe rod down to extremely low ride heights, well below RS height.

The turnbuckle mono-ball toe rods(available from Tarett, Rennline) are for increased precision in track use and for better control of the adjustment via eccentric locks. If you don't care about he latter you can use mono-ball bushes in the stock toe arms.

JamesP

Ah, not what I wanted to hear. Guess I could go with the existing uprights and accept I will need to double up on new tie rods if/when the uprights become available.

Appreciate your input. Luckily we all have differing levels of what we consider comfortable. I know the proposed setup is quite extreme for a street car. I did have the GT3 as my only car for about three years and having read so many people criticise that car as unsuitable for the street (too low, heavy clutch, notchy shifter, too noisy, too rough) I've come to realise I am a lot different to many people over here, in what I like in a car.

As for the phases, it's not money driven. More like just a logical way I can potentially split the work up without having to go back and remove newly installed parts. It may happen altogether. I have a lot of other things in motion for the car and may need to fit in with other schedules.

Some rather large boxes are hopefully over the Atlantic as we speak from Carnewal. Can't beat the prices!

Thanks everyone else. A bit more to research to be done. As for the prices and perceived availability, it's a pity the Revolution Parts database, which most seem to use, doesn't indicate if the parts are even available n a reasonable timeframe.

JB 911

Revolution Parts database

MarinS4

Many of us OG's learned that lesson the hard way!

These days I prefer to set my weekend cars up for good street performance and keep things comfy. Whatever that yeilds on the track so be it. It's gonna be more capable than it was stock. Why adjust for the 1% of the intended usage anyway. I focus on the other 99%.

Local roads play a huge roll too. I am pretty fortunate here in NorCal. Things are pretty smooth! My former city of Boston is something entirely different! James I think your mode list looks good for the street (South Florida anyway) with the exception of the mono ball hat/camber plates. New stock rubber would be a better choice. Heck I wish someone would make this in harder RS rubber compound.

I am also fortunate enough to have a dedicated track car. While it's just a Miata it does run similar times to 997 cup cars for a fraction of the cost.

JamesP

Thanks. The camber plates are something I am looking into a bit more and as you said, it seems more like an all or nothing approach at the moment.

South Florida has its moments. The roads might be reasonably smooth with the trade off being a tad boring... Having been to Boston I agree, not a fun time in a low, stiff car.

MarinS4

I am in south Florida now so I know what you mean. Traveling between Miami, Davie and Vero Beach things are pretty flat and boring.

I now realize how spoiled I am driving through west Marin. I need to get some GoPro footage to share. Its spectacular!