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Looking good Glenn! When you re-mated the caliper halves, did you use anything to re-seal the faces, or just metal to metal? Also, what did you use for a torque spec for the bolts holding the halves together? I couldn’t find any info on splitting and re-mating the caliper halves
Hi Brian Yes this info is hard to find. I believe these bolts are a type of bolt that is torqued with an angle gauge and the bolt becomes stretched.
I went with 65lbs and used locktite 272 after cleaning the thread holes. When I split the halves they seamed clean, nothing but the original black on the surface. I didn’t use anything between the surfaces, just made sure the surfaces had no burrs
i tested each cylinder with air pressure to make sure the Centric seals were seated with the rise and fall of the piston
the gray gunk you see is the Optimoly hi temp mounting grease
Cheers
glenn
Lots of cleaning Pulling off the old bearing Testing
Last fall I notice this awful screeching sound the lasted about a second when I let off the gas. After looking up these symptoms on renn I figured it was my fan bearing.
when I had removed the alternator and gave the fan a few spins I could tell it was feeling heavy and died quickly. I installed the new one and Wow what a difference, this thing spun all day.
i decided to paint the fan red too but with a can (I’m happy with this)
here are a few pics ....again
ill be bleeding my brakes next and auntsy to get driving soon
After the red callipers are installed i changed my ride height to ROW After the powder coating Its surprising how much faster the car decelerates with the the new red colours applied Driving under the palm trees with my new reds After last summer i decided to change the ride height to ROW. To many pot holes Here is my jig, a bolt cut to measure
Today im getting a wheel alignment AND a 3M wrap but only bra, rear mirrors and rear wheel stone guards
Cheers
After setting the height to ROW i got a wheel alignment done at Exceed. The mechanic coming back from a test drive.
Everything feels really good and tight
I recently found that my rear blower fan was not working properly and found that one set of relay points was not make contact (corroded) this is the relay closest to the back left side. Contact 87 and 30 on relay. Remove the plastic cover and i used 600 wet dry folded with Electrosolve cleaning spray (no lube) and agitated until your ohm meter reads zero
My home made press for the bearing
I replace the fan bearing not long ago and something went wrong quickly. Shortly after i reassembled the fan the first time i looked at the motor and saw the alternator belt head shredded. So i put a new belt on Driving around for a few days i notice a pinging and rattle start to get louder. I thought this has to be my alternator because i just replaced the fan bearing so i took the alternator into a local shop with lots of experience in Bosch and had them rebuild it, new bearings and that rear bearing cap etc (names?)
Put it in and the same sounds as before. Reading on RL some of the other irritating sounds other guys have been getting about there fan noises. I checked for fan rubbing...no rubbing
I ordered a new fan hub bearing and no noise.
Either i got a bad bearing the first time OR the belt that broke some how made that bearing get to hot OR the belt was to tight, i dont no
the good news is everything is new again.
I posted 3 videos of the bad and new bearing installed
I hear a “whooo” sound from about 2k - 3k. It’s always been there so I thought it was just a normal air rush sound, but I’m starting to wonder if it’s bearing related. Glenn, your experiences are motivating me to look into it further - as soon as I get some time I want to bring the car by and get you to hear it and give me your opinion.
I hear a “whooo” sound from about 2k - 3k. It’s always been there so I thought it was just a normal air rush sound, but I’m starting to wonder if it’s bearing related. Glenn, your experiences are motivating me to look into it further - as soon as I get some time I want to bring the car by and get you to hear it and give me your opinion.
I recently installed the Superbright LED lights in the gauges. I got the warm ones. The circuit board contact gap is to wide, you have to pinch the contact wings closer together to snug the board before installing. I like this brighter look as aposed to the original bulb.
The lights seem to be warmer then this pic
PS. You can see I took the pic just before the oil gauge came up to rest half way
I’ve decided to go with Koni Active shocks with Row M030 springs. I feel this is best for my everyday driving with a few gusto spells. Gert at Carnewal was very helpful.
Last winter I rebuilt the front suspension with ER bushes sport, now I’m doing all rear control arms from FVD Germany.
wishbones A controls and Caster are sent back for reconditioning. All the rest are new.
here’s a few pics
I marked the eccentric lots before removing. Looks to me that the arms havent been replaced before but I could be wrong. The A control feel pretty sloppy and bushes looks old.
Also wondering what you think of replacing the side rubber mounts? Will it make a difference?
04-21-2019, 01:25 PM
