BrandonTR

I made a SAI flush video tell me what you think, thanks. http://youtu.be/Yfyxsd_CZ_w

Foxman

Helpful and informative video, thanks for taking the time to film and post.

Todynot

How many miles on the odometer? Did you have CEL on and did this resolve?

BrandonTR

Thanks Foxman!

BrandonTR

Thanks Todynot, there is 54k on the odo and I haven't even put her back together yet. I let it sit overnight to let the last of the solvent work it's magic. The CEL was on and Ill report back later today to see if this solved it.

Aaron 993C2

Great, bookmarked for future reference

RVanK

Helpful - thank you!

David A

Thanks for posting.

bjornebo

Thank you. This will be very helpful when I need to do this.

BrandonTR

Ok put everything back together, reset code. So far so good but the CEL has stayed of for several days before even when I did nothing so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

_snowbird_

Great video! Thanks for doing this

993-5150

I also finished up cleaning my SAI ports this past weekend, and can make some recommendations:

1 - get a 13mm swivel socket - this makes the nut under the sway bar accessible without having to move the sway bar:
2 - I took the passenger side muffler (stock) off to get to the top bolt to unhook the heat exchanger from the muffler (I did this before my 13mm swivel socket arrived, so this step may not be necessary)

3 - I used a Dremel tool with the bicycle break cable to drill out the holes. I tried with a cordless drill for a long time (on the driver's side). With the Dremel, at its lowest rpm, this took less than 30 seconds per cylinder. I also bought some cable sheathing from the bike shop, and that allowed me to better direct/control the cable while drilling.

4 - I had my car at a shop last year, and was talking about this process, and they did not want to do it. They wanted to do a top end, and said the port cleaning would start with 12 hours to remove the exhaust. I trust the shop, but I am not burning oil, and do not have to add oil between changes. I was able to pass emissions in NC last year by disconnecting the battery to clear codes, drive carefully for about 50 miles, then got the inspection. I think the CEL came on on my drive home from the inspection station .

This shop also gave me confidence about the possibility of exhaust studs breaking. They said that they did not have problems with the 993 engines in this respect. I was careful, and it was a little scary, but I had no problems. I am fairly sure this is the first time the heat exchangers had been removed from the car (103k miles).

Now, I need some clear weather to put some miles on the car and get the car inspected this year (my battery/code clear trick did not work before I cleaned the ports).

Greg

boman993

Great video! And I too, highly recommend the "Yellow Cap Garage" SAI cleaning kit from Pelican. The Hazet modified crow's foot is worth it alone, along with the air hose fitting that screws into the SAI valve spot. It makes the whole procedure a lot easier. I do not believe that you can remove the old, seized check valve as explained on p-car.com with a cold chisel. (At least it didn't work for me).

I'm about 4k miles after my SAI flush and the CEL hasn't returned. My plan is to do this procedure every 10K miles; along with a new check valve and new heat exchanger/exhaust hardware.

My bike brake cable drill out took a long time (couple of days), but I was trying to be super thorough and ensure that the last flush of the fluid was completely clear. I let it soak and walked away here and there to try to dissolve as much of the carbon build up as possible...

PelicanParts.com

Nice video, Brandon! Thanks for sharing.

Foxman

My check engine light is on due to clogged SAI ports, but the car passed inspection. The car has a long history of CEL for clogged SAI ports, and work receipts indicate that the car was flushed several times over the years. The prior owner went so far as to run brake lines to the exhaust to try and fool the computer. If I understand this all correctly (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...i-cel-faq.html), the system only operates for 1-2 minutes during cold starts and this is not a performance issue. I plan on dropping the engine this winter for a clutch replacement, but I don't see the need for a full top end at this juncture. Is there some other compelling reason to flush out the system other than passing inspection, or do I just leave electrical tape over the CEL and keep driving?