My SAI flush video
#16
Burning Brakes
My check engine light is on due to clogged SAI ports, but the car passed inspection. The car has a long history of CEL for clogged SAI ports, and work receipts indicate that the car was flushed several times over the years. The prior owner went so far as to run brake lines to the exhaust to try and fool the computer. If I understand this all correctly (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...i-cel-faq.html), the system only operates for 1-2 minutes during cold starts and this is not a performance issue. I plan on dropping the engine this winter for a clutch replacement, but I don't see the need for a full top end at this juncture. Is there some other compelling reason to flush out the system other than passing inspection, or do I just leave electrical tape over the CEL and keep driving?
#17
Drifting
On that one cylinder with all the carbon build up on the exhaust valve stem - is that due to the famous valveguide wear and oil seeping down the guide? If so, how bad can it get without warranting a top end rebuild? Is it multiple cylinders or just one getting much worse than that?
#18
On that one cylinder with all the carbon build up on the exhaust valve stem - is that due to the famous valveguide wear and oil seeping down the guide? If so, how bad can it get without warranting a top end rebuild? Is it multiple cylinders or just one getting much worse than that?
I would think oil consumption would be one clear indicator, but further investigation as to root cause culprit, would be in order...
Compression test, leakdown test, valve deflection check, would help pinpointing the usual suspect areas. Rings, valve guides, poor sealing/seating valves...
The prior owner went so far as to run brake lines to the exhaust to try and fool the computer.
#19
Rennlist Member
You make a good point. My focus, however, is more on the long term health and maintenance of the car, not merely passing a New Jersey inspection next month. Moreover to Iain's point below, if the SAI issue is caused by excessive valve guide wear, then flushing the SAI system may actually be masking the symptoms of a bigger problem. My mechanic suggests doing a whole top end as he believes the SAI issue stems from the valves and valve guides, but if the oil consumption is minimal I'm inclined to hold off doing this for a while as the car has only 65,000 miles.
#20
Rennlist Member
"The previous tech installed brake lines to deliver air to the exhaust to fool the SAI system test. This did not work and the SAI fault was the cause for the CEL being on..."
#21
I also finished up cleaning my SAI ports this past weekend, and can make some recommendations:
3 - I used a Dremel tool with the bicycle break cable to drill out the holes. I tried with a cordless drill for a long time (on the driver's side). With the Dremel, at its lowest rpm, this took less than 30 seconds per cylinder. I also bought some cable sheathing from the bike shop, and that allowed me to better direct/control the cable while drilling.
Greg
3 - I used a Dremel tool with the bicycle break cable to drill out the holes. I tried with a cordless drill for a long time (on the driver's side). With the Dremel, at its lowest rpm, this took less than 30 seconds per cylinder. I also bought some cable sheathing from the bike shop, and that allowed me to better direct/control the cable while drilling.
Greg
- Frank
#22
Frank,
The RPM of a dremel tool is so much higher than a drill. I am guessing that it is at least 10x what my drill could do. I was using the same brake cable with both tools.
Greg
The RPM of a dremel tool is so much higher than a drill. I am guessing that it is at least 10x what my drill could do. I was using the same brake cable with both tools.
Greg
#23
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Very informative post & thread. If one does not have a obdc code thrown is there any benefit to flushing out the system with techron and compressed air when replacing the check valve?
#25
The best stuff that would take it off (I used it to remove the same carbon deposit on the piston top) is Berryman B12 Chemtool. Nothing else!!!
Be careful, B12 chemtool will eat through your paint and plastics.
#26
So far no CEL. To answer a few questions in no order..
I mostly did it because I hate having the CEL on and I may be selling soon. I mean if I can unload this and throw in a few more $$ and get a low mileage 997 Turbo.. well thats tempting.
I used generic carb cleaner from wally world first and then Sea Foam.
I don't know the reason why the one exhaust valve was so much worse than the others. What cylinder number is that anyway? I was hoping someone with more knowledge than me would chime in on that.
I like the Dremel idea quite a bit, I was not able to get past the bend on the drivers side but I did get air and cleaner to come through though.
I did want to add that Im not burning oil. Like maybe 1/2 qt every 5000 miles so if that valve is leaking it's not leaking much. I did see some slight seeping from the crank case.
I mostly did it because I hate having the CEL on and I may be selling soon. I mean if I can unload this and throw in a few more $$ and get a low mileage 997 Turbo.. well thats tempting.
I used generic carb cleaner from wally world first and then Sea Foam.
I don't know the reason why the one exhaust valve was so much worse than the others. What cylinder number is that anyway? I was hoping someone with more knowledge than me would chime in on that.
I like the Dremel idea quite a bit, I was not able to get past the bend on the drivers side but I did get air and cleaner to come through though.
I did want to add that Im not burning oil. Like maybe 1/2 qt every 5000 miles so if that valve is leaking it's not leaking much. I did see some slight seeping from the crank case.
Last edited by BrandonTR; 12-04-2015 at 07:23 PM.