euge

I finally got around fixing the sunshade on my Targa and found that on the driver side, the plastic grab that is attached to the cable is broken.

I did get a new cable, but after taking things apart i don't see an apparent way of removing the broken one and replacing with the new.

Was wondering if anyone knows...

Grapeape

From pcarworkshop: "There are plastic Bow Guides that are bonded to the Sunblind cables that grab the blind and pull it back."*Do you have guides bonded to the end of the new cable?

euge

Yes, i do have plastic guides bonded.

Kika

Paging MGianzero or MikeJ

Grapeape

Euge, after reading your first post again, are you asking how to remove the entire existing cable?

mpruden

I wish I could help, but I've never had to remove a cable. I'll speculate:

Once everything attached to that cable is disconnected, you should be able to go back to the motor, remove the cable from the motor (maybe turning it manually) then slide the cable out of the rail completely. Of course, You'll have very little room to do this. The other caveat is that the sunblind's single motor drives both sides of the sunblind, so you may have to remove everything from both sides of the sunblind to get the cables to slide out freely.

Hoping Mr. Gianzero chimes in here with something better than my wild-***-guess.

euge

I think i found a way to insert the cable. There appears to be enough of an opening upfront where i can insert the cable.

But a new question arose, how do i disconnect the pullbow?

Also, i thought there is a way to disconnect the motor from the cables so the cable can move freely?

Grapeape

I can't find any how to do's on this one so this a good op to document. I think replacing both cables at the same time might be wise given age and stretching factors of the other cable. The rear of the cable, not the bonded end, feeds into a excess tube so it seems it can only be removed by moving it forward. How to free it from the drive gear? Upon reinstall how do you sync the cables so they pull evenly? Sorry I got more questions than answers but I see this task possibly in my future.

FlyingDutchman

Remove the motor (3 bolts) driving the cable, it is under rear window. You have to remove that cover and the covers for the roof mechanism left and right as well as the front cover where the sun blinds attach. Once the motor is removed you can pull out the cable from the rear fairly easy, putting a new one in is easy too.

Hope this helps.

euge

TargaTuur69,

Yep, i took the rear cover, unhooked the pullbow. I figured i need to unbolt the motor, but didn't get there yet.

All in all it all seems quite easy, i worried i'm missing something

mgianzero

I was reading this thread and just saw your comments, Kika.


Regarding the shade cables on the targa, they are MUCH, MUCH easier to replace than the cables for the glass window top. I've done both several times.

Yes, the cables for the shade come out from the FRONT of the tracks and not the back. There is a screw which keeps the cable from being pulled out. You simply take it out and pull the cable forward to completely remove. (After disconnecting from the pull bows and the pull the motor off in the back). That's the basic technique. There are a few other screws, etc. to disconnect as well I can talk you through if you need further help.

No, there's really no reason to replace BOTH shade cables as these cables hardly ever wear out since they do not really bare any weight or undergo any real undo stress. They really only need replacing if the plastic hook (which is epoxy bonded to the end of the cable) or the cable somehow got kinked (which is really hard to do).

Just PM me with picks and your questions and I can walk you through it.

Marc Gianzero

mgianzero

Yes, the shade motor (far rear motor on driver's side) will have to be pulled (3 bolts) to pull out the shade cables. But that's all you should have to touch on the back window shelf.

Actually, you don't need to (nor should you) remove the motors for the glass top cables. This is an unnecessary step and will cause your window top motors to possibly have to be resynchronized if they are moved in relation to each other.

I'm not sure what you saying about removing the cables from the rear. The shade cables are removed from the front. Only the glass top cables are removed from the rear and that is NOT an easy thing to do. Part of the tracks would have to be pulled out to make this happen.

euge

All right, i finished fixing the drive cables for the sunshade. Still need to put the trim back (being re-upholstered with real leather now) but the mechanics are all done.

Overall i would rate this project as quite simple.
1. Pop the center light out
2. Unscrew the sun visors
3. Slide the head peace out
4. Unbolt the rear seat belts
5. Remove the rear cover
6. Remove the plastic trim pieces from the ends of the side trim
7. Remove the jacket hooks from the B-pillars
8. Slide the side trim pieces about an inch backwards and remove
9. At this point i would recommend opening the roof about 1/3 to 1/2
10. Unscrew the tiny little screw that holds the plastic cover for the rear end of the knock-out lever. Must be done from above, through the roof opening
11. Move the rear end of the lever out of the cable
12. Unscrew the shade motor (3 bolts) and slightly move it away
13. Unscrew the limit screw that is right in front of the plastic loop on the end of the cable. Don't have to remove, just unscrew so the cable can be pulled forward.
14. Pull the cable out of the guide.

Re-assemble in reverse order.

Took me about a couple of hours, but i wasn't rushing and was just pretty careful.

I'll take some pictures and maybe write it up in a bit more detail.

gavonder

I might need to do this soon. This will be very helpful. Thanks.

Grapeape

I tackled this weekend replacing both sunshade cables, rails, knock outs, bearing brackets, and a few other dried out plastic pieces. After taking spending an hour or two reading the various posts and studying the movement, its not that difficult to work on. But I have one problem I cannot figure out and ran out of week-end time and patience.

The plastic bearing bracket #6 which attaches to the metal rail, does not stay locked into the mounted metal bearing bracket #2. I used a new friction ring for each side but the plastic bearing bracket still pops out with every other use.

From the sketch I assume the friction ring #5 is fitted to the metal bracket #2, then the plastic bearing bracket #6 with the rivet is pushed into the metal bracket. Does the friction ring go into the plastic bearing bracket first then to the metal bracket? I'm considering using a spring steel e-clip to secure it in place but fitting this to tightly might restrict the up/down movement needed during operation. Your thoughts and help appreciated.