Help choosing a DE tire?
01-15-2017, 10:04 PM
#16
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street tyres for DE?
AD08R = my first choice
but....................
trying a set pf Re-71s in two weeks.
That might change my mind
<grin>
Only other choice IMO = Dunlop Direzzas.
Have fun
Next step might be NT01S
AD08R = my first choice
but....................
trying a set pf Re-71s in two weeks.
That might change my mind
<grin>
Only other choice IMO = Dunlop Direzzas.
Have fun
Next step might be NT01S
01-15-2017, 10:06 PM
#17
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LexVan poses an excellent question: Driving or towing? If you're driving to and from, then you'll need a tire that will do the job in the wet or dry. Same goes for on track. The RE71R, at full depth, will do the job but e9stibi gives good advice. I'd rather see you chew up a set of Hankook V12 EVO's for a season before "graduating" to the RE71R's.
Hankooky Rs-3 are MUCH better than V12s for dry weather grip
01-15-2017, 11:55 PM
#19
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any of the 993 s cars will under steer, it's because of rear track width and rear wheel/tie width relative to the front.
to alleviate it
bolt on/ easy changes
play w/ tire pressures higher in front lower in back but only to a point beyond that you loose grip
use wider front wheels and tires, 8.5 for the wheel and 245/ for the tires, you will need to use as short a front as possible, 245/35 x18 is best, while doing that keep the rear width down 265/35 x18 would be good w/ the 245/35 front
add adjustable sways, RS front and rear would be nice, crank up the rear and ease off the front
more camber in front less in back, again to a point
more expensive and intrusive
change the suspension , stiffer springs in back relative to front, softer shocks settings in front stiffer in back
add front flares and use 9" front wheels 245 or even 255 tires to balance 285 rears
Street tires do tend to give you more warning than track tires
to alleviate it
bolt on/ easy changes
play w/ tire pressures higher in front lower in back but only to a point beyond that you loose grip
use wider front wheels and tires, 8.5 for the wheel and 245/ for the tires, you will need to use as short a front as possible, 245/35 x18 is best, while doing that keep the rear width down 265/35 x18 would be good w/ the 245/35 front
add adjustable sways, RS front and rear would be nice, crank up the rear and ease off the front
more camber in front less in back, again to a point
more expensive and intrusive
change the suspension , stiffer springs in back relative to front, softer shocks settings in front stiffer in back
add front flares and use 9" front wheels 245 or even 255 tires to balance 285 rears
Street tires do tend to give you more warning than track tires
I'm a little apprehensive about causing rubbing with a 245f, so I like the idea of dialing back the rears to say 275 to keep 235's up front. Also, I bought the 996 Turbo wheels specifically for this, so the 8" f and 11" rears will have to make do.
Having said that, I'm pretty sure the PO was running 245's up front for DE's on a set of forged track wheels.
And for interests sake, I bought the car with RH 3.6's in 18x9f and 18x11.5r with no rubbing at RS height. Those has 225f (a bit stretched) and 295's in back. But I haven't yet done an alignment, so I don't know if that's a good indicator of what rubs and what doesn't.
01-16-2017, 12:07 AM
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For DE you want something durable & predictable that won't overheat and get greasy like a typical street tire. The RE71's are great but will wear much faster than the Yoko AD08 or Nitto NT-01. All of these have a similar, precise feel thanks to fairly stiff sidewalls and would be good choices.
01-16-2017, 12:08 AM
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01-16-2017, 12:09 AM
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The Yoko AD08R is NOT an R compound tire. It's just an updated version of the AD08 from a few years ago.
01-16-2017, 12:16 AM
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Did you change anything else on the suspension when the PSS9's went on?
If your at RS height, and do not have the RS wheel carrier, your going to have bump steer, and depending on the track (or road) enough to make driving more difficult. If you want to stay at RS height I would advise getting the RS wheel carrier installed.
If the rest of the suspension is original, you should look at getting new rubber and/or arms, the spherical ends could be worn done as well. You should check the motor mounts as well.
If your at RS height, and do not have the RS wheel carrier, your going to have bump steer, and depending on the track (or road) enough to make driving more difficult. If you want to stay at RS height I would advise getting the RS wheel carrier installed.
If the rest of the suspension is original, you should look at getting new rubber and/or arms, the spherical ends could be worn done as well. You should check the motor mounts as well.
I installed RS motor mounts last summer, and that seems to have fixed some of the squirrelliness I was experiencing. But I still don't think my suspension is perfectly dialled in. Maybe bump steer or worn parts is the issue?
