Let me get this straight about putting my car on jack stands
#1
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Let me get this straight about putting my car on jack stands
I've read and re-read the instructions about jacking up the car on Robin's site. But I'm still a bit nervous about getting my car up on jack stands. I want to understand what will be happening.
Using the right rear jack point, I jack up the car, which raises both right side wheels. When I can, I place the first jack stand under the right front jack point and then lower my jack and the car settles onto the stand. Does the right rear wheel go back onto the ground and the left front raise up? It seems like the car is going to be twisted or torqued just sitting on one stand.
Then I use the opposite side (left) rear jack point, jack up the car. If the left front wheel wasn't in the air, I assume it will be as soon as I start jacking and the right rear will come back to earth. OK, so now I have the left side in the air, the right front in the air and the only thing on the ground is the right rear tire?
I place the second jack stand under the front jack point, lower the car and now I can get the jack under the rear of the car to jack it up by the engine.
Is this about how it goes? I'm worried the car is going to fall off the first stand when I jack up the other side. Not going to happen?
Any hand holding would be appreciated.
Greg H.
Using the right rear jack point, I jack up the car, which raises both right side wheels. When I can, I place the first jack stand under the right front jack point and then lower my jack and the car settles onto the stand. Does the right rear wheel go back onto the ground and the left front raise up? It seems like the car is going to be twisted or torqued just sitting on one stand.
Then I use the opposite side (left) rear jack point, jack up the car. If the left front wheel wasn't in the air, I assume it will be as soon as I start jacking and the right rear will come back to earth. OK, so now I have the left side in the air, the right front in the air and the only thing on the ground is the right rear tire?
I place the second jack stand under the front jack point, lower the car and now I can get the jack under the rear of the car to jack it up by the engine.
Is this about how it goes? I'm worried the car is going to fall off the first stand when I jack up the other side. Not going to happen?
Any hand holding would be appreciated.
Greg H.
Last edited by Greg H.; 10-14-2003 at 01:00 PM.
#2
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I typically jack the rear first under the engine and place both left and right stands under their respective jacking pads. Then jack up the front and repeat.
Car is stable at that point. Go slow and it will be easy. BTW, I use a rubber padded piece on my floor jack instead of the typical steel rotating pad. I think I bought it from Eastwood company.
Car is stable at that point. Go slow and it will be easy. BTW, I use a rubber padded piece on my floor jack instead of the typical steel rotating pad. I think I bought it from Eastwood company.
#3
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Hi Greg,
Know exactly what you're talking about - had the same fears first time I did this. Rest assured, you are doing (and thinking) everything right.
When raising the fronts, I also place a piece of wood under each rear wheels, which helps me raise the rear (I raise from the engine case / rear engine tray removed) I have ROW M030, and without this procedure, I don't have enough clearance for the rear floor jack position.
When setting the jack stands, especially the fronts, make sure the jacks are properly positioned on the car's jack points and the jacks are on a secure and flat concrete floor. Gently ease the car on each stand and make sure jacks are properly positioned.
Once you get everything up, consider what you'll use as a backup in case the jack stands fail (highly unlikely if you do everything correctly, but never a risk you should be willing to take). When I remove my wheels, I place them under the car, as well as keep the floor jack under the engine case area, but it's not actually bearing any of the car's load. This way if the jack stand fails, the car will land on the wheels and on the floor jack.
Also, I highly recommend purchasing jack stands rated to 6000lbs (3000lbs will work, but why compromise). Since our cars only weigh 3000lbs, 6000lbs rating is a nice buffer.
Lastly, go slowly and use common sense. First time I did it, after I raised the car, I left it like this for 24hrs and was relieved and gained confidence that nothing moved or fell. Silly, I know, but it worked for me.
Now I've done it enough times to feel safe and confident to do major DIY's, like full oil changes that require time fully under the car.
Good luck, be safe and once again, use common sense and don't do something that doesn't feel right - just come back and ask us and we'll walk you through it!
Know exactly what you're talking about - had the same fears first time I did this. Rest assured, you are doing (and thinking) everything right.
When raising the fronts, I also place a piece of wood under each rear wheels, which helps me raise the rear (I raise from the engine case / rear engine tray removed) I have ROW M030, and without this procedure, I don't have enough clearance for the rear floor jack position.
When setting the jack stands, especially the fronts, make sure the jacks are properly positioned on the car's jack points and the jacks are on a secure and flat concrete floor. Gently ease the car on each stand and make sure jacks are properly positioned.
Once you get everything up, consider what you'll use as a backup in case the jack stands fail (highly unlikely if you do everything correctly, but never a risk you should be willing to take). When I remove my wheels, I place them under the car, as well as keep the floor jack under the engine case area, but it's not actually bearing any of the car's load. This way if the jack stand fails, the car will land on the wheels and on the floor jack.
Also, I highly recommend purchasing jack stands rated to 6000lbs (3000lbs will work, but why compromise). Since our cars only weigh 3000lbs, 6000lbs rating is a nice buffer.
Lastly, go slowly and use common sense. First time I did it, after I raised the car, I left it like this for 24hrs and was relieved and gained confidence that nothing moved or fell. Silly, I know, but it worked for me.
Now I've done it enough times to feel safe and confident to do major DIY's, like full oil changes that require time fully under the car.
Good luck, be safe and once again, use common sense and don't do something that doesn't feel right - just come back and ask us and we'll walk you through it!
#4
Same question as Silver Bullet.
I have one bent jack point in the front (right), and no jack point at all on the drivers side front! I have jacked up and put stands below where the back of the lower A (?) connects to the frame (there is a set of hex bolts there) without any problems thus far.
When jacking the front I try to stay away from any of the moving suspension and the steering rack. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good front jack point?
Also,
I had my car on jackstands for replacing my steering rack. I took my car down using the crankcase (engine) to remove the rear jack stands. That same day, I had a broken motor mount and the support between the two motor mounts was broken. Anyone have problems jacking from the engine or was the timing sheer coincidence? Whatever it is, makes me nervous jacking under the engine.
I have one bent jack point in the front (right), and no jack point at all on the drivers side front! I have jacked up and put stands below where the back of the lower A (?) connects to the frame (there is a set of hex bolts there) without any problems thus far.
When jacking the front I try to stay away from any of the moving suspension and the steering rack. Does anyone have any suggestions on a good front jack point?
Also,
I had my car on jackstands for replacing my steering rack. I took my car down using the crankcase (engine) to remove the rear jack stands. That same day, I had a broken motor mount and the support between the two motor mounts was broken. Anyone have problems jacking from the engine or was the timing sheer coincidence? Whatever it is, makes me nervous jacking under the engine.
#5
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Greg-
Your procedure is exactly the one I follow. I put a hockey puck between the jack and the car. I'd like to find some thin wood or something to put between the jackstand and the car, since my jacking points are getting REALLY bent up.
Your procedure is exactly the one I follow. I put a hockey puck between the jack and the car. I'd like to find some thin wood or something to put between the jackstand and the car, since my jacking points are getting REALLY bent up.
#6
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I bent my passenger side jack point by jacking on the rear of that side and placing a jack stand under the front jack point. When I jacked the rear of the driver side to raise the driver front the passenger side jack point bent. I was using jack stands with the conventional top made to receive an axle. I wonder if a flat top jack stand would have prevented this. I am currently shopping for a midrise lift. Raising these cars is a PIA.
#7
Your Porsche comes fully equipped from the factory with a REALLY stiff chassis, so there is no problem raising it according to Robin's wisdom. I use the 4X4 trick under the rears as I have lowered suspension, plus one of those the jacking points under the engine. Enjoy.
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#8
Originally posted by staplcl
.... I took my car down using the crankcase (engine) to remove the rear jack stands. That same day, I had a broken motor mount and the support between the two motor mounts was broken. Anyone have problems jacking from the engine or was the timing sheer coincidence? Whatever it is, makes me nervous jacking under the engine....
.... I took my car down using the crankcase (engine) to remove the rear jack stands. That same day, I had a broken motor mount and the support between the two motor mounts was broken. Anyone have problems jacking from the engine or was the timing sheer coincidence? Whatever it is, makes me nervous jacking under the engine....
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Greg, your procedure is correct and will work. The important thing here is to get good equipment, a good jack and stands. I use the AC jackstands with flat rubber tops to prevent bending my jacking points, and their jack is great as well. If you have a lowered suspension, you will need to either use wood (about 2 inches thick) under the rear wheels so that you will be able to get the jack under the engine OR have a second jack that can be used on either of the rear jacking points after the fronts are up in the air. This is because the back of the car will be at an angle and too low to get the jack all the way under the car and in position.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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Originally posted by Silver Bullet
chris - Where can you jack up the front w/o using one of the front jack points as then you would be in the way of one of the stands?
chris - Where can you jack up the front w/o using one of the front jack points as then you would be in the way of one of the stands?
Like others have said, the tub is really stiff, so jacking one side is fine.
Hope this helps.