NYC993

What's the fun in that? I enjoyed adding various things and seeing the effect as I progressed. The most effective upgrade has been simply more track time. You'll see yourself where your car is lacking.

Martin S.

"The most effective upgrade has been simply more track time." That may be for most, but for me, the most effective way to improve was to incorporate a data logger onto my routine. AiM has a cheapie at $700 that comes with a full version of their Race Studio.

I use the MXL-2....very sweet, but not cheap when you add in sensors and installation. To rationalize the purchase, I wanted something to get me out of a performance plateau. Has it? Somewhat...but I need to take a deeper dive into the Race Studio software.

Seat time is very important too. With the AiM, you can have a demo lap(s) put down by a pro-driver, or? Next compare his laps to yours. This way you can visualize exactly in which track segment improvement is to be had.

PS I had been driving on the track with DE, TT, about 15 years and Racing (5 years), before I went to data logging.

NYC993

I'm personally not there...yet. I still have many things that need work without data.

jscott82

I'm not sure where everyone is at on the learning curve... While data is great, its really is one of those last 10ths kind of things...

For data to be helpful, you first need to be able to go out and run consistent lap times, only then can you know what is real and what is just noise. It took me a couple of years before I could be consistent enough to make measuring meaningful.

k722070

I'll take the flip side of jscott's coin and say as soon as someone is safe driving on the track they should have data. my definition of safe is dealing with and understanding traffic and sharing the track, so just beyond basic levels of de.
too many people waste time going around in circles thinking they'll just get better with time. its not until years later if at all someone explains proper braking or how to roll the car thru a corner.
give someone data and explain how the braking curve should look; show them how to plot a g-g diagram and they can see their mistakes and improve much earlier/faster.

Holger3.2

I agree that basic skills should be available before data logging comes in.

For the beginning and a long way, 'Harry's Laptimer' is an excellent tool and drains your valet just by max. 30 bucks. What you get out of it in relation to the price is amazing.

http://www.gps-laptimer.de/

Foxman

Before this thread goes too far astray, here's the current thinking for a suspension refresh for my C2S for 75% track/25% road use. I had no idea this would be such a slippery slope. The car already has a lowering kit in the rear with semi-solid side mounts. Thanks for all the feedback, and a huge thanks to Bill V:

KW Clubsport Kit http://www.kwsuspensions.com/product...kit-14816.html

Elephant Rubber bushings http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...erbushings.htm

Bump steer conversion package http://www.carnewal.com/products/P93...ersion-Package

RS Stabilizer Kit http://www.carnewal.com/products/P93...for-993-C4-C4S

Paddy

You should save yourself the time and money and just buy my car Foxman

Foxman

Damn, I just said the same thing to U72tp7 last night over a beer!

Found the link- that is one nice build! https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...995-993-a.html

Holger3.2

Coming back, or lets say closer to the original theme of the tread, you mentioned that you're looking for a 25/75 street/track ratio.
As we read here often about such approaches (some less, some more), and having recently put all my notes on a spreadsheet (not much else to do with temperatures here right now usually just short of 50C or 120F), an unexpected surprise came up. If someone would ask, i would say my street / track ratio would be 10/90 as i live less than a kilometer away from the Dxb Autodrome, and the trips to gas station and workshop are less than 10/20km roundtrip. Going to Abu Dhabi Yas circuit is about 100km one way, but i did half of the trips trailer the 993. NO other use of the car at all.
However, having clocked the last four years 12,560km on the odo, actual track distance was only 5,750km (about 55 hours actual driving time), which means (to my big surprise) that's just about 46% track use.
Initial conclusion: the often mentioned street/track ratios might often be more mental than real (except somebody only trailers). As the trip to the track or gas station is, at least for me, no fun (just house to pit lane 19 speed humps ... ) mental however, i thought its was mostly all track.
Important is this for e.g. tire live description, as it seams in reality, there is much more street wear involved... or the other way around the real wear coming from much less track km than expected, and therefore also other wear related items.
Not clear if this enlightenment is really important, but still interesting for sure.

Holger

Foxman

Holger,

You make a valid point. Just last night a friend insisted my car is 90% track and only 10% street because the car largely only leaves the garage for track events, AX, or trips to the shop. Yes from a miles perspective, to your point, I drive 180 miles back and forth to Palmer for only 80 miles of track time. Today I drove 50 miles to Fort Devens, and will drive 50 back home for a meager 12 miles or so of AX. But the car is purposed for track. And while the miles may swing more than 75/25, the most meaningful miles for me are the ones on the track.

Holger3.2

Can't agree more!

Interesting for me is here more the already described real ration and its effect on wear parts. Looking e.g. at the tires, my records show 2,500 to 3,300 km live cycle. Which is for sure not to much, but now getting the idea that, their main abuse (guess more than 70%*) was for sure at the track, they lasted in reality just about 1,500km for its main purpose (track), and considering their price, it makes driving them also on the street pretty costly**.

*) as I drive on roads very careful due to already above mentioned reasons.

**) despite all of this, they were worth every meter