Can you refinish a Dual mass flywheel...?
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Don't need a clutch yet but its always wise to prepare....
I was in the local pcar dealer the other day and was told when the clutch goes on a 993, its better to replace the flywheel/disk/pressure plate as a unit. The rational is that the flywheel cannot be turned and putting a new disk in will just thrash that disk in short order.
It sounds like a crock to me but I thought I would ask the list. If I have to go to that extreme then I might as well replace it with a RS clutch kit and avoid the complexities of the dual mass. And I bet you can resurface the RS one once as well.
Oh, the PO had the clutch done at 65,000KM (yes, KM) and did the flywheel/disk/pressure plate.
Any opinions?
Cheers,
Mike
I was in the local pcar dealer the other day and was told when the clutch goes on a 993, its better to replace the flywheel/disk/pressure plate as a unit. The rational is that the flywheel cannot be turned and putting a new disk in will just thrash that disk in short order.
It sounds like a crock to me but I thought I would ask the list. If I have to go to that extreme then I might as well replace it with a RS clutch kit and avoid the complexities of the dual mass. And I bet you can resurface the RS one once as well.
Oh, the PO had the clutch done at 65,000KM (yes, KM) and did the flywheel/disk/pressure plate.
Any opinions?
Cheers,
Mike
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Hi Mike,
Sounds like a crock to me, also. I do understand that a DMF cannot be resurfaced (it's balance/mass being critical), but the shop manual clearly states:
"When repairing the clutch, replace only those components that are faulty and avoid replacing the double-mass flywheel if this is still fully operative."
(bolded text per the shop manual)
With respect to "replace only those components that are faulty," I personally (and probably yourself, as well) always replace the disc, pressure plate and throw-out bearing, even if one or more components looks fine. Of course, these are relatively cheap components (and are included in a kit), not $800-$1,000 like a DMF.
The LUK DMF currently in my car has seen two clutch jobs (the second clutch job made necessary by a shop that failed to lube/seal the input shaft = sticking in gear), and has some 68k miles on it. No flywheel problems, clutch works wonderfully
. That said, considering that my car has a (supposedly) idle-problem resistant '97 engine, I'll likely go LWF when/if I need a clutch next. Then again, the DMF is also supposed to minimize transmission of vibrations to the crankshaft, and I've talked to a (very) few people that think a LWF may decrease engine longevity. Don't know quite what to make of this concept.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Sounds like a crock to me, also. I do understand that a DMF cannot be resurfaced (it's balance/mass being critical), but the shop manual clearly states:
"When repairing the clutch, replace only those components that are faulty and avoid replacing the double-mass flywheel if this is still fully operative."
(bolded text per the shop manual)
With respect to "replace only those components that are faulty," I personally (and probably yourself, as well) always replace the disc, pressure plate and throw-out bearing, even if one or more components looks fine. Of course, these are relatively cheap components (and are included in a kit), not $800-$1,000 like a DMF.
The LUK DMF currently in my car has seen two clutch jobs (the second clutch job made necessary by a shop that failed to lube/seal the input shaft = sticking in gear), and has some 68k miles on it. No flywheel problems, clutch works wonderfully
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />