Kinematic Toe-Are these values correct
Here's where it hangs on the bolt heads. It actually works on the hex bolt heads, there was no need to replace with socket head bolts.image.jpeg
KT isn't rocket science. It is just a measure of the caster angle of the rear suspension,
increase the length of the KT arm and both caster and camber decrease, visually the wheel moves forward in the wheel well.
shorten the arm and the opposite happens
the effect of this is to change the toe gain w/ wheel travel, least toe gain is w/ least caster, this makes the rear react quickly, the car feels twitchy but the rear take a set quicker too.
most toe gain is w/ most caster, this makes the car react slowly and increases stability but makes the rear slow to take a set. This is comforting, user friendly and forgiving but slow, at a place like the Bus Stop at WGI the slow rear won't comfortably keep up w/ the rest of the car at speed.
Most track oriented drivers want the fastest rear that they are can live w/. So most are set up w/ a little bit of KT, ~2.5-3 on the Motorsports gauge,
increase the length of the KT arm and both caster and camber decrease, visually the wheel moves forward in the wheel well.
shorten the arm and the opposite happens
the effect of this is to change the toe gain w/ wheel travel, least toe gain is w/ least caster, this makes the rear react quickly, the car feels twitchy but the rear take a set quicker too.
most toe gain is w/ most caster, this makes the car react slowly and increases stability but makes the rear slow to take a set. This is comforting, user friendly and forgiving but slow, at a place like the Bus Stop at WGI the slow rear won't comfortably keep up w/ the rest of the car at speed.
Most track oriented drivers want the fastest rear that they are can live w/. So most are set up w/ a little bit of KT, ~2.5-3 on the Motorsports gauge,