01-16-2017, 12:37 AM
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I really enjoyed learning to drive on the track with street tires in my nearly stock 993. Compared to other beginners that started with me, I feel my lower-performance tires and understeer (not to mention relatively low HP, high weight, and no driver aids) forced me to learn a higher degree of balance and car control than my peers in order to keep up with traffic as we moved up in run groups.
After trying Michelins and Hankooks, I've settled on the Sumitomos HTRZ3s (in stock sizes) because they are dirt cheap, predictable wet or dry, slide quite a bit, and squeal like hell as they approach the limit. To me, they're the perfect "training wheel" tire. There's nothing like pushing the back tires to join the fronts in a loud squeal as you control that perfectly balanced 4 wheel drift for the first time.
Also, I think the car's stock tendency to understeer has helped me learn trail braking (and all the other ways get the front wheels to grip) just a bit better than some of the other guys with "better" tires and "faster" cars. I am a bit jealous of the guys that can botch every other corner and still keep up though. They usually have 350hp+ and PDKs
After trying Michelins and Hankooks, I've settled on the Sumitomos HTRZ3s (in stock sizes) because they are dirt cheap, predictable wet or dry, slide quite a bit, and squeal like hell as they approach the limit. To me, they're the perfect "training wheel" tire. There's nothing like pushing the back tires to join the fronts in a loud squeal as you control that perfectly balanced 4 wheel drift for the first time.
Also, I think the car's stock tendency to understeer has helped me learn trail braking (and all the other ways get the front wheels to grip) just a bit better than some of the other guys with "better" tires and "faster" cars. I am a bit jealous of the guys that can botch every other corner and still keep up though. They usually have 350hp+ and PDKs
My goal is not to be the fastest one on the track. In fact, at this stage, that means nothing to me at all. I really just want to explore/enjoy the capabilities and limits of my 993, and feel confident running around my home track with some speed. Passing isn't even important - I think I'd be just as happy running on an empty track.
I think of some of the karting sessions I've had in the past, and how fun it was to learn where I could push it or slide it in different parts of the track. Obviously much lower stakes than in my 993, but my dream is to find that level of control and confidence in my 911.
01-16-2017, 12:41 AM
#25
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Neither AD08, nor RE-71R are R-compound (the R-comp tires usually run 100 and below on wear ratings, though it means next to nothing in reality). The good thing is that they both work OK when cool. R-comps, generally, don't, in comparison.
01-16-2017, 04:10 PM
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Thanks everyone for your inputs. Some great info to consider!
The plot thickens...
I was reasearching 275/30 tires for the rear, and it turns out there's no such thing
275/35's are about 3.5% too big, which will probably make the gearing feel worse. Or, 265/35's as Bill V mentioned don't recommend 11" wheel widths (my 996 TT wheels).
Thoughts on 265/35 vs 275/35 vs 285/30 here?
The plot thickens...
I was reasearching 275/30 tires for the rear, and it turns out there's no such thing
275/35's are about 3.5% too big, which will probably make the gearing feel worse. Or, 265/35's as Bill V mentioned don't recommend 11" wheel widths (my 996 TT wheels).
Thoughts on 265/35 vs 275/35 vs 285/30 here?
01-16-2017, 04:24 PM
#27
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An additional thought. With 4WD cars, I'd look into the max difference allowed between the front and rear tire height/circumference. Personally, I have no idea, but I'm sure Porsche does specify some max value there.
01-16-2017, 05:34 PM
#28
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http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-...0R18/285-30R18
While I have never seen it in writing, I assume AWD system will not work properly if the rear tires are larger than the front. The nature of the viscus differential requires the rear tires to spin faster than the front in order to transfer power from rear to front.
01-16-2017, 06:06 PM
#29
01-16-2017, 08:26 PM
#30
Thanks everyone for your inputs. Some great info to consider!
The plot thickens...
I was reasearching 275/30 tires for the rear, and it turns out there's no such thing
275/35's are about 3.5% too big, which will probably make the gearing feel worse. Or, 265/35's as Bill V mentioned don't recommend 11" wheel widths (my 996 TT wheels).
Thoughts on 265/35 vs 275/35 vs 285/30 here?
The plot thickens...
I was reasearching 275/30 tires for the rear, and it turns out there's no such thing
275/35's are about 3.5% too big, which will probably make the gearing feel worse. Or, 265/35's as Bill V mentioned don't recommend 11" wheel widths (my 996 TT wheels).
Thoughts on 265/35 vs 275/35 vs 285/30 here?
next a set of RS adjustable sways